Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV

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Mitsubishi wd 52525 Problems, but no blinking lights.

When tv was turned off, everything was working fine. Turned tv on next morning and, Ant.1 showed a black screen with white dots, and computer garbage (It wasn't just static, you can tell it is computer generated lines), moving around and was colored green,
The other devices, (ps3 and vcr) had blue screen with a basketball sized ghost floating around in the middle of the screen. Sometimes, audio partially works on ant. 1. I can select demo mode and the picture comes in almost perfect, except for the floating ghost is still present.
There are no flashing lights on the front panel, just the one solid green light.
So, Neal, would you have any dissassembly diagrams or other info that might help me do the repairs myself. My e-mail is Boss51@Atlasok.com. Thanks for any help you can give.

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5 Suggested Answers

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  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Flickering blue picture

I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!

I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.

I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.

If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.

Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:
a99678f.jpg
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
7826ab5.jpg

and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:
a158dce.jpg
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:
bb3e69c.jpg
76dcd23.jpg
9e2c246.jpg
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
55cd11f.jpg
1a03490.jpg

Posted on Feb 16, 2008

  • 179 Answers

SOURCE: mitsubishi wd52525 problems

i have thought about this since you first posted it. if the demo is good then the light engine is ok. it sounds like a problem in the chassis. probably on the DM and the terminal board. to repair the chassis would cost about $250.00 plus shipping.
go to www.tv-techs.com

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

MNfisherman
  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: green horizontal lines on screen no picture

The green CRT's (color picutre tube or color wheel, or ballast) will need to be tested for replacement.
It is quite common with these tv's

You will need an ohmmeter and or voltmeter and test each component for currency and accuracy

Posted on May 06, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: WD-52525 - No picture, green status light then turns to red lamp

check the lamp

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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