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Re: how to change the stop-**** (plumbing)?
Shut off all water to the house and drain the system at the lowest point. If you have an electric water heater it would be a good idea to turn the power off to it in case the heater is drained by the hydraulic action. If this occurs the element may burn out. Once this is done you can use a wrench on the nipple protruding through the wall and another wrench on the stop to unscrew it. Remember to use teflon tape or thread sealant compound when installing the new stop.
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Yes possible orange damage, could be the threads are comprised too.. also alot of times they are not tightened enough, I usually grab 2 sets of pliers and tighten mine that way... U can also use some Teflon tape on the threads ala plumbing ..
All the plumbing on these items are accessed from the outside. You will have to remove the siding/skirt. Dont just cut a hole in it. Plan this out so that you can cover it with trim. You may end up making a large slice in the siding.
A leaking from a pipe (but from a soldered or threaded connection point) should be replaced - not repaired. Chances are good that the wall thickness of the pipe has been reduced all along the pipe's length. This means that even if you "seal" the existing leaks, new ones will probably pop up fairly soon.
If you insist on attempting a seal, you may have luck with JB Weld'sWaterWeld. JB Weld products are available from most hardware stores, home centers, etc. WaterWeld is designed for plumbing repairs like yours. This should stop the leak at this location - but beware of new leaks, later.
If its leaking at the point u can unscrew it u must .... Step1, unscrw the head and take out the rubber. go to plumbing shop get a new rubber of that size and thread tape. Step 2, put the rubber in and fasen it up. if that dosent stop the leak put thread tape on the thread CLOCKWISE and fasen it again and bobs ur uncel it should be fixed
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****if its the tank supply line and one of the connections is leaking tighten the connection if stops done if continues to leak go to hardware ,home,or plumbing store for replacement $4-7 dollars turn shutoff valve off flush toilet to get most water out of way and disconnect line replace ****----if joint where valve is connected to main water feed if threaded try tightening connection if soldered will need to turn of water to bathroom or house and drain line and resolder connection same of pressure connection/threaded valve failure
you will have to get a replacement from the manifacture,, they will send it to you, call them tell them wich one it is hot or cold they may have diffrent threads then again they may be the same,,,can you get the threaded part out of the faucet, you will need an extractor, you can get this at a hardware store, it has a rubber seal so you can only tighten it so much, get it ot try again but be gentle,, one thing I found after doing plumbing for 34 years if you snug it and it leaks you can always snug it some more if you over tighten it you can't do anything but replace it,,,, good luck let me know how it goes
turn off the valves disconnect the hose check the threads on the water intake valve(bit the hose screws onto) are not damaged by cross threading. then try wrapping silk plumbing thread tape(available at all plumbong outlets including B&Q,Homebase etc.) around the threads(wind it clockwise and give it plenty)then check the rubber washer at the end of the hose is not damaged of missing and reconnect the hose
If the dishwasher leaks, and you know the problem is not related to tub overfilling, the pump, or inlet valve problems, the plumbing connections may be faulty. Most dishwashers are connected to the water supply with metal pipe fittings, and the leak could be at these fittings. If the fittings are threaded, tighten them with an adjustable wrench. If this doesn't work, chances are the threads are stripped or the fitting is cracked or otherwise damaged. In this case, replace the fitting. Most dishwashers discharge used water through a pipe or a hose connected to the drain or garbage disposer under the kitchen sink. If the drain line is made of flexible hosing, it may have cracked from prolonged exposure to hot water. Examine the hose; if it's damaged, replace it. If the hose is leaking at its connections with the disposer or dishwasher, tighten the fittings or clamps at the connections, or replace the clamps. Also check for water leaks around inlet valves, drain valves, and anywhere you see flexible hoses and hose connections. Leaks at clamps can be stopped by tightening or replacing the clamps. Leaks in hoses can be eliminated by replacing the hoses.
There, you will be able to buy an appliance hose and the fitting which is usually used to plumb these into the domestic water system (a stop valve with a compression fitting for hard tube on one end and a thread to take the hose on the other).
If you're replacing you're old machine with a new one, all you'll need to do is to trim the existing tube at a convenient place (with the water supply turned off) and fit the new stop valve. New dishwashers usually come with a hose, and that just screws onto the threaded end of the new stop valve.
Hints: The hose seals onto the metal fitting using a rubber washer that just sits between the two faces. This system works really well provided you don't try to "help" it with PTFE tape or anything like that. Moistening the threads with a drop of water to lubricate them sometimes helps, but then all you need to do is to assemble the joint (checking the rubber washer hasn't dropped out) and do the plastic nut up finger tight. Check it for leaks when you first use the machine. If it's all right for the first five minutes, it'll be all right for ever.
If you're trying to put your old machine back in, but with a hose to make it easier to move, you will need a second fitting with the same combination of connections as you used to connect the hose to the household plumbing - you may be able to get one without a built-in stop valve, but if you can't it doesn't really matter. Proceed as before, but attach a short stub of the tube you trimmed out in stage 1 to the inlet of the machine (using the existing coupling) and make the new fitting off to that.