Question about Cooktops
Approximately 3 months ago lighting on the digital control panel became very faint to the point of being almost unreadable. Oven, cooktop and controls, however, continued to function. Few days ago a continuous beeping started and an F7 code appeared on the read-out. My question: Are there two separate problems with the keypad and the control unit? Will installing new keypad fix both problems or will a new keypad and control unit be required? Don't want to spend $300+ if I need just one or the other.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Just had this problem today on our seven or eight year old Jenn-Air cooktop. When using the front right burner all ignitors would continue to fire until I turned off the burner. The three other burners worked correctly. After trying all the obvious soulutions w/o success I pulled off that burners control knob and the rubber seal which exposed the valve. Their was a bunch of crud in there. I put a small (one inch) paint brush in there and vigorusly loosened all the crud. I then inserted the nozzle of our central vac - which just happened to fit perfectly - and sucked all the stuff out. I repeated the proceedure a couple more times, reassembled the knob and started the burner. Worked just perfectly!!! YMMV. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 08, 2008
SOURCE: elecrical hook-up for cooktop
Based on your description...it appears the Viking unit may NOT comply with UL and the NEC....but implies that some local Codes may permit the suggested connection...and it may indeed be permitted - if the unit actually draws straight 240 and does not require a neutral for 120 volts (some cooktops do need the neutral for 120 volt control switches...such as your Jennair). Code now requires that new 120/240 units that require the neutral (your Viking unit states that it does not) be a 4 wire assmebly....and your unit MAY be an exception to this requirement.
Under those conditions...then it more then likely CAN be connected as you (and Viking) suggest - black to black, red to red,green to white...and insure that the junction box is indeed well grounded to the supply bare ground wire - so that the metal flex will serve as a supplemental ground to the cook-top.The only other consideration will then be - IS the exisiting wire size and breaker that used to supply the Jennair correct for the new unit..? And if so - then you should be all set with your suggested hook-up...but without electrical nameplate data for both units for comparison...I have no way to determine that....both companies make several different models with different power supply requirements.
If the electrical data is compatible between the two units...then you should be all set as suggested - without having to rewire the cooktop.
Hope this helps...please follow-up if you need more details or have new information for me concerning this cooktop.
Posted on Mar 03, 2008
open that two screw also check there is other screw or not?
Also check there is any locksystem if u find any lock then open it then remove the cook top easily.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
Did you spill water near/on knobs? if so leave to dry out for 24 hours. If still clicking after 24 hours one of the switches has shorted out and needs to be replaced. You can find which one with a multi meter/condinuity test. Hope this helps...Good Luck
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
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