We have power to it, but both sides are too warm inside even though the digital display say fridge is 1 and the freezer is -21
While it could be the main control board, I would check for a defrost circuit failure first. If you take off the read shield of the freezer you will be able to see the evaporator coils. If that is a block of ice, then your defrost circuit is not doing its job and the ice is causing the thermostats to read the incorrect temperature.
The good news is that once you defrost the unit, you will have 2-3 weeks before the ice builds up enough to be a problem again. Which give you time to troubleshoot and order the replacement parts.
SOURCE: freezer/fridge won't get cold enough
Madezmom, you have a defrost issue. If your model starts with 106 you more than likley have a bad defrost bi-metal, I will attach a picture of bad one. This sits on the evaporator in the freezer section behind the panel. You will have to remove the shelves and remove the back panel. Defrost the evaporator completely. The part number for the bi-metal is 2196155. See if yours is bulged like the one in the attached photo. If so, that's your problem..Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: fridge is warm even when i adjust temp. control.freezer is good.
if your fridge has 2 set of dials one numbers and the other letters than you need to adjust the dial that has letters on it. If the fan in your freezer is not blowing, then it won't force the cold air from the freezer to the fridge. Make sure fan blows then adjust the letter knob.
SOURCE: Whirpool fridge is warm, freezer is working
Check the back wall of the freezer compartment for ice buildup. Sounds like you have a defrost issue.
SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge
Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
SG
SOURCE: Fridge and Freezer are Warm Ice is still being made
Hi - I just had the same problem on a 48 Monogram 1996 model.
The guys at the factory told my local service center that it was the main logic board ($200 for parts) and they replaced it, but that wasn't it.
It was the evaporator sensor. i don't claim to understand it all, but I think that the sensor is responsible for telling a heating element to turn on and defrost. If it does not do it's job, then frost builds up (You can feel the frost if you feel up in the freezer, up hight and in the front)) The frost keeps the cold air from getting to the fridge. Eventually the logic unit will freak out because ti is trying to keep the fridge cold, but the fridge send back that it is hot.
The repair guy may not want to replace the sensor because it is like an hour and half to get back in there. And it is a tight fit.
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