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First, I am assuming that this is a residential gas fired furnace. 1. The first thing that will happen once the furnace gets a call for heat is the small draft inducer motor will come on. 2. The pressure switch should close. If the switch is not closing, here is a list of possible reasons: 1. The draft inducer motor is not running. 2. There is a restriction in the flue or heat exchanger. 3. The tubing from the pressure switch is not connected or has a leak. 4. The pressure switch may be defective or stuck open. Note: this is not an exhaustive list, but should cover the most common causes. Also, you may have to unplug the furnace and then plug it back in before it will try to come on. It may be locked out on the control board because of the pressure switch fault. I hope this helps!
If the inducer runs for a short time and shuts off and the main blower comes on and runs it could be a high limit switch or a roll out switch.it could also be a pressure switch that is stuck in the closed position. Most new furnaces have to read the pressure switch in the open position and then the closed position after the inducer fan starts. . Hope this helps.
TRI-COLOR (DSI LED) DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
No. of Red BLINKS
1 Flame sensed when no flame should be present
Verify the gas valve is operating and shutting down properly. Flame in burner assemble should extinguish promptly at the end of the cycle. Check orifices and gas pressure.
3 BLINKS 1st-stage pressure switch stuck open/inducer error
Check pressure switch function and tubing. Verify inducer is turning on the pulling sufficient vacuum to engage switch.
4 BLINKS Open limit switch Verify continuity through rollout switch circuit.
5 BLINKS Open rollout/open fuse detect Verify continuity through rollout switch circuit, check fuse.
6 BLINKS 1st-stage pressure switch cycle lockout If the first stage pressure switch cycles 5 times (open, closed) during one call for heat from the thermostat the control will lockout.Check pressure switch for fluttering, inconsistent closure or poor vacuum pressure.
7 BLINKS External lockout (retries exceeded) Failure to sense flame is often caused by carbon deposits on the
flame sensor, a disconnected or shorted flame sensor lead or a
poorly grounded furnace. Carbon deposits can be cleaned with
emery cloth. Verify sensor is not contacting the burner and is locatedin a good position to sense flame. Check sensor lead for shortingand verify furnace is grounded properly.
8 BLINKS External lockout (ignition recycles
exceeded where flame is established and then lost)Check items for exceeded retries listed above and verify valve is not dropping out allowing flame to be established and then lost.
9 BLINKS Grounding or Reversed polarity Verify the control and furnace are properly grounded. Check and reverse polarity (primary) if incorrect.
10 BLINKS Module gas valve contacts energized
with no call for heat Verify valve is not receiving voltage from a short. If a valve wiring is correct and condition persists, replace module.
11 BLINKS Limit switch open - possible blower
failure overheating limit Possible blower failure, restricted air flow through appliance or duct work. Verify continuity through limit switch circuit and correct overheating cause.
12 BLINKS Module Ignitor contact failure Fault code indicates the module ignitor contacts are not functioning
properly. Replace module.Solid Module - internal fault condition Module contacts for gas valve not operating or processor fault.
Reset control. if condition persists replace module.
3 double 2nd-stage Pressure Switch Stuck Open/Inducer Error
Check pressure switch function and tubing. Verify inducer.
That thang might be sensing a lazy flame. In other words the flames took too long in the board's opinion to quit sensing the flame. Yall probably need to do pressure tap on the gas valve. Here is a realistic look at goodman fault codes and what to check fer and I am assuming you are not a tech and don't know this already and am hoping it helps:
Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.
Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.
Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.
Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.
Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.
Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.
Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.
See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.
Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.
Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.
Now here is how it should all go down:
Bottom dollar: it all goes back to type of gas, the initial setup, the pressure tap. and how it is wired up to begin with. This will give you an idea where to start I hope.
The pressure switch requires a negative pressure (vacuum) to close the contacts. It is measuring the pressure in the inducer and indirectly ensure there is good combustion airflow throught the heat exchanger. Check for a small vacuum, in the neighborhood of 1" water column. Usually the vacuum required to close the switch is stamped on the vacuum switch. Check the vent pipe for obstructions and correct size and installation.
If the pressure aka vacuum switch does not close the furnace will not continue with ignition, for safety reasons.
The pressure switch, open or closed depends on the induce fan motor. the switch could of failed. Try blowing into it, in and out. And or your induce fan motor is not blowing out the excessive heat out of the furnace properly. We provide repairs in the So Cal Area.
Check the intake and exhaust plumbing for any obstructions. I had same issue, turned out to be ice in the air intake plumbing on outside of house. This may be the problem. The pressure switch can be tested by pulling hose from purge motor that goes to switch and applying a small amount of suction. The switch should make a clicking sound.
most forced draft fans are powered by 120 volts . close to the fan is usually a plug that unsnaps. create a call for heat after turning off to clear safetys and see if your getting 120 to fan on initial call for heat. if you are then fan draft motor is bad, usually sold as an entire assembly replace exact as it came out. sequence of operation is..... stat calls for heat via common and white wire to furnace , 24 volts. ......board sences call and sends 120 volts to forced draft ........ motor runs and creates pressure on proofing switch,....... switch closes 24 to board and tells it draft fan is on......... board then energizes ignitor,....... after ignitior glows gas valve is opened and burner lights ........ either ignitor or seperate sensor rod tells board the burner lit........ and a few minutes later the fan comes on and hot air is blown out. if a step is missed or doesn't proof the furnace either trys up to three times to light or locks out. turning off power usually resets safetys and it will resume attempts to lite normally.