What tool do i need to remove the clutch plate from a makita 340 dcs? I can get the nut from the bolt by rotating it clockwise, but then, the clutch plate moves in syncronicity with the threaded shaft, so i have no way of moving the threaded clutch plate in the opposite direction of the threaded shaft, in order to remove it. I am in north east canada. my email is firstname.lastname@example.org
You need a piston stop to stop the engine from rotating,then with a clutch tool you can spin off the clutch,most of them are left had thread.if you don't have a clutch tool you can use a hammer and punch on one of the main arms of the clutch itself.for a piston stop you can use a piece of 1/4"rope.put the piston at the bottom of the stroke and stuff the rope in the sparkplug hole,this stops the piston from reaching it's full stroke.
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clutch not like car clutch basically single exterior nut then start pulling outer assembly pulley and electrical components apart need some special tools and a rebuild kit to repair an auto a/c compressor
The nut is not on the bottom, but under the snapout kerf plates. You remove the plastic kerf plates to access the bolt. Once you remove the nut the turntable will lift straight up and off. Check the stainless steel wear plate at the rear for burrs or wear.
Do not use oil or wd40 etc - it will collect sawdust and cause problems down the road. I recommend a pure silicone spray that will dry completely and provide lubrication.
Pull primary cover and then pull primary chain adjuster and compensator and clutch and chain out and then remove six metric bolts and remove clutch pressure plate and discs and then replace hub and bearing assembly and replace clutch disc and pressure plate etc as you took them apart. Might not cost that much more to simply buy a whole new clutch assembly and have it all new. You will need a bar to lock the primary and compensator together when you loosen and when you tighten the retaining fasteners.
Tighten compensating sprocket bolt to 100 ft-lbs (135.7 Nm) and then reverse the drive locking tool and loosen the bolt one full turn and then reverse the locking tool again and tighten the bolt to a final torque of 140 ft-lbs (190.0 Nm). Install the locking tool again and tighten the clutch hub mainshaft nut to 70-80 ft-lbs (94.9-108.5 Nm).
After the compensator and clutch fasteners have been torqued Install the primary chain tensioner and tighten the fasteners to 15-19 ft-lbs (20.3-25.8 Nm).
take clutch case off , you then see the clutch basket and you need to remove the center plate with about 6 bolts , then remove the fiber coated plates along with metal plates .. then replace first a fiber coated plate followed by a metal plate then a fiber following this until all plates are in and a fiber plate is showing ! then replace the cover plate with 6 bolts , tighten all bolts then undo the center nut with the adjusting screw and back it off until there is slight free play on the clutch leaver as you pull it and then release! lock the nut up holding the screw and try ! soak fiber plates for an hour before installing also ! cheers
Check thishttp://www.babbittsonline.com/suzuki-motorcycle-parts#/Suzuki/VL1500T_(2009)/CLUTCH/022890010/56022890019 If you need to take apart just the clutch plates and replace them, you don't need any special tool.Just remove the right hand crankcase cover and the 5 bolts with the springs and pull out the pressure plate and replace the clutch plates.To remove the clutch basket (part #1 on illustrator), then you do need special tools such as air ratchet gun and the Suzuki special tool that holds the basket still, to remove the nut.
If you just want to remove and replace the clutch plates then no special tools required just open the cover remove the pressure plate bolts and start removing old plates and then replace with new ones in exactly same way - tip with installing new clutch plates - soak them in oil few hours at least best over night before you install them back in -
If how ever you want the clutch hub and clutch basket off as well for some reason then you will need a clutch holding tool as well as you rarely could undo the lock nuts with out it
when changing your clutch plates go slowly take care and special notice to how it is all coming apart. from model to model sometimes there can be a little spacer or little spring or little ball bearing somewhere that with out care and attention may fall on the floor so go slow give notice to the order of the parts as they come out and you will have no dramas at all, as is reasonably simple job to do
good luck regards Jamie
Here are removal procedures. Can I send reinstall on another ticket? I don't think they will fit in one solution...
1.8L and 1.9L Engines
See Figures 1, 2
Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
Remove the battery and battery tray.
Remove the engine air cleaner tube and the air intake resonator.
Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transaxle.
Remove the slave cylinder line-to- slave cylinder hose retaining clip, then disconnect the slave cylinder line from the slave cylinder hose and plug the hose.
Disconnect the ground strap from the transaxle.
Remove the tie wrap and unplug the three electrical connectors located above the transaxle.
Remove the electrical connector support bracket.
Install Engine Support Bar 014-00750 or equivalent, and attach it to the engine lifting eyes with suitable chains or cables.
Fig. 1: Install a suitable engine support bar and attach it to the engine lifting eyes-1.8L and 1.9L engines
If equipped, remove the three nuts from the left-hand engine support bracket.
Loosen the mount pivot nut and rotate the mount out of the way.
Remove the three bolts and the left-hand engine support mount.
Remove the two upper transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
Remove the inner fender splash shields.
Drain the transaxle fluid and install the drain plug.
Remove the halfshafts.
Install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH or equivalent, between the differential side gears.
Failure to install the transaxle plugs may cause the differential side gears to become improperly positioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align them.
If equipped with the 1.8L engine, remove the intake manifold support bolts and the support.
Remove the starter motor.
Unfasten the gearshift stabilizer bar nut and washers. Remove the stabilizer bar and bracket from the transaxle.
Unfasten the shift control rod-to-transaxle bolt and nut and remove the shift control rod from the transaxle.
Remove both lower splash shields.
Unfasten the transaxle mount-to-crossmember bolts and nuts and remove the lower crossmember (rear engine support).
Position and secure a suitable transaxle jack under the transaxle.
Remove the front transaxle mount and bracket.
Fig. 2: Removing the front transaxle mount and bracket-1.8L and 1.9L engines
Remove the lower engine-to-transaxle bolts and slowly lower the transaxle out of the vehicle.
If the clutch assembly is to be reused, matchmark the pressure plate and the flywheel so they can be assembled in the same position.
Install flywheel holding tool T84P-6375-A or equivalent, in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine and engage the tooth of the holding tool into the flywheel ring gear.
Fig. 1: Install a flywheel holding tool in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine, and engage the tooth of the tool into the flywheel ring gear
Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time, in a crisscross pattern, until the spring tension is relieved, to prevent pressure plate cover distortion.
Support the pressure plate and unfasten the retaining bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel.
If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating (blue discoloration) or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.
Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and the clutch fork for wear. Replace parts as needed.
You really need a manual for this job if you have never done it before. readers digest version is as follows. Drain Primary Fluid, remove outter primary cover, Remove compensating Nut its the one on the front, use a snap ring plyer on the clutch, remove the clutch adjuster nut rod plate . will come out in one piece, Remove the Chutch Hub Nut it turns opposit ( in other words tightening is loosening it) remove bolt on the chain tensioner, whole system will now pull out.
Leave the stator magnet on dont have to remove thats the silver plate up front. Remove the jack shaft bolt on the starter pull it out. Go to other side of bike remove two starter bolts you will need LONG allen..then remove all the bolts on the inner primary and remove it. If you dont understand any of this you need a manual for your bike. or any Harley FL its all the same.