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your starter or solenoid is on its way out probably, if you know the battery is good, then this is a tell tale sign of a worn starter or solenoid on starter. press the helpful button and check link below
Certainly. Battery voltage causes the starter solenoid to move out to engage the starter. If you do not have enough voltage and battery amperage, the starter will not engage. Charge or replace the battery and check your battery connections. They need to be very clean as well.
Hi, Trevorelgram you turn on the ignition switch press the starter button and all you get is the dreaded "CLICK" now before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid must not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. Disconnect spark plug cables, with a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 9.6 volts DC. If the voltage is below 9.6 the battery is faulty and must be replaced. I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery typically they have more amperage for cranking.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buying a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Motorcycle not starting Clicking noises FIX starter relay clicks bike won start Starter Relay solenoid Clicking NOT the battery Suzuki GSX Motorcycle... So Your Starter Is Just Clicking My bike won start and makes fast clicking sound
Take a look at the starter solenoid. There are two larger wires, on the back. One from the battery positive, (main hot wire), the other goes to the starter motor (If you jump these terminals the starter will spin but will not engage the flywheel). Look at the wires and nuts on the solenoid, especially the starter motor side make sure they are clean and tight, have not gotten hot and started rusting. Also check the voltage on the solenoid wire, (smallest) wire from the start button. In some cases there is a voltage loss on this wire. Next time it will not engage the starter right away, make a jump from the main power battery terminal on the starter to the solenoid wire. If it starts right up every time, you need to add and wire in another relay to carry the voltage to the solenoid from the start button, (a relay to work the solenoid, lol). If that test does not work or help.. Tap on the starter motor with a hammer. if it catches and turns the engine then, the motor brushes are worn and need to be replaced.
I know you had the starter tested but i still thing you have one of two things going on here, first acid damage to the Positive battery cable at the battery, if this is present you will notice the outside of the cable seems swelled yo under the red insulator, this causes low voltage, enough to click the starter solenoid but not enough to turn the starter motor. The other problem is burnt contact inside the starter solenoid itself, this problem will cause a clicking noise from the solenoid with no starter engagement, it very common. The starter solenoid is near the battery just follow the Positive cable from the battery to it, carefully jumper across it, does the starter engage? Here is a picture of the starter solenoid.
That symptom usually means the solenoid on the starter is bad and no longer is completing the circuit to engage the starter. A new starter will likely solve that issue.
A series of rapid clicks would indicate a week battery.
You can try repeatedly turning the key to the start position rapidly, sometimes the starter wil start working.
You can also try tapping the starter while somebody holds the key in the start position, if the starter engages place it.
Sounds like the starter is bad. The one click would be the solenoid on the starter engaging but the starter does not turn. If it does not click the next time you try to start, then that would indicate the solenoid is sticking. Also ensure that the cable to starter is good and the connections are tight. The starter will have 2 wires. 1 heavy wire that runs the starter itself and a lighter wire that runs the solenoid. The second wire seems good. Also ensure there is not an inline fuse in the starter cable. Some cable incorporate the inline fuse in case the wire shorts out to the chassis.