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Problem is with a direct vent gas fireplace. Pilot light will not stay on after following proper lighting procedures. I have changed the thermocouple and that did not solve the problem.

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  • silviop Oct 20, 2008

    Brand is INSTA-FLAME
    Model number is DV34

  • silviop Oct 20, 2008

    brand is  INST-FLAME
    model number is DV 34

  • silviop Oct 20, 2008

    I've already done all that as I've explained in my original question. Is changing the gas valve the next logical step?

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Make sure you trace the wire to the flame sensor back to the board and see that it is still connected.

Posted on Oct 20, 2008

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You need to provide brand and model number .

It will be mostly connection oriented problem .

post back the details .

Posted on Oct 20, 2008

  • SAM ANDERSON Oct 20, 2008


    • Turn of gas to line for a few minutes to clear the gas out.


    • Turn knob to pilot (so the notch allows you to push the button down.


    • Turn on the gas.


    • Push pilot button down (generally red)


    • Light pilot while holing button down. (It may take a couple of minutes for the gas to reach the pilot)



    • Continue holding the button down for up to a minute (so the thermo coupling heats up and then let go)



    • If the pilot stays lit your all set. move knob to start or on.



    • If the pilot does not stay lit try it again. (if it fails again when
      you let off the button the thermocouple is probably bad replace it.



    • If this does not work you might have a bad valve or a plugged line


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1 Answer

We have not turned the heater on since 2010. it is a gas with fake logs.A rennai flame fire inbuilt standards. Husband says the thermacouple is not working? what do you recommend?


Stephanie, I 'm not sure how it was determined, that your direct-vent gas fireplace needs a Thermocouple? As a dirty pilot light will also mimic a faulty thermocouple. In addition, if the fire hasn't been used since Winter of last tear, and the gas line to the unit has been turned OFF since then, the air in the gas line must be purge, before the Pilot will light and hold.

If all of the above can safely be ruled out, then the thermocouple should be replaced. The facing of the fireplace will have to be removed, to access the Thermocouple.and it's connections to the gas control valve. You didn't mention which Rinnai Gas Fireplace you have, but most if their units, use Thermocouple part # 90193475. If you're going to replace it, it would be a good idea to also replace the Thermocouple Retainer, part # 9377.

I hope this helps you to further troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Jun 21, 2011 | Rinnai Air Conditioners

1 Answer

Gas fireplace wont stay lit- it is a sealed unit so can taccess the pilot or gas holes in the logs. is it safe to remove glass panel?


Yes, removing the glass is safe, if you do it carefully, so as not to break it. Put it well out of your way, after removing it. In fact, removing it is the only way to access and service the Pilot Assembly and the Burners.

If the pilot won't stay lit, there are several things that can cause this on a Direct Vent Gas Fireplace:
  • The direct vent on the outside of the house is block or clogged.
  • Wind is blowing back through the direct vent, blowing out the pilot.
  • Low gas pressure
  • A dirty pilot.
  • The thermocouple and/or Thermopile (part of the pilot assembly) has failed.
If you can provide me with the make and model number of your gas fireplace, I may be able to furnish you with an Owners Manual, that will help you to continue to troubleshoot the problem.

Hope this helped you.

Apr 29, 2011 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

My Rinnai Flame fire classique ib30 will light, but as soon as i lift my finger it goes out, what is my solution??


From what you have describe, it sounds as if the Thermocouple on the Pilot Assembly has failed and needs to be replaced. Or if this is a Vent-free (vent-less or ductless) gas fireplace, the Oxygen Depletion Sensor (ODS) is clogged with dust, lint and/or pet hair. The ODS constantly monitors the room's oxygen level to make sure that there is enough O2 for safe combustion. The ODS is part of the pilot. The reason I mention this, is that your model does not appear in any of the Rinnai USA products. So, I don't know if it's a Direct Vent Gas Fireplace or a Vent-free Model. In any event, the Thermocouple can be an issue with both.

