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Re: how to change the stop-**** (plumbing)?
Shut off all water to the house and drain the system at the lowest point. If you have an electric water heater it would be a good idea to turn the power off to it in case the heater is drained by the hydraulic action. If this occurs the element may burn out. Once this is done you can use a wrench on the nipple protruding through the wall and another wrench on the stop to unscrew it. Remember to use teflon tape or thread sealant compound when installing the new stop.
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One rule I live by: more parts, more problems. Sounds to me that the plumbing/valves were not insalled properly. If you hired a profesional plumber, have them fix it. I am a licensed profesional plumber and I offer a 1 year warranty on all my work. If the contractor did the work and does not hold a plumbing license, that person is still responsible and may have to suffer legal consequenses.
It's a good idea tomake a regular habit of taking a full inspection of home plumbing whether ornot service is required. Unfortunately, most homeowners think of this as anunnecessary drudgery they'd rather not do. Yet, numerous times, professional NC plumbers advise regular home inspections of plumbing be performed. Once achecklist is created, the follow-up inspections become easier. Put on yourplumber's cap and make notes of any changes such as small leaks or unusualmoisture in kitchen, bathroom or basement plumbing.
Unfortunately this sounds like more than a blockage. If this was a blockage water would not drain, maybe fill in sink or dishwasher etc. If water is coming from walls probably means it is leaking from drain pipe in the wall. Which would mean opening wall to find leak.
They do make a compression coupling for galvanized pipe, but I don't trust them very much. When you unscrew the joint with a pipe wrench just make sure to back it up with another, so you don't start to unscrew the next joint back.
What you are doing is very hard to do without adding a union to the piping. There really isn't anything more you can do than what you already are doing. But if you have bubbled each joint and can't find anymore leaks then move to your valves. Also, flex lines have a tendency to leak as well. Like the ones that go to your water heater, stove/oven, furnace and small gas appliances. Check for the old style valves that don't meet code anymore like the valves with a bolt all the way through the valve. You will want to change them out to a ball valve. I hope this answers your question.