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Electric range burner not hot enough

I replaced the burner receptacle on my whirlpool electric range. The burner element heats up but is not hot enough.

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  • darticus Dec 28, 2008

    just bought it oeven works burners will not heat enough to boil water after 30 minutes

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5 Suggested Answers

the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: problem with electric range

Most likely the switch has welded closed

Posted on Sep 28, 2007


huuum
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool electric range burner power light stays on but no heat

Hello givemeanidth.
Welcome to Fixya

You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner, no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to that one burner only.

What is the model number and the age of your range?

Waiting for your reply.
Huuum

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: I have an electric range

You need to replace the burner switches. Thanks, please leave feedback or contact me again for more info if you need it.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Range Stove Top Indicator Light Stays Lit

Hi, You will need to change the burner switch as well. It shorted out when the element went bad.
Please let me know if I can assist you with part # or anything else.

Vic

Posted on May 30, 2009

marka19
  • 1430 Answers

SOURCE: GE Electric range coil burner does not work on low

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/infiniteswitchvideo.html that will walk you thru testing this. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Posted on Jul 27, 2010

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2 Answers

The right front burner will not get hot. It is only warm never hot. The burner doesn't turn bright red even when tuned up on high.


hello, try changing that front element(burner)if its easily removable to another side that is working normal. If the element is still dull not heating or glowing normal then replace the element, but if it does, then there is something wrong with the front right element switch or the receptacle.

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Hello,

If one of your burner heating elements works only intermittently, it's probably because of worn or bad contacts in the receptacle that the element plugs into. On most electric ranges, you can remove the element by lifting it up several inches and firmly pulling it away from its attachment (receptacle). Read your owner's manual to learn the correct technique for your range. If, after removing the element, you see that the ends of the element that were plugged in are pitted, corroded, burned, scarred, or rusted, replace both the element and the receptacle.

Take care.

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Hi,
The reason for Maytag electric burner not to heat up is that the heating element had exploded and there was white powder all over the inside of the oven. Replacing the heating element will make it work.
Also would recommend having the following cross verified:
· Element terminals have loose connections? Reposition the element.
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Thank You for using Fixya.com

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Hi, You will need to change the burner switch as well. It shorted out when the element went bad.
Please let me know if I can assist you with part # or anything else.

Vic

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When the burner went, it took out the switch that controls it. The contacts inside the switch have welded together. That switch needs to be replaced. You should also look at the receptacle that the burner plus into. That may have been the original cause of all the problems. The contacts in them often wear causing the burner to src inside the receptacle. These parts should be readily available from Sears: burner control (infinie) switch, Burner receptacle.

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Unplug the range and remove the problem elements.
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Check the receptacle you burner plugs in to. There are only three items to a burner. The switch, supply power. The receptacle where the element plugs into and of course the burner itself. You say you replaced the burner and has electric up to the element. How are you testing this voltage? Perhaps you are only reading 110 volts and your burner needs 220 volts to operate. Double check these item s and let me know if I can help further.

Waiting to hear from you,
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1 Answer

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Sounds like you are only getting 120 volts. All heating elements require 240 volts to operate. Start by taking the covers off the back of the range and looking for loose or burnt off wires. Look first at were the range cord connects onto the range. If all OK with range wires, check wires inside range receptacle (where the range cord plugs in) and also the connections on the household circuit breaker or fuses. If you use a meter to test for 240, you may see it, but if a connection is poor, it may not be good enough to supply the required power.

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3 Answers

Whirlpool electric range burner power light stays on but no heat


Hello givemeanidth.
Welcome to Fixya

You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner, no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to that one burner only.

What is the model number and the age of your range?

Waiting for your reply.
Huuum

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1 Answer

Surface element doesn't work


When an electric element doesn't work, either it isn't receiving electric power or it's likely that the element or receptacle it plugs into is faulty. Check the other elements. If none work, the circuit breaker has probably tripped. Reset it at the electric panel. If this reoccurs, call an appliance repairperson. If just one burner isn't working, try to pinpoint the source of the problem-- likely a bad element/burner or a problem with its connection receptacle. In some cases it's the switch or the wiring. To replace a bad switch or repair the wiring or replace the receptacle, call an appliance repairperson. A burner that plugs into a receptacle is easy to test. After turning off the range's power at the main electrical panel, just unplug the non-heating burner, plug it into another working receptacle, restore the power to the range, and test it. If the burner works, you know its original receptacle is probably faulty. If it doesn't work in the good receptacle, the burner is bad and should be replaced. Buy a replacement and simply plug it into the receptacle. When you remove the burner, look for burned wires or a charred receptacle. Check the receptacle or terminal block to see if it's cracked, loose or looks burned. If you notice any of the above signs, replace the faulty component, too. If the male burner prongs are corroded, always change the female receptacle it was plugged into. A flip-up burner requires a little more work. After turning off the power, tilt up the burner, unscrew the small screw that holds it, and then slide it out. Disassemble the insulator block by prying off the clips. Then unscrew the wires from the element, replace with a new burner, and reassemble. To test a burner with a multi-meter: First remove the burner from its receptacle, as discussed above. Set the multi-meter to the Rx100 setting (or, for a digital meter, to [omega symbol] or k[omega symbol]. With the red lead connected to the positive jack and the black lead to the negative jack, touch the black probe on one of the heating element's terminals and touch the red probe to the other terminal. The needle should jump from the infinity reading to the right, indicating a properly "closed" circuit. If it doesn't, try the probes on a different part of the metal contacts. Still no reading? Touch the two leads together to make sure the meter is working (the needle should jump). If it works, there is an internal break in the element and it will need to be replaced. When you're finished, turn the power back on.

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