Question about Coleman Heating & Cooling
When I plug in my camper the a/c comes on by itself, and goes off after running for 3 to 5 minutes. It will do this cycle as long as it is plugged in. If I push up on the selector knob ( fan, a/c, ect ) it will go off as long as I hold it. As soon as I let go it comes back on. I turned the thermostat so that the compressor won't come on, but it keeps doing the cycle. It started doing this about 3 weeks ago.
I need some help!
I don't think you need a new one just a good cleaning and service. The unit has a liquid high temperature line near the compressor with a fan blowing outside air across it this coil gets clogged over time with air-borne dirt and pollen and leaves and such and must be cleaned regularly or the unit will be unable to remove the heat from the coil and during the peak demand (3pm) the circuits that protect the compressor and the trailer wiring from being overloaded and burning or melting will trip. From what you have described it sounds like the RV is working as it should with a condenser coil that needs to be cleaned. GL and happy camping!
P.S. I've only serviced the occasional RV unit but in those cases I laid a piece of plywood on top of the Rv for work platform removed the retaining screws from the top cover and used a spray bottle with a good heavy foaming cleaner a shop-vac and a brush to get the job done.
Posted on Jun 11, 2008
Dirty coils might be your problem. You might have a refrigerant problem as well. Try cleaning it first then have a tech put gages on it. Doesn't sound too serious
Posted on Jun 12, 2008
SOURCE: coleman mach wire schematics?
COLEMAN R.V. AIR CONDITIONER SERVICE AND REPAIR QUESTIONS
COLEMAN R.V. PRODUCTS
GO TO www.rvcomfort.com
Click on RVP (RV PRODUCTS)
Click on type of AC, if you can’t find the information you want there,
then click on contact us on the Green Bar.
You can get Service Support or Email address and Phone numbers.
Posted on May 11, 2009
“The voltage could be low – ”
a) Check the voltage between #1 on the
overload switch and the “R” terminal of the
compressor while it is not humming. This
voltage must be 115 volts domestic USA
models or 240 volts export/overseas models.
No less than minus 10% is allowable.
b) Check the voltage from “C” or “R” of the
compressor while it is humming (trying to
start). The latter reading will probably be
lower, but it still must be 103.5 volts
minimum domestic USA or 216 volts
minimum export/overseas models.
If the first reading is above 103.5V domestic USA and
the second is under 103.5V domestic USA, there is
too much voltage drop in the lines - a situation which
must be corrected for the air conditioner to perform
safely and satisfactorily.
2. “A capacitor could be shorted, weak or open.”
Turn the power off.
Caution – There is always a chance that a capacitor is
holding a residual charge, so before touching a
terminal, discharge the capacitor as explained earlier
in this booklet.
Remove capacitors, visually examine them and test
them per instructions given in earlier section on
capacitor testing (See page 9).
If the capacitors test OK, replace them and carefully
reconnect the wires. Be sure the wires are connected
to the right terminals.
3. “Start relay contacts could be open – ” if so equipped.
Turn off all power, then check for continuity with
ohm meter between terminals 1 & 2.
4. “Compressor start winding could be open or
Check compressor windings per instructions. See the
section on the compressors (See page 8).
5. “Compressor could be mechanically stuck.”
This very rarely occurs and when it does, it is usually
after a lengthy shutdown. This should be considered
only after all the above possible causes have been
positively eliminated. To free a stuck compressor, use
your hermetic analyzer according to the
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
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