Admiral washer (LNC6748A80) does nothing during first spin cycle
I have the same model and symptom. The first spin cycle won't spin (regardless of whether it's the Regular or the Knits & Delicates cycle).
For me, it's definitely a faulty timer. The model is 35-3838. Mine says Magic Chef, but it could say Maytag or something else and it's still likely the same part, AFAIK. It was easy to remove the top sheet metal covers. (UNPLUG the washer first!) Fyi, the 3 small knobs pull straight off, but the timer knob must unscrew counterclockwise to remove it. (I first tried to pull it with no success). The timer has 2 screws. The wires are bundled on one connector which is easy to remove.
I'm waiting on a new switch, but I'm sure it's a faulty switch because I tested the continuity between the terminals and proved what should be closed by contact is instead an open, hence it doesn't complete the circuit.
Details: The timer has 3 rows by 8 columns of pins (plus another incomplete row but ignore that). If you carefully remove the soft plastic cover that wraps around the timer, you will see how the dial moves around and raises the contacts to one of 3 positions (call it up, mid, and down). In the down position, the bottom 2 pins in that column should short. In the mid position, no pins short. In the up position, the top 2 pins should short.
In my timer, the bottom 2 pins in the column closest to the knob are supposed to short during the first spin cycle, but they don't.
I can see soot evidence of electrical arcs on the rotating cylinder. That was a big clue there was a contact problem.
I was able to clean the upper set of contacts with contact cleaner and a small q-tip (with most cotton removed). Several were very dirty. Unfortunately, the lower half of contacts is not accessible unless one really disassembles the timer, and I wasn't willing to bother with it, so I ordered a new one.
It could have been, of course, one of the other switches that failed to make a proper connection, or, less likely, it could be a broken wire. With an ohmeter, one can check the connections. My washer has a schematic taped inside the top sheet metal, but if you don't see one, it's probably online. That will tell you which terminals are supposed to be shorted together for the various switch positions and timer cycles. It's tricky to understand, but if you can read circuit diagrams and know your way around with an ohmeter/continuity checker, it's not very difficult. To check the timer, however, is very easy once you understand that in each column of connections, the timer will either short the bottom pair (low position), or short nothing (mid), or short the top pair (high position). You can just test whether the timer is making those connections without bothering with the schematic details.
Many of these kinds of washer problems are caused by a worn out timer. Perhaps the contacts can be cleaned to fix some problems, but if not, a replacement can be bought for around $130 or so, and it's easy to install.
In the past, I've replaced the belt (35-2320) for about $20. The hinges on the lid and the top have also broken and been replaced. At some point, I'll buy a new one, but for now, repairs are my best option.
(Fyi the matching electric dryer is also working, but I've replaced the belt that broke, and I've replaced the thermal fuse (53-1182) maybe 6 times which to me is a very poor record. A few years back, when the belt broke, I took the time to clean out more of the lint. There was a huge amount trapped in the front panel area, and that probably stressed the fuse more than usual. Periodic cleaning may be advised. My vent through the crawl space is also too long and too large which is bad because low air velocity allows more lint build up. So periodically, I have to disassemble the vent pipe and vacuum out large amounts of lint. Oh well).
Sep 22, 2007 |