Question about Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

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Follow up thanks for your reply. I checked the contacts to the timer and all are connected. my wife said that the washer has been having problems for some time -- prior to stopping completely recently, the washer would not go to the spin cycle until the lid is lifted, which causes it to cycle to rinse. wondering since it stopped completly if the timer was going bad, or perhaps the circuit board that attaches to the timer. is there any way to know, as i will try to order fairly expensive part if I can guess which one. thanks in advance.

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That's odd. the washer would not run in the spin cycle if the lid is lifted but in your case, it would run if you lift the lid.

check the lid also. it could have been damaged and the contacts were able to swap location or change status.

it should be close contacts when the lid is close and open when the lid is open. check the resistance.

tnx 4 using fixya,


Posted on Oct 21, 2008


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Maytag washer MAH4000AWW timer will not advance. Washer will operate if I manually advance timer. Have changed timer, followed Drive System diagnostic test, the wax motor and control board were replaced a...

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Nov 08, 2013 | Maytag Washing Machines


Water is not getting inside my washing machine.

If water is not getting into the machine, check the following:

To start cut power to the applianc3e for five minutes, this can fix a jammed timer control.

Check if the hot and cold water faucets are connected, and have good pressure.

If that does not work you may need to call a repairman to test the following:

The inlet valve must be tested by energizing it , testing valve solenoid, and reading voltages to identify a fault in wiring (contact).

If the inlet valve is fine when tested, worth having a look at the water level switch, if it is stuck on overfill position , it will prevent water from getting into the machine.

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on Mar 30, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Washer fills and agitates but wil not empty or spin. I tried to bypass the lid switch and still same problem. How do I check the timer.

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
OK first lets get back to the basics
First investigate these things fully
It doesn't drain dot_lineone.gif 1. Clogged drain line or water pump
Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).

2. Water Pump
If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for cracks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.

When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem: It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer. THERE IS NO REPAIR FOR THE TIMER

Aug 04, 2011 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

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Intermatic WH40 Timer switch doesn't work even with manual 'on'. It has worked fine for years and now no power comes out of the timer. Power is ok going in. We have another WH40 purchased at the same time...

Typically, there are no lubricants applied to contacts - as they attract dust & dirt. Dust and dirt are poor conductors and can prevent good electrical contact from being made. Some lubes that you may see (typically in automotive lamp applications) is to help seal out water and prevent corrosion. Most switch contacts don't merely touch when they close, but rather perform a "wiping" motion. The two surfaces "scrape" across each other to help remove any foreign debris or oxidation that may be on the surface of the contacts. Additionally, quality contacts have a thin coating of silver, so they are not to be dressed with a file or other abrasive , etc.

The possible sources for the problem that I can see would be - in order of likelihood: (1) trippers, (2) loose field connections, (3) loose factory connections (4) failed timer switches.

Remedies: Make sure the trippers are not bent or damaged. Straighten or better yet - replace as needed. Make sure they are seated firmly against the outer edge of the dial and the thumb screws are made up tight. Check the connections at the terminal screws. Conductors should wrap 3/4 of the way around the threads of the terminal screws - and the screws should be tight. Check for loose factory connections - tighten any loose connections found. If these conditions are OK, the only thing left would be to replace the timer. Purchase a replacement and disconnect the field connections and remove the timer from the enclosure. Install the new timer into the old enclosure and make up the field connections at the terminals. Return the old timer in the new enclosure to the store or manufacturer for credit - or discard if out of warranty.

Don't even open the timer unless the power is off - unless you need to measure voltages, etc.

I hope this helps. Please rate this reply - thanks!

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Agitator will try to agitate then shut down

Please to these steps to fix the issue.Check the lid switch, in some cases if the lid switch is broken it will agitate, but will not spin.You may need to replace the belt, if belt is in good condition and tight, you may need to check the timer. When you find the faulty part that needs to be replaced call First Source Parts and use the model number to order the part you need.
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Washer will not drain

Please follow the steps provided bellow :
Fill washer with water and wait for the timer to get to the drain mode.
Unplug the washer from the electric outlet.
Open the case, and disconnect the water hose from the outlet of the water pump.
If you get water pouring out from the pump, then plug that up and check the hose to the sewer. If that is clogged, then you have found the problem.
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Reassemble hose from step 3.
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Aug 16, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

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Washer wont progress through the cycles, suspect timer.