Hope this helps you troubleshoot the problem.

Apr 15, 2011 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

Pilot light ignites, but fire does not light from pilot. As soon as i release the button pilot goes out. Any ideas as what could be causing this


Not sure what type of gas appliance you're having a problem with. If it's a vent-free gas heater, fireplace or gas log set, this problem is usually associated with a clogged Oxygen Depletion Sensor (ODS), which is a safety feature. In addition, based on the age of your unit and whether or not it has had regular annual maintenance, it could be the Thermocouple or Thermopile has failed. The latter can occur with both Vent-free and Vented Gas appliances.

If you will get back to me through the comment section of this page, with more specific details of what you have, I can help you further.

Mar 18, 2011 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

I replaced the gasvalve and thermalpile in my 35,BTU wall heater I light the pilot and turn the heat on it goes out I ran a new state wire in case of a short but it still does it, did I get a bad...


Did you get the right gas valve for a thermapile and not a 24 volt gas valve? Also I would recheck my wiring.... Here is a article that may be of HELP....... Hope this Helps.....
Thermocouple: A thermocouple is a device made of two different metals which creates a small electrical charge when heated at one end.
Thermopile: A thermopile is a probe that contains multiple thermocouples, therefore it can produce a larger electrical current. Millivolts: 1/1000 of a volt - thermocouples and thermopiles typically produce from 25 to 600 millivolts of power.
Piezio - a spark producing device often used to ignite gas pilots and burners.
Gas Valves Types:
A. Single Thermocouple Only - Used on some gas logs
B. Valves with Thermocouples and Thermopiles - Used on most hearth appliances and gas logs with switches or remote controls or thermostats.
C. ODS Systems - Used on Mostly Vent-Free. Available in manual control or thermostat/remote/switch (combination) valves.
valvepict.jpg
Typical Gas Valve A. Thermocouple-Only
Found in: Most gas log sets with standard safety pilot knob control. Also found in certain gas space heaters and construction-site portable heaters.
Explanation: This type of gas valve used a single thermocouple. A thermocouple is a device made of two different metals which creates a small electrical charge when heated at one end by the gas pilot. This small charge causes an electromagnet inside the gas valve to open and allow gas to flow to the main burners. Since the thermocouple must be heated before the burner will start, gas appliances often have a startup mode, during which a knob must be depressed and held for 30 seconds or so after lighting the pilot. At the end of the 30 seconds, the pilot should be generating enough electricity for the valve to operate correctly. At this time, the startup knob can be released and the valve turned to an "on" position for appliance operation.
pilotclose.gif Troubleshooting:
Most problems with this type of valve are due to thermocouple problems. Check the following:
1. Connection from the thermocouple to the valve. Clean the threads of the connecting nut with a pencil eraser and re-tighten.
2. Pilot hood and flame direction. The pilot should engulf the top 5/8" of the thermocouple with a decent flame. If the flame hits the thermocouple too low, this can cause the appliance to go out or not generate enough millivolts for valve operation. The pilot hood and orifice should also be clean from soot which could slow or block the pilot flame.
3. Pilot pressure. Many of these valves have an adjustment screw to adjust the pilot flame. A pilot that is too short may allow the pilot to stay lit after ignition, but may not create enough charge to allow the burners to ignite.
4. Overheating: If the unit works for a few hours and then shuts down, it's possible the thermocouple has become overheated. Repositioning of the gas valve and/or pilot may be needed to avoid this problem.
Problems with LP units can also be due to a tank that is nearly empty or a bad regulator at the tank.
B. Thermocouple & Thermopile valve
gas1.gif Found in: Most modern VENTED gas stoves, fireplaces and fireplace inserts as well as vented gas log sets with thermostat or remote control.
This valve is similar to the thermocouple only valve, however has a pilot which heats up BOTH a thermocouple and a thermopile. The thermocouple still acts to prove that the pilot flame is on and allows this flame to continue after startup. The thermopile is used to power a second circuit which is used to open the main valve. This second circuit is powerful enough (300-600 millivolts) to allow the use of a thermostat, wall switch or control switch to operate the main valve. Control of the valve is obtained simply by hooking a pair of wires to two terminals located on the valve.
