Question about Hoover Washing Machines

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HOOVER 510 PREMIER WASHING MACHINE ABOVE THE BELT SHAFT THERE IS A PLASTIC COG WHEN THE WASHING MACHINE IS ON WASH CYCLE IT SPINS FINE ONE WAY THEN ON THE REVERSE SPIN THER IS THIS ORANGE LEVER THAT MAKES THIS LOUD CLICKING NOISE RUBBING ON THE WHITE PLASTIC COG

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  • Master
  • 853 Answers

I imagine you've bought a new machine by now? The plastic gearcog is the clutch housing. The arm that clicks is part of the brake lever. On these models, the brake lever is supposed to hold the clutch in place during the wash cycle so that it slips in both directions to get a forward and reverse wash. On spin, the lever moves away releasing the clutch and gearbox brake and allowing the bowl and agitator to spin together. The brake lever wears and allows the gearbox to slip during the wash cycle. When this happens, the clutch housing will "ratchet" past the brake lever tongue. this causes the "clicking" noise in 1 direction.

Posted on Mar 08, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Loud noise when spinning

I agree with Gittos on the bearing assessment. This considered part of the drive system. If it's less than 5 years old, your next move is to contact Sears and claim a warranty repair on the tranny (it has a 5 year warranty on it). If it's more than 5? Well, honestly it wouldn't be worth the repair. You'd have spent more money on all the parts required than what the unit is worth (worth= what it would sell for in working condition on the market). Hope it's less than 5!

Posted on Aug 12, 2007

natengel
  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: washing machine will not spin makes loud humming noise

motor coupling needs to be replaced

Posted on Nov 05, 2007

clusterfx
  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: loud squeal during wash and spin cycles, maytag atlantis washer

Squealing normal occurs due to belt slippage. I would check your belts (look for cracks. Check the belt tension as well, most washers have an adjustment, normally on the motor that allows you to increase the tension of the belt.

If part of a belt gets torn and it is long enough, it will hit any part of the washing machine within range and make a clicking noise at every revolution of the motor.

I am pretty sure you need new belts. You should be able to remove a few screws and open the back cover. Between the pulleys there is a tensioner...loosen that so you can remove the belt easily. replace it with a new belt and adjust the tension.

hope this helps

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

dauphine
  • 207 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine making whining noise during spin only

Yes, bearing, most definitely. It is a cheap part but difficult to replace.

Posted on Apr 11, 2008

Lumpy816
  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle

The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 Series washing machine - loud banging at end of spin

With the lid open, set the cycle to spin and press the lid switch button with a pen. Wait until the drum gets to full speed and release the lid switch. If the drum makes a knocking/ thumping noise and doesn't stop spinning within 2-3 seconds, the basket drive block is worn and needs to be replaced. (The basket drive block is located on the gearcase drive shaft, under the tub and agitator) If this has been happening for a long time you may need to replace the brake and drive tube assembly as well.
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Basket drive block part number is 389140

If that's not it, let me know and I will try to help you further.
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
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Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. 

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

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  • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.


If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

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Reduce the amount of soap you use in each wash if this is the case. It sounds like your washing machine is working right.

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A repair person can determine which is it. I cant tell from here. However,
If you do this test you can eliminate one of the above. Lift the lid of the washer, hold the rim of the inner-tub and spin it clockwise and then anti-clockwise. If it spins both ways, you have a bad bearing which needs replacing.

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