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Jan 06, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Dishwasher will not start

hello there im on ss too so i have a soft spot for any one who's trying to live on it first the problem can be any one of the things you mentioned there is no magic bullet that i can just say this is it your problem your neighbor will have to test but i will be happy to assist one of my instructors once told me appliance repair is easy you find out where the power starts you find out where it stops in between those two points is the problem first place to check is the breaker make sure its on that's where it starts then remove the lower kick-plate and check where the power hooks up under the washer from there it goes up to the door latch switches from the door latches it goes out to the timer from the timer it goes to the water valve safety switch then to the water fill valve then to the main motor now even if the timer motor was bad it still should fill when you turn the timer to start some where on the washer is a tech sheet which showers the switches and wiring diagram may be under the bottom kick plate but first check the breaker if its tripped turn reply to be and we will go from there just reply to this post and hold my rating till we fix it ok

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Maytag mav7600 agitator works and don't

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Admiral washer (LNC6748A80) does nothing during first spin cycle

I have the same model and symptom. The first spin cycle won't spin (regardless of whether it's the Regular or the Knits & Delicates cycle).

For me, it's definitely a faulty timer. The model is 35-3838. Mine says Magic Chef, but it could say Maytag or something else and it's still likely the same part, AFAIK. It was easy to remove the top sheet metal covers. (UNPLUG the washer first!) Fyi, the 3 small knobs pull straight off, but the timer knob must unscrew counterclockwise to remove it. (I first tried to pull it with no success). The timer has 2 screws. The wires are bundled on one connector which is easy to remove.

I'm waiting on a new switch, but I'm sure it's a faulty switch because I tested the continuity between the terminals and proved what should be closed by contact is instead an open, hence it doesn't complete the circuit.

Details: The timer has 3 rows by 8 columns of pins (plus another incomplete row but ignore that). If you carefully remove the soft plastic cover that wraps around the timer, you will see how the dial moves around and raises the contacts to one of 3 positions (call it up, mid, and down). In the down position, the bottom 2 pins in that column should short. In the mid position, no pins short. In the up position, the top 2 pins should short.

In my timer, the bottom 2 pins in the column closest to the knob are supposed to short during the first spin cycle, but they don't.

I can see soot evidence of electrical arcs on the rotating cylinder. That was a big clue there was a contact problem.

I was able to clean the upper set of contacts with contact cleaner and a small q-tip (with most cotton removed). Several were very dirty. Unfortunately, the lower half of contacts is not accessible unless one really disassembles the timer, and I wasn't willing to bother with it, so I ordered a new one.

It could have been, of course, one of the other switches that failed to make a proper connection, or, less likely, it could be a broken wire. With an ohmeter, one can check the connections. My washer has a schematic taped inside the top sheet metal, but if you don't see one, it's probably online. That will tell you which terminals are supposed to be shorted together for the various switch positions and timer cycles. It's tricky to understand, but if you can read circuit diagrams and know your way around with an ohmeter/continuity checker, it's not very difficult. To check the timer, however, is very easy once you understand that in each column of connections, the timer will either short the bottom pair (low position), or short nothing (mid), or short the top pair (high position). You can just test whether the timer is making those connections without bothering with the schematic details.

Many of these kinds of washer problems are caused by a worn out timer. Perhaps the contacts can be cleaned to fix some problems, but if not, a replacement can be bought for around $130 or so, and it's easy to install.

In the past, I've replaced the belt (35-2320) for about $20. The hinges on the lid and the top have also broken and been replaced. At some point, I'll buy a new one, but for now, repairs are my best option.

(Fyi the matching electric dryer is also working, but I've replaced the belt that broke, and I've replaced the thermal fuse (53-1182) maybe 6 times which to me is a very poor record. A few years back, when the belt broke, I took the time to clean out more of the lint. There was a huge amount trapped in the front panel area, and that probably stressed the fuse more than usual. Periodic cleaning may be advised. My vent through the crawl space is also too long and too large which is bad because low air velocity allows more lint build up. So periodically, I have to disassemble the vent pipe and vacuum out large amounts of lint. Oh well).

Sep 22, 2007 | Washing Machines

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