Startup is similar to the thermocouple-only valve. A piezo spark ignition is used to ignite the pilot after the gas knob is turned to the "pilot" position and depressed. Once the pilot is lit, the knob is held in for 30 seconds to "prove" the heat and then released and turned from the "pilot" to the "on" position. The main burner will then respond to the switch, thermostat or remote control.
Troubleshooting
Since there is both a thermocouple and thermopile in this valve type, it is important to isolate where the potential problem may be. If the pilot can be lit and stays on after the knob is released, then the problem is probably with the thermopile side of the valve. Here are the most common problems and solutions.
1. Pilot does not light or stay lit after knob is released - Make certain that the Piezo igniter works by checking for a spark between the igniter tip and the pilot hood. If there is no spark, the piezo may be bad or the piezo wire might be shorting to the appliance chassis. It is also possible that the igniter tip needs to be bent slightly toward the pilot hood so the spark jumps to it.
Check carefully that gas to appliance is on and that the valve is in he correct (pilot) position and fully depressed when lighting.
If pilot ignites but does not stay lit after knob is released, then the problem is with the thermocouple not generating enough voltage to the valve. It may be that the pilot adjustment needs to be turned up, or the thermocouple replaced. Another possibility is that the thermocouple may not be being "bathed" fully by the pilot flame. Check your owners manual for a diagram and description of the proper pilot flame and hood adjustment. It is also possible that there is soot or other blockage in the pilot tube, orifice or hood which is reducing the size of the pilot (and also the voltage of the thermocouple).
2. Pilot stays lit, but appliance will not turn on - There are two common causes for this. It is possible that the thermopile is not producing enough millivolts to power the control circuit. The millivolts can be checked with a simple voltmeter (consult the owners manual for proper setting) and adjusted with the pilot adjustment screw. Improper millivolts will also cause the appliance to shut down in the middle of operation.
Another common problem is loose or poor connections or circuits to your appliance switch, thermostat or remote transceiver. This can be isolated by simply using a small piece of wire to jump the "TP" and "TH" terminals located on these valves. If the appliance turns on when these terminals are jumped, then you can be sure that your problem is not in the appliance itself, but further down the switch circuit. Make certain you have used the suggested gauge of wire and that the length for your control runs does not exceed the specs given in your manual.
3. Other possible problems - include wind or back drafts affecting the pilot flame and checking of "spillage" circuits which may be wired into the valve in most B-Vent units.
If all the above checks out, and your valve is still acting weird (i.e., works some of the time), then you may have a defective gas valve in the appliance. Problems with LP units can also be due to a tank that is nearly empty or a bad regulator at the tank.
C. ODS System
Found in: Unvented (Ventless, Vent free) gas logs, fireplaces and stoves. These systems are available in manual or remote control.
ods.gif ODS stands for "Oxygen Depletion Sensor" , a term which accurately describes this valve type. The valve itself is similar in many ways to the two valve types above...with one exception. The pilot tube is a precision mechanism that creates a very stable flame as long as the room air contains the proper amount of oxygen. If the oxygen level in the room air drops even slightly, the pilot becomes unstable and lifts off of the thermocouple (see diagram) causing the gas valve and appliance to cease operation. This type of valve is very reliable, and there have been very few failures of this system - even with tens of millions in use worldwide.

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2 Answers

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The reason this is happening is that the overload switch, which is part of the safety features has gone bad. That's why the burner will only light with the glass off. The orange color of the flame from the pilot flame is normal for propane.

Unfortunately, this is not a DIY fix. If you can find a qualified service technician, that's the best way to go. As, Heat-n-Glow fireplaces are a basic, builder box line. And as such, have some quirks that other, more expensive gas fireplaces don't have.

Hope this helps solve your problem.

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