Re: Roper Drier no heat and continuous run for two hours
Your drier heating elements operates on 220 voltage, the drum and clock operate on 110, so you either have a blown fuse in one side of the fuse box ( easy fix )some time the circuit breaker will just need to be reset by turning it off and back on, or your heating elemant has opened up and will be more expences to fix, or it could just be a wire end has burned off. unplug plug from outlet remove back from drier and have a look see, and if bychance you have forgotten to clean your link trap if could be a high temp safety that has open and sometimes can be reset by pushing the reset button, all this is inside the back of the drier, if after that it may be time to call your friendly repair shop
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here is a blow up of that model you might have to copy and paste link hope this helpshttp://www.partselect.ca/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=586816&ModelNum=el5030vw0&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=6QLYC5ZY&Position=0&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=&Mark=0
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If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating
the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows
sometimes it is still not working properly.
Have you tried cleaning the actual inside of the drier? When you use drier sheets the wax on the sheets melts onto your clothes and makes them soft, but the wax often gets stuck in the holes of the drier making it incapable of drying the clothes in one load. Try scrubbing the inside of your drier with some hot water.
There is a chamber that the air blows down before hitting the vent pipe. It may need to be cleaned. But you want to make sure when you push your dryer back, that the vent doesn't kink. good luck. Overall you drier works, your just having a venting issue.
Have you checked the voltage at the outlet? You're supposed to read 220-240 VAC at the heating element. Your dryer heating circuits require at least 220 VAC to work. The motor, however, only uses 120 VAC. That's why your dryer may be running, but the heating circuits aren't heating. I would go back and check your outlet. You may be missing one leg of the 220 service, or have a loose, burned, or broken wire in the plug or terminal block (on the back of the dryer). Let me know what you find. I hope this helps you.
unplug the drier pull it out from the wall about a foot facing the drier take a small putty knife and insert it about 3" from the edge push the knife in till you feel the spring clip push in on it and lift the top then repeat that on the other side fold the top back till it leans against the wall look in the drier on the front edge of the front door panel there are two 5\16 in screws there remove them and un plug the light switch and the door switch assembly .grasp the front door panel and give it a quick snap forward to disengage the retaining clips and the door from the drum remove the door .Lay on the floor reach in and remove the belt from the idler pulley and blower motor pulley .Then while standing at the side of the drier grasp the belt with one hand and the front of the drier drum with the other and **** up sharply on the belt to release the drier drum from the rear drum bearing then remove the drum out the front on the rear you will see the heating element there will be one sensor on the heater pan that's the safety or high limit thermostat the tiny one on the drier body is the thermal overload the one on the vent at the bottom is the operating thermostat but its rare to have a problem with them if the drier is not heating the first thing i recommend is check your voltage and connections and don't assume just because its running its getting full voltage check it with a meter driers will run on 110 but will not heat without 220
the only thing that can burn in a drier is lint most of the time if lints building up in a drier depending on age its because of poor venting if the drier heats but it takes longer than an hour to dry clothes you have a vent restriction but every few years you should take it appart and clean it out now kenmores drums run on rubber wheels and like a car they get flat spots in them so they roar and bump when they first start but should get quiter as you run more loads during the day