Question about Hotpoint RGB526 Gas Kitchen Range

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Leisure classic 90 - oven igniter doesn't operate when oven turned on. When lit manually, after it has heated, the igniters for all the hobs and grill start operating continuously until the oven is switched off. The FSD seems to operate normally. Help!

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Replace the ignitor

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I need to know how to light the oven? Does it have a pilot light like the stove top


most stoves do not have pilot lights but work from a pizo ignition system
when you turn on the gas knob ,the first action is to energize the pizo and that continually sparks to ignite the gas at the hob
the same is with the oven
ovens should be lit with the oven door open and once lit then the door can be closed

Jun 07, 2015 | Sears 61301 Gas Kitchen Range

Tip

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

Tip

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

on Feb 18, 2008 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

Leisure rangemaster 110


The switch may be faulty, turn off the power then remove the knob ,it just pulls off and shine a torch in to see if it looks burnt, also smell it often if the switch burns they have a distinct acrid smell.

May 07, 2014 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

I have a Leisure Gourmet Classic double oven. The hobs, the grill and the upper oven all work fine, but the lower oven suddenly stopped producing any gas. I turn the knob and the austomatic ignition s


Apparently there is a bad valve for that oven , recommend calling a gas service repairman . your gas provider should be able to recommend a good one to you .

Apr 19, 2017 | Leisure Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

I CLEANED MY CANNON CARRICK COOKER TODAY AND NOW THE IGNITION WILL ONLY WORK ON THE TWO RIGHT HAND HOBS. OVEN ANG GRILL ARE FINE AND LEFT HAND HOBS CAN BE LIT WITH A MATCH.


More that likely your just got the cleaning solution you used on the igniter/in the burner. Light the burners with a match and let them burn for a little bit of time. This usually works. If not you might have to clean the igniter and make sure it is creating a spark for ignition.

Mar 07, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

I have a Beko 'Leisure alta AL6ND' oven. The thermocouple has gone in the oven (ignites but not staying lit, all other burners and grill fine). I can get the back off easily, but the thermocouple screws in...


remove rear panels (3; 1 white, 2 galvanised).
look under rear folded edge of hob. remove 2 screws in corners. dont lose 2 top hat rubber washers. from rear of cooker, lift hob slightly and push forward 1/2". lift hob off. dont over tighten new thermocouple union on back of valve (note how tight old one was)

Dec 01, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Ignition switch on a gas hob/electric oven not sparking


Some have a AAA battery under the button - replace this, others use mains to create the spark, ensure you have the ignition wired up

Jun 01, 2009 | Ovens

2 Answers

Pressure of flames in Cannon gas oven


HI thanks for your question. the part that's at fault, is the igniter. it glows but not hot enough to ignite all the gas. replace the igniter. thanks the appliance doc. please rate my answer. thanks.

Oct 09, 2008 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven takes way too long to heat


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is how to determine if the igniter is bad. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance.

An igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad. An igniter should only take 30-90 seconds to ignite.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:
Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.
For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:
NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.
  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.
Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

Mar 24, 2008 | Whirlpool SF315 Dual Fuel (Electric and...

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