I recently purchased a used d110 and am getting no output out of it. Led on front stays red. If i partially remove one of the RCAs i will get a loud hum, but no results otherwise. I have tried all inputs I have available to me with no different results. Any suggestions?
The D110 I have has a shorted C6 cap also . I was told that Best buy had repair it before but he did not remember what they did. The C6 cap is NP 4.7uf @100v .Should I use aNP 10uf @100v ?and if it shorts with 100v cap is something else in the circuit that should be changed ? thanks
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the advantage is every time you split a pre-amp signal, the voltage, too, divides in half. Your signal (music) is going down the river at 2 volts say, and when it gets to the amplifier, it is split into 4 streams. The signal will be distorted and the amplifier will not work as efficiently. Use the Front AND rear RCAs so your amplifier uses the best possible signal - for the best possible results!
Also, if you are using 4 RCAs you get true stereo FL FR RR RL Instead of L and R
In G5 always the cover should be closed properly if not it will start the fan very fast like a blower and the red leds will be on showing that the heat is over so please check that the cover is closed and locked from behind so itworks smooth and the power supply is standard or normal
u should always use genune parts with mac..
Your audio output transistors are shorted and your unit is staying in "protect " mode to protect your speakers from 40 to 60 volts that is being sent at them from the shorted outputs. If you can use a meter you won't need the schematic MOST likely because the outputs are USUALLY the only parts that short out. The output transistors( or chip ) are mounted to the large, finned heatsink. The #'s on the transistors start with "2SA-" and "2SC-" followed by numbers. There are two output transistors per channel. If your unit uses an IC for audio output then the # on the IC will be "STK-" followed by numbers. These parts are available from tritronicsinc.com. Good Luck!
If the protection LED lights only after the remote voltage is applied (head unit is switched on), the amplifier likely has shorted output transistors. If the protection LED remains lit without remote voltage applied, the amp may have other problems.
Does the protection LED light with no speaker wires connected to the amp and no RCAs plugged into the amp?
There is a standby indication that activates after 10-15 minutes without any input signal. I suspect that might be what the red light is telling you - no signal.
Loud hum from a loosened cable is normal as hum usually means there's an ungrounded connection somewhere acting as an antenna and the amp is doing its job to amplify what it thinks is a signal, in this case 60hz stray ac current is being sensed nearby. It's a good sign that you get hum from the sub because that means the amp is alive.
Avoid manipulating cable connections with the Sub or Receiver turned on as you could introduce a static spike that could harm any connected equipment.
Are you certain a bass signal is making it into the sub? The complexities of modern AV receivers vary in how you configure them to direct LFE to a sub. Bone up on that end of the chain.
Or, just hang a CD player on the Inputs of the sub and play something with a reassonable amount of Low Frequencies.
>>>> Be advised that this way of testing has NO VOLUME CONTROL because amps without volume controls always operate at maximum gain, relying on your external controls to attentuate it (hence, the loud hum from a loose cable); so choose a track that eases into the loud parts with some quiet parts up front and BE READY TO PAUSE THE PROGRAM AT ANY SIGNS OF STRESS. <<<<
A living sub will produce only muffled rumble in the absence of other speakers producing the higher frequencies which carry the intelligence of the signal. If that works, back to the receiver for settings. If not... sigh.
For hum problems, even those you cause yourself:
Disconnect all inputs to see if that helps. If it goes away start with the signal cables and add in things until it comes back.
Sometimes the reversing the orientation of the AC plug can help with hum. Or it could be something like a loose or high resistance connection internal to the sub. Good luck.