Ge 50amp gfci trips, worked great before I bought it
Bought a used saratoga 10years old, worked great when i check it out, turned up on its side to move it, let it set for 2 months, hooked it up and it tripped the gfi, unplugged ext. units, stayed on, any thing I plugged in it tripped. replaced gfi with another ge, this time the light and the circulation pump would work without tripping the gfi. if I tried to plug in the pump or the blower, gfi trips. everything is dry under there, and has been. does the square D gfi work better, less sensitive, than the GE's? I now thinking that I may need to clean all connections to those motors, possibly corrided? FYi, the circulation pump is running with the heater and it came up to temp that I set with the control pad..
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Re: ge 50amp gfci trips, worked great before I bought it
When an electric motor kicks on there is an in rush current called FLA(full load amps), it is usually about 125% of rated circuit amperage. Try a 2 pole 60 amp gfci circuit breaker and see if that solves your issue. Going up to this amp breaker will not be a fire hazard or cause any anomalies.
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You can buy an inexpensive GFCI tester for as little as $10-$12. A better one with several mv settings will cost you a bit more. This way you can test this circuit and even GFCI receptacles. Then you'll know for sure if your breaker is working.
When wiring a GFCI (Ground Fault Interrupter Circuit) receptacle you would normally connect the wire coming from the service panel or the hot wire to the LINE connection at the GFCI and then connect the other receptacles you wish to protect to the LOAD side on the GFCI. But let's say you have installed a GFCI in a garage circuit and want to run a wire to the garage door opener from that circuit without the garage door opener receptacle being protected by the GFCI but still want all other receptacles protected. Reason being that the garage door opener will trip the GFCI more often than not. You may also want to have a receptacle for a freezer in the garage. You do not want that freezer protected by the GFCI circuit as it may trip without your knowledge and cause all the food to spoil. Warning: Only install a single plug receptacle for the freezer and not a double plug receptacle. That way only one thing, the freezer, can be plugged into this receptacle as it is not GFCI protected. The way to avoid the breaker tripping is to connect the garage door opener & freezer receptacle to the LINE side of the GFCI. This way it is not protected by the GFCI and there is no danger of that receptacle loosing power due to a tripped breaker on the GFCI. When the GFCI trips power will still be available at any receptacle connected on the line side. On any GFCI you can connect two sets of wires to the LINE side. If you have more than two you will have to connect those together under a wire nut and then use a jumper wire to connect to the LINE on the GFCI. Look at the photo and you will see the 2 sets of holes to connect at the LINE side (Bottom) on the back of the GFCI receptacle. There are also 2 sets of holes to connect on the LOAD side (Upper). Of course you would use a wire nut and jumper to connect all the ground wires.
1. Did you connect the neutral wire (white) from the breaker to the neutral bar? 2. Did you connect the circuit neutral wire (white) to the circuit breaker. If there is a neutral load the load MUST be connected to the breaker no to the panel neutral bar. 3. If this is a 50A load, what is the appliance connected to the circuit? If it is a range, quite often the newer ranges have a ground wire connected to the burner mount. A small current leakage in the element can trip the GFCI. Check each element (with power off) from the wiring terminals to ground with an ohm meter.
Usually the washer circuit is a seperate 20A circuit. The lights would be on a different circuit usually 15A. Check your panel and see if there is a 20 breaker tripped. Hopefully your panel is labeled (or it should be) Are you saying this tripped while using the extension cord? Another possibility is that it is controlled by a GFCI outlet. You can connect additional receptacles to a GFCI outlet to protect them. Check to see if you have a GFCI receptacle tripped (in garage, bathrrom etc)
This is probably not a faulty breaker. A GFCI breaker is designed to trip when there is a 4-6ma inbalance of current(usually 5) between the two current carrying conductors (hot and nuetral) You may be having a moisture problem. Check all of your electrical connections (with power off) for moisture. If you find any throughly dry (like with hair dryer) and seal to prevent further problems. Your motor may be an open drip proof motor. IF condensation builds inside that coud also cause problem. There are GFCI testers available if you wanted to test your breaker, but for one time it probably isn't practical.
The lights may all be on the same circuit, but are they all connected to the GFCI (as in if you hit the test button do all the lights go off with the GFCI)? If so that's ok, but not really necessary. The places you see lights connected to GFCI's are in bathroom lighting where there is a built in receptacle in the light that can be used by someone. If it is only a light I see no reason for it to be connected, which brings me to my last point. If the lights are not connected to the GFCI the GFCI may still be drawing current from the circuit. A GFCI is a device that protects a person using anything plugged into it by sensing a rise in current. Many times a GFCI can be faulty or ultra senstive, where even the smallest amount of current can trip it. Replace your GFCI and the problem should fix itself. Just make sure to connect nothing to the side taped with yellow tape (the load side) if nothing was connected to the load side before (the lights would be connected here if they were before).
I have seen circuit breakers trip at a lower amperage. It seems that they are weak. Generally circuit breakers run with 80% load with no problem, in your case 24 amps. I would replace the circuit breaker.