I had moved my maytag side by side refrig and got a leak from the tube for the ice maker. I turned off the water flow. I was told to just tighten it and it would be alright. I did and turned on the water....
HI. I suspect a fault in the actual valve assembly. The valve is malfunctioning. This could be mechanical failure within in the valve structure, or solenoid failure, as well. The issue at hand is with the valve. it is not closing, properly. This fault will allow the internal lines to build up pressure,thus, causing the weakest connection point to leak. I suspect that there may be debris(mineral build up, calcium deposit) that may have allowed for the valve to become stuck, or this may be mechanical(solenoid failure). I recommend to inspect the inlet valve assembly for damage. You will need a multimeter for the electrical testing section of the procedure.
First, you will need to rule out any standard issues that will cause this. Check the internal, and external feed lines for any obstructions. Make sure that the internal lines are not frozen, or kinked. If the lines check out Ok, move on to the inlet procedure.
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Mar 26, 2010 |