Question about Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

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Follow up thanks for your reply. I checked the contacts to the timer and all are connected. my wife said that the washer has been having problems for some time -- prior to stopping completely recently, the washer would not go to the spin cycle until the lid is lifted, which causes it to cycle to rinse. wondering since it stopped completly if the timer was going bad, or perhaps the circuit board that attaches to the timer. is there any way to know, as i will try to order fairly expensive part if I can guess which one. thanks in advance.

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That's odd. the washer would not run in the spin cycle if the lid is lifted but in your case, it would run if you lift the lid.

check the lid also. it could have been damaged and the contacts were able to swap location or change status.

it should be close contacts when the lid is close and open when the lid is open. check the resistance.

tnx 4 using fixya,


Posted on Oct 21, 2008

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Maytag washer MAH4000AWW timer will not advance. Washer will operate if I manually advance timer. Have changed timer, followed Drive System diagnostic test, the wax motor and control board were replaced a...

there is a motor inside the timer that turns the knob. the problem must be the replacement timer. was it a brand new timer from maytag or a 2nd hand? also double check your timer is connected correctly.

Nov 08, 2013 | Maytag Washing Machines


Water is not getting inside my washing machine.

If water is not getting into the machine, check the following:

To start cut power to the applianc3e for five minutes, this can fix a jammed timer control.

Check if the hot and cold water faucets are connected, and have good pressure.

If that does not work you may need to call a repairman to test the following:

The inlet valve must be tested by energizing it , testing valve solenoid, and reading voltages to identify a fault in wiring (contact).

If the inlet valve is fine when tested, worth having a look at the water level switch, if it is stuck on overfill position , it will prevent water from getting into the machine.

Lastly,the timer control board should be tested, to ensure that the problem is not a faulty timer keeping the inlet valve on close position.

on Mar 30, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Washer fills and agitates but wil not empty or spin. I tried to bypass the lid switch and still same problem. How do I check the timer.

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
OK first lets get back to the basics
First investigate these things fully
It doesn't drain dot_lineone.gif 1. Clogged drain line or water pump
Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).

2. Water Pump
If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for cracks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.

When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem: It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer. THERE IS NO REPAIR FOR THE TIMER

Aug 04, 2011 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

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Agitator will try to agitate then shut down

Please to these steps to fix the issue.Check the lid switch, in some cases if the lid switch is broken it will agitate, but will not spin.You may need to replace the belt, if belt is in good condition and tight, you may need to check the timer. When you find the faulty part that needs to be replaced call First Source Parts and use the model number to order the part you need.
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Nov 05, 2009 | Admiral AW22 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer will not drain

Please follow the steps provided bellow :
Fill washer with water and wait for the timer to get to the drain mode.
Unplug the washer from the electric outlet.
Open the case, and disconnect the water hose from the outlet of the water pump.
If you get water pouring out from the pump, then plug that up and check the hose to the sewer. If that is clogged, then you have found the problem.
Some washers have a self cleaning filter in that hose somewhere. Check that to be sure it is working properly.
Reassemble hose from step 3.
Plug washer back in. If it pumps out now, then you are done. If it doesn't, then the water pump is probably defective, so replace it.
Reassemble washing machine're done...
Thanks for contacting

Aug 16, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Thank you for the info. washer that doesn't work

It appears your timer has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to or and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...

FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.

If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.

Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Jan 08, 2009 | Washing Machines

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Washer wont progress through the cycles, suspect timer.

I was able to fix the problem by replacing the timer ($106 CDN). Thanks for everything.

Jan 06, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Dont worry by the time you read this it will probably already start working again. There is a Auto Reset Thermal Overload Switch on the motor that shuts it down when its pulling too much amperage. Its not good for them but they are usually fine. Just advise your wife its hard on your particiular design washer to be overloaded.

Nov 25, 2007 | Maytag MAV7600 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag mav7600 agitator works and don't

Look at timer plug on harness for pins that are sticking out from side of timer plug, away from timer. See if they are all in the same amount. Sometimes one can work its way out so it won't make a good contact. Push in to plug if you find one.

Nov 14, 2007 | Maytag MAV7600 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Admiral washer (LNC6748A80) does nothing during first spin cycle

I have the same model and symptom. The first spin cycle won't spin (regardless of whether it's the Regular or the Knits & Delicates cycle).

For me, it's definitely a faulty timer. The model is 35-3838. Mine says Magic Chef, but it could say Maytag or something else and it's still likely the same part, AFAIK. It was easy to remove the top sheet metal covers. (UNPLUG the washer first!) Fyi, the 3 small knobs pull straight off, but the timer knob must unscrew counterclockwise to remove it. (I first tried to pull it with no success). The timer has 2 screws. The wires are bundled on one connector which is easy to remove.

I'm waiting on a new switch, but I'm sure it's a faulty switch because I tested the continuity between the terminals and proved what should be closed by contact is instead an open, hence it doesn't complete the circuit.

Details: The timer has 3 rows by 8 columns of pins (plus another incomplete row but ignore that). If you carefully remove the soft plastic cover that wraps around the timer, you will see how the dial moves around and raises the contacts to one of 3 positions (call it up, mid, and down). In the down position, the bottom 2 pins in that column should short. In the mid position, no pins short. In the up position, the top 2 pins should short.

In my timer, the bottom 2 pins in the column closest to the knob are supposed to short during the first spin cycle, but they don't.

I can see soot evidence of electrical arcs on the rotating cylinder. That was a big clue there was a contact problem.

I was able to clean the upper set of contacts with contact cleaner and a small q-tip (with most cotton removed). Several were very dirty. Unfortunately, the lower half of contacts is not accessible unless one really disassembles the timer, and I wasn't willing to bother with it, so I ordered a new one.

It could have been, of course, one of the other switches that failed to make a proper connection, or, less likely, it could be a broken wire. With an ohmeter, one can check the connections. My washer has a schematic taped inside the top sheet metal, but if you don't see one, it's probably online. That will tell you which terminals are supposed to be shorted together for the various switch positions and timer cycles. It's tricky to understand, but if you can read circuit diagrams and know your way around with an ohmeter/continuity checker, it's not very difficult. To check the timer, however, is very easy once you understand that in each column of connections, the timer will either short the bottom pair (low position), or short nothing (mid), or short the top pair (high position). You can just test whether the timer is making those connections without bothering with the schematic details.

Many of these kinds of washer problems are caused by a worn out timer. Perhaps the contacts can be cleaned to fix some problems, but if not, a replacement can be bought for around $130 or so, and it's easy to install.

In the past, I've replaced the belt (35-2320) for about $20. The hinges on the lid and the top have also broken and been replaced. At some point, I'll buy a new one, but for now, repairs are my best option.

(Fyi the matching electric dryer is also working, but I've replaced the belt that broke, and I've replaced the thermal fuse (53-1182) maybe 6 times which to me is a very poor record. A few years back, when the belt broke, I took the time to clean out more of the lint. There was a huge amount trapped in the front panel area, and that probably stressed the fuse more than usual. Periodic cleaning may be advised. My vent through the crawl space is also too long and too large which is bad because low air velocity allows more lint build up. So periodically, I have to disassemble the vent pipe and vacuum out large amounts of lint. Oh well).

Sep 22, 2007 | Washing Machines

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