Question about KitchenAid KWCU265HSS Kitchen Hood
The fan on the hood stopped working (i.e., nothing happens when I turn it on).
From this wiring diagram: http://www.fixya.com/support/p106093-kitchenaid_kwcu265hss_kitchen_hood/manual-13670/page-9, you can see that the hood has two circuit boards. One for slided switches and speed control (Part Number: AP3133509 made by WHIRLPOOL), and one for motor control (Part Number: AP3105889 made by WHIRLPOOL ).
My best guess was that the motor control board went bad, so I ordered a new motor control board to replace it. You will see five wires coming out of the speed control portion of the first board. The white wire goes directly to the fan motor, but the other four (blue, orange, black, and black), go to the motor-control board which also has four wires of the same colors.
OK. Blue to blue, orange to orange. No problem. But what about the two black wires coming from the speed controller and going to the two black wires on the motor-control board? Does it matter how these are connected? I figured if it mattered, they would also be color coded, so I just connected black to black, black to black (random order). When I turned on the fan, it blew out my new motor-control board.
I have a new motor-control board. I was going to try reversing the two black wire connections, but don't want to blow out another board. So, my question is, do you think it is important to match a specific black wire on the motor-control board to a specific black wire coming from the speed controller? It seems strange to me that it would work this way, as these wires snake around through the hood, and it virtually impossible to tell which is which when when they reach the motor-control board. I don't know how they would be been matched during original assembly. But I can't think of any other problem.
By the way, I was able to by-pass the motor-control board and run the fan directly, so I don't think the problem is with the fan motor. I have also replaced the control board used for the slider switches and speed control, so the problem is not there either.
Thought welcome. Thanks.
SOURCE: Mixer works at high speed only
You might have someone repair it for you; here is a place that charges a flat fee of $69.95 and thats including the return shipping. Check 'em out:http://www.marbeck.com/repair_mixer_kitchenaid.html The speed controller board sounds like the right direction but it hard to know if that is the issue until you install a new part. This is a known issue as far as I have heard around the internet. You might give KA a call and see if they can help; all they can say is no. I have heard they revised the part to fix the problem; my brother had a couple of boards replaced on his pro model and now it seems fine. Good luck!
Posted on Aug 19, 2007
hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .
Posted on Mar 16, 2008
I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.
I agree. It sounds like your neighbor is doing well. I would replace the control board too. Sounds like a nice guy. Time to invite him over for a bbq?
Feel free contact me again!
Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off
Harvey your Master Plumber
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.
Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.
New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.
I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.
Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.
Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)
Now for the wiring:
Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #
L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2
On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).
Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....
Hope this helps.....
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
SOURCE: Mixer won't start
I have a PDF file entitled "kitchenaid service manual" that I could send you that I got online and can't remember where. If so my email address is email@example.com Send me an email and I'll reply with the PDF enclosed. Otherwise try a google search of the above and you might be able to find it.
It's looks old but covers all the essentials including a wiring diagram
Posted on May 07, 2009
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