Question about GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Blower doesn't blow and no heat

Tested with meter t'stats and heating coil and get a reading on all. Could it be the blower? How do I test if it is?

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  • Anonymous Nov 06, 2008

    I have the same problem, no air coming out the exhaust tube in the back, not working for 2 weeks looked on line and thought it was the sensors or heating coil, thank god I did'nt try and do myself. Called the GE 1-800-626-2000 and he came today, the problem is the blower motor bottom line is it will cost 209.00 to fix but has to get the motor maybe another 2-3 days

  • jeeper357 Nov 09, 2008

    Have a similar problem except for the fact that the blower motor will come on intermittently. I have tested the t-stats and everything checks out ok. I have even taken readings through the motor windings and they all came out in the ok range ~14 ohms. It can hear the motor getting power but it only lasts about 5 sec. and the rotor just locks up. I don't know if the motor is bad, or the board or what. Any help would be greatly appriciated

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With these GE Harmony Profiles, the blower is the problem in same situations about 95% of the time.

First use the dryers service mode and see what trouble code you are receiving.

It's called "Field Service Mode"
1. Press the POWER key to turn the dryer on.
2. Press HELP. The main help screen is displayed.
3. Press and hold MY CYCLES and BACK simultaneously for 3 seconds. Press EXIT to return to the HOME screen.

There's a 95% chance that it is your blower and your dryer should confirm that.

I just recently replaced the blower in my GE Profile Harmony as well. While I had my dryer apart, I also cleaned the heck out of it. Excellent opportunity to take your vaccum cleaner and get all of those dust bunnies out!

I purchased the blower from www.applicancepartpros.com for about $146 S&H included.


Part No. AP3791484 Item: Motor asm-blower Price $133.05 Plus Shipping.

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

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Continues to blow the high temp stat. I clean the blower and replaced the venting. I also replaced the heating coil the dryer heats up for a load and then it stopss heating. I test the high temp stat


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q

Feb 17, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer doesn't blow any heat 11074972300


Check heating element with Ohm meter should read something.
Infinite reading means the coil has burnt out. replace.

Nov 04, 2012 | Kenmore 95087 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have an electric whirlpool dryer model# wed5300sq0 and it stopped heating. Still operates just no heat. Figured it must be the heating element so i ordered and replaced it. I also tested the fuse and...


Hi dustin me413...
Try some of these tests to locate your problem

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Apr 26, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

I have a kenmore dyer series 70 mod-110 78702895 ser-MJ24117394. It won't blow hot air anymore and it continues to run blowing room temperature air well past it's normal run time. It ran over the whole...


You have two problems Dan.
#1...Your timer is defective, that is what is causing the machine to run and not shut off. If the timer is not defective, then it will be the electronic board which also controls the heating element.
#2...I will give you the basic repair info:

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Sep 24, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have maytag bravos and doesnt blow hot air just cold . i checked went its ok . i think thats heat sensor ? located inside black plastic with one one terminal plog in ? im looking for replacment


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Please rate me

Sep 18, 2010 | Maytag Bravos 7.0 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Blower wokers and tub workis blows cool air not hot


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back of the machine and try to
locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find
the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove
the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it
is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing
the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace
the thermostat/thermistor.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause
a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.

Good Luck, Hope this helps
Please do not forget to rate me, Thank you

Aug 10, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Drum rotates. No Heat. Kenmore Electric Dryer


check the thermal fuse on the top of blower wheel housing,also while your there take off the cover of the housing and clean all the lint out,if your fuse was popped the lint buildup did it,check outside and make sure the air from dryer is blowing out and is not blocked,if it is blow out vent line if it's a long run with a leaf blower,if the thermal fuse is good read out the heater with a meter and if that's good read out the t-stats

Nov 15, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer won't heat!had heating element and thermostats tested. tested good!had plug checked- 240. what do you suggest?


If your machine is running ok otherwise. Make sure that the blower to blow the air across the heating coil is working properly, if it is then:
Your problem may be caused because of a faulty timer switch...this would be my best guess.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

Oct 15, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

No heat and No blowing


Clogged lint filter, exhaust vent or outlet would reduce air flow but there would be some heating unless a high limit safety switch has tripped and needs to be reset.  There may be aa air flow switch that prevents the element from heating up if no air is flowing.  Blower wheel may have broken off at connection to motor shaft.

Jun 03, 2009 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

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