Question about Hoover Washing Machines
I imagine you've bought a new machine by now? The plastic gearcog is the clutch housing. The arm that clicks is part of the brake lever. On these models, the brake lever is supposed to hold the clutch in place during the wash cycle so that it slips in both directions to get a forward and reverse wash. On spin, the lever moves away releasing the clutch and gearbox brake and allowing the bowl and agitator to spin together. The brake lever wears and allows the gearbox to slip during the wash cycle. When this happens, the clutch housing will "ratchet" past the brake lever tongue. this causes the "clicking" noise in 1 direction.
Posted on Mar 08, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Loud noise when spinning
I agree with Gittos on the bearing assessment. This considered part of the drive system. If it's less than 5 years old, your next move is to contact Sears and claim a warranty repair on the tranny (it has a 5 year warranty on it). If it's more than 5? Well, honestly it wouldn't be worth the repair. You'd have spent more money on all the parts required than what the unit is worth (worth= what it would sell for in working condition on the market). Hope it's less than 5!
Posted on Aug 12, 2007
occurs due to belt slippage. I would check your belts (look for cracks.
Check the belt tension as well, most washers have an adjustment,
normally on the motor that allows you to increase the tension of the
If part of a belt gets torn and it is long enough, it will hit any part of the washing machine within range and make a clicking noise at every revolution of the motor.
I am pretty sure you need new belts. You should be able to remove a few screws and open the back cover. Between the pulleys there is a tensioner...loosen that so you can remove the belt easily. replace it with a new belt and adjust the tension.
hope this helps
Posted on Feb 23, 2008
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
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