Unit is mounted in my big truck.
Pulled it out one day and heard a rattle. Opened the bottom and found one of those tuning screws floating around. (looks like a set screw, goes in one of the threaded tubes with the copper wire windings around it.) There are two hollow tubes without screws that I can see. A black one at the back left, and a brown one at the back center next to where the antenna hooks up through the back panel.
Seams like people can hear me for a good distance, but I lose them at 1/4 mile or less.
Also, the two empty tubes and the screw have no sign of the thread locking wax like stuff they used on the center screw .
I have worked on a few of these. And I believe the slug needs to be put back in the one next to the antenna,or you can look a the white lettering on the board next to it and it should say L11. It, will be right under your antenna connector. You, will need to have a tech do this so it can be set correctly. It takes a meter to get adjustment just, perfect, however. If, you would like to chance it, you, could put it back in and use a peace of rubber band between the slug and the housing to hold it in. I would try it with about 1/4 of the slug still showing out the top. But you really need a cb guy to check it, and your SWR.
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Re: loose tuning screw?
What you are looking at is a powdered iron core from one of the tuning coils in your unit. They are used to match circuits together. The brown tube is the one it is out of. The screw is used to match the output of the amplifier to the antenna. All systems are a little different so you need a way to fine tune the system. The closer the circuit is to matching, the more power it will transfer. The fact that the one tube is black and one is brown (and near the antenna output) leads me to conclude that it goes in the brown one. There definitely needs to be one on the antenna output to match it. The black one is probably plastic while the brown one is cardboard or fiber. If that is the case the black one never had a tuning coil because it is a fixed value inductor. How do you know how far to screw it in? If you have an SWR meter (or a friend you can borrow one from) hook it up, do a calibration, put it in the "reflected mode", and while transmitting turn the screw in until the meter drops to it's lowest and begins to rise, then back it out 1/2 a turn. You should see the meter begin at a high level and drop as you turn in the screw. This is because as you get the system impedance closer to a match there is less reflected wave and more signal propagated from the antenna. This should result in improved reception for you and your friends. It would also be a good idea to put a drop of household glue on the screw threads to lock it in place. Don't overdo it though because you may need to retune it in the future if you get a new antenna or change anything in the system. Good luck.
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Why did you need to clean the carb? Routine servicing of the aircleaner would keep the carb clean for life. The pilot screw should be 1.5 turns out approx. with a small adjustment either way. Idle speed is set to a smooth low idle.If this doesn't fix it have you got something in the carb not replaced correctly? The float needle/float assy? How did you clean it? Have you introduced fluff/dirt into the carb and did you blow it clean with an airline?
Yes it can be repaired. Any Raymarine dealer should be able to help you out. If you can't find a local dealer, email me: firstname.lastname@example.org and I can give you pricing on the repair. I would need your serial number of the pilot.
I fixed a similar problem I was having. It requires a little work.
Take out the four screws from under the broken speaker. Carefully
remove the cover, separating the speaker from the base. The two are
wired together so don't pull them apart with force. Then remove the
single screw, which is much larger the the previous four, and separate
the speaker from the top cover.
If you chose you can remove the wires from the speaker, they just snap on, but its not required.
What I found is the speaker issue is not with the wire or the power,
but the speaker it's self. On the back there is a big round metal
piece. On my speaker that piece was pushed towards the front of the
speaker. When I looked at the good speaker, that big piece was all the
way back. So I simply pulled it back and presto, instant fix!
With Navman S80s screen froze only when trying to input home or destination address was working but suddenly started to screen freeze. Followed Gossages instruction and undid two bottom screw, then had to pop off side covers. Found two screws that where loose inside and floating around. Inspected the insides and found no Micro Card (clearly it is slightly different in manufacture) removed ribbon cable and re-installed, re assembled unit tested and everything back to normal, Ya? Dare say the loose screws floating around had caused a little short circuiting somewhere or perhaps ribbon cable connection was problem. Which ever a clean out of foreign material from inside did the trick?
You will need to replace the drain pump motor. The pump impeller has separated from the motor shaft. You can push it back on, but it will just come off again. I have not tried adding adhesive because I didn't want a call back. That may work if you want to try it. To replace pump motor:
Take the rectangular recess out by using a putty knife on the left or right side, Remove phillips screws mounting pump. Pull machine forward about two feet to allow you to tilt the machine back to lean it against the wall. Reach under to access the pump. It is held in place by a plastic tab you can depress to remove, but if you break the tab, don't worry, as the mounting screws will hold your pump in place just fine when reinstalled. Remove pump by disconnecting hoses and electrical plug. Change out pump motor (three phillips head screws)
Dishwashers are usually protected from overfilling by a float switch. This switch is located in the bottom of the unit. Here's how to check and replace it:Step 1: Open the door and remove the bottom dish rack. Check to see if the float valve is stuck. If it is, clean away food debris around the float. With a screwdriver handle, lightly tap the top of the float to free it.Step 2: If tapping doesn't work, remove the lower access panel and locate the bottom portion of the float and float switch. Test the float switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Unscrew one electrical lead wire to the switch terminal, and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. If the meter reads zero, the switch is not faulty. The trouble is probably in the timer. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty.Step 3: Replace the switch with a new one made to fit the dishwasher. The switch is held to a mounting bracket with screws; remove the screws to get the old switch out.Step 4: Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected
I just opened my DVP-FX810. I bought it used ($60) and the guy said some times he had problems with it. It has worked fine for 3 weeks. But then I heard something rattling around on the inside. When I opened it I found that one of the disc door springs was loose around in the case. Lucky it didn't short anything out or jam the gears. The plastic support is broken so I just removed the spring. To disassemble; Flip it over. Remove the battery. Remove all the visible screws. And yes, you have to remove the voided warranty warning sticker to get to one of the screws. So be aware of the consequences of your self repair. Also, there are four screws under the rubber pads in the corners. The rubber pad in the middle back did not have a screw under it. Once all (15) screws are removed then you can pry off the back panel. That is as far as I went. Hope this helps.