If the seat came out with the stem, you will need to reinstall it. The valve's disc needs a seat to seal properly. Is the seat threaded on the side opposite the bevel? Do you have a seat removal/Installation tool?
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your stem is most likely worn out beyond repair best thing you can doto save you any more trouble is remove the stem and take it to your nearest specialty plumbing store they can match it up with a new one and usually have most replacement stems on hand and they are fairly inexpensive. one thing to remember with new stems is the packing nut is usually loose so make sure you tighten it when you install it
If you have the Price Pfister stems they leak or will , even after replaced with a new seat washer . Try switching factory flat washer with cone shape washer and always check the brass seat in manifold for cracks, very seldom replaced very cheap pack of 10 5$ save that water we take for granted!
Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.
To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.
Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.
Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.
Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.
The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.
Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.
It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.
Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.
If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.
you either do not have it seated all the way or you have damaged an o-ring anytime you are putting togethr parts with o-rings you should make sure and put stem grease on the o-rings to ensure not to cut or damage them. if you have damaged the o-ring instead of a whole new part you can take the o-ring out take it to your local hardware store and match it with a new one. dont forget the stem grease.
The same part works for both Hot & Cold sides. Usually preset to work on Hot (counter clockwise on, clockwise off). To set for Cold, simple remove the plastic clip from the top, slide the ring tab off, flip it over and put back on (you can only put it on one way since there's a flat "key" in it matching the stem) Now its set for Cold (CCW of, CW on). HTH
ok you will need to replace the rubber seat and spring under each valve. You start by removing the plastic insert in the center of the valve. Remove the screw inside of handle and pull handle off. There will be a gasket under that and then you will see a bonnet. MAKE SURE THE MAIN WATER IS OFF before you proceed any further. Remove the bonnet by turning it counterclockwise. Once you have removed the bonnet then pull the stem out make sure you take care to notice exactly how it came out. Underneath the stem is a rubber seat and spring you can use a phillips screwdriver to insert in them and remove both. Replace them with new ones and re-install. If you are not very good at this sort of thing I recommend you call a repairman. Inserting of the stem back in its proper place is extremely important as it has to seat or it will not function properly. If you have any questions just ask.
The seat probably need either ground flat or replaced. Pull the stem and inspect where the washer seats for grooves or an uneven surface.
They make a seat tool specifically for seat removal but a fairly large allen wrench usually will work if you don't have access to one. If it's not too deep of a groove you can rub it on a piece of fine grit sand paper but make sure it's flat on the surface and not slanted. If it's very deep at all, you will be better off to take it to the local plumbing supply to match it for replacement.
As far as the washer, T&S used slightly different sizes of washers depending on the model
but just use the largest one that will fit inside the lip and flush with the bottom of the stem and it
will seat well. I generally have better luck with the beveled.