Samsung Synchmaster 940n - screen lasts 2secs then goes.off
Hi, My Samsung Synchmaster monitor comes on for 2 seconds and then goes off. If I repush the blue on/off button it comes back on for about 2 seconds and then goes off again,. Whats happening. Can anyone help.
I bought it new of an ebay store but I notice that Samsung will not honor warranties from an online auction. (Now they tell me). Can anything be done with it. Is it settings or stuffed?
#1 Make sure that you have only one input cable hooled up to the monitor. Using both DVI and VGA inputs from the same video card can cause this issue.
#2 Try both VGA and DVI inputs individually, make sure issue occurs on both.
#3 See if issue occurs connected to another system. Also boot this system to SAFE MODE see if monitor will then function at that resolution (It may be your system is set to a resolution the monitor will not display)
#4 If purchased recently, contact the seller. Most will honor a malfunctioning item. If not, contact EBay as there is normally a $200 MINIMUM buyer preotection plan,
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Your problem is usually caused by a bad power supply. You should be able to do the repair yourself, if just requires replacing 6 capacitors on the power supply board. Here is a link to a repair guide that shows how to disassemble the monitor and repair the power supply board.
1. Turn off both your computer and the monitor.
2. Unplug the video cable from the back of the computer.
3. Turn on the monitor.
If the monitor is functioning properly, you will see a box in the illustration below.
This box appears during normal operation if the video cable becomes disconnected or
4. Turn off your monitor and reconnect the video cable; then turn on both your computer and the
If your monitor screen remains blank after using the previous procedure, check your video
controller and computer system; your monitor is functioning properly.
The Power supply inside the monitor can be hazardous and donot open the monitor while power on.
Donot work with the monitor when it is open and the power supply is on.
If there is something wrong with the input signal, a message appears on the screen or the
screen goes blank although the power indicator LED is still on. The message may indicate
that the monitor is out of scan range or that you need to check the signal cable.
Do you have the video set to a range that this display cannot handle? Try rebooting into Safe Mode and set the resolution down to 800x600 or 1024x768 and see if it that will get you back. If so, then look up the specs of the display and set it no higher than it's max.
If it physicaly powers OFF, then you probably have a power issue.
I've had the same problem with mine and just fixed it (well, it's still working now, so fingers crossed).
The problem is the high-voltage supply to the backlight is breaking down due to a discharge path somewhere.
I took my monitor apart and noticed there was a lot of residue on the underside (surface-mount) side of the power supply board. The residue was bad enough to see fingerprints in it from the assembly workers. I cleaned the board thoroughly with isopropanol (other flux solvents would probably do a similar job) let it dry thoroughly, reassembled it and since then I've no problems :o)
The monitor isn't easy to take apart. Unplug the mains supply and video connector and remove the three screws and the stand. The body of the monitor is held together with clips all the way around. Prize these apart with a penknife or similar item. You have to be fairly firm, but careful not to slip and damage the monitor or yourself. Once the back is off keep the LCD face down in the front bezel, You'll see a small cable carrying signals from the front panel buttons. Remove the tape holding the cable down and unplug the connector on the end by holding down the latch.
There's a thin shiny panel clipped to the side of the pressed metal covering for the power supply. Prize away the clips on the outer edge first, then you are able to swing the panel towards you and unclip it from the other two locations by the arrows. Underneath are the backlight connectors. Note the colours of the wires (blue near the top, pink near the bottom for both pairs) and unplug them, holding down the latch. The only remaining anchor for the panel is the flat cable connector going to the LCD driver board at the top. Angle the metal pressing up a little so you can reach the connector and press in the two latches at the side. Then just slide the connector out.
Now you can remove the pressed panel holding the power supply and the VGA connector board. Undo the screws and take out the power supply board. Disconnect it from the other board (remember the latch) and pop out the three pegs holding the supplementary insulation sheet onto the back of the board. Don't lever them from the caps, just press the latching ends inwards and they pull out easily. Now your board is free you can inspect it and give it a clean. If anything looks damaged on the board it's probably best to replace it. Otherwise if it's covered in sticky residue like mine, clean it using a clean stippling brush or and old dry toothbrush with plenty of solvent and let it dry for a while.
Reassembly is just the reverse of assembly.
Hope I didn't forget anything. Good luck if you want to try it, but if you're not confident with electronics find someone who is. There are probably a number of faults that could result in this symptom, and I don't know how common mine is.
Simplest solution may be the screen resolution settings are set higher than the monitor's capabilities. Try lowering the screen resolution and refresh rate in the display properties or try booting to safe mode (press F8 when the Windows splash screen first appears) and see if the LCD will display the windows desktop. It that works, check your video drivers and the screen resolution and refresh rate settings. If the monitor has the problem in safe mode and/or if lowering the screen resolution and refresh rate don't help then I suspect the a problem similar to one some Dell 17inch LCDs have. On the Dells It is usually caused by a defective voltage regulator transistor in the backlight inverter circuit. Troubleshooting that problem should only be attempted if you have experience at repairing electronic circuitry since it will involve testing individual components and soldering.