Furnace pilot is on, pilot ignitor continues to click, no main flame
I have a Carrier Weathermaker SX model 58SX060-CC-1, series 150, 66,000 BTU furnace. The intake/exhaust fan starts when the thermostat tells it to, the pilot lights, but the main flame does not ignite. The pilot ignitor continues to click like it does not notice the pilot is lit (I think). The thermostat is connected also to an A/C system, all of which works fine (main house air circulation is good).
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Removing the front cover or turning the line switch off and back on causes a "HARD" reset to the furnace. That means, it breaks the line or supply voltage to the furnace and causes the main control board to reset. The main reason for requiring a hard reset is a failure to fire up correctly. There are several reasons for this to happen. If or when the flame sensor detects a flame determines the whole process. When the thermostat calls for heat, the ignition controller delivers spark to the pilot assembly and the pilot gas valve opens. If the sensor detects a pilot flame, the main gas valve opens and the main burners ignite. The pilot flame can be pulled away from the sensor when the main gas opens just long enough to cause this type of failure before the main flame is sensed. The furnace will shut down thinking it is feeding in raw gas with no pilot present to ignite it. All of this happens in just a few seconds. If there is a small window in the burner cover, you can watch it fire after the reset for a clue to the cause. If there is not an inspection window with a sealed combustion chamber to watch it through, it would be best to call a good tech. as it is dangerous with such a short period to ignite while all that gas is flooding the combustion chamber. Check to see if the line from the pilot to the gas valve is tight. If possible, try to move the sensor a little closer to the pilot. If this does not work, best to call a tech. who is familiar with your furnace. Other test with an open combustion chamber are very dangerous and best left to the pros.
Check the pilot lt. If its out shutdown your furnace and call a repairman. If the pilot light is on, the flame sensor might have gone out. It's a long silver sensor that sits in the pilot light flame and senses when the flame is present. If it isn't working the furnace will automatically shut down.
I believe this is the furnace with a spark to light the pilot light. If so the best advice I can give is to replace the whole pilot assembly. There is a very old style flame sensor in there that is not serviceable. This has driven many a technician around the bend.
**NOTE: It is a real pain to get out, and back in. You need to take off the fire box cover and the panel underneath it to get it out. You also need to take the pilot tube off the gas valve. This may be something that you want to call a service tech for. It could be a little tricky and because you are dealing with gas, you want to make sure that it is put together correctly and safely.
Remove all power from the furnace, it is likely the brain in the furnace is need of being reset, from the battery replacement, why did you change the battery, was there an indicator telling you to change it?
Many times just removing all the power to the furnace will do the trick with a reset, if not let me know and we will go from there, but it sounds like the main brain is confused or bad, more likely confused, so try the power removed first.
There are 4 -steps for full run time to kick in a furnace.. step-1, inducer fan runs & prove thru the air tube which closes a switch and tell the circuit board to go to step-2, the igniter lights the pilot & prove its lit by heating the thermocouple, which tells the circuit board to go to step-3, opens the gas valve to dump gas in, which will light from the pilot light, and prove by a flame sensor metal stick on the last burner , which heats up and tell the circuit board Saying, ok , I've got flame.. step-4. when the box heats up, it closes a switch and turn on the main fan...! (Some gas-valves has a brain -or circuit board on top of them and are real sensetive to moisture..)
I have serviced these furnaces for 20 years and I can tell you most of these models did not have diagnostic lite on them. (although some did, especially if the control board has been replaced) The problem is most likely a bad 3 wire pilot. This will cause exactly what you describe. 2 things to consider though. 1, If you were to replace the pilot don't get a cheaper knockoff. In my experience these do not last long at all. Get the right one from a carrier dealer. It will cost more but be much more reliable. 2 What is the condition of the secondary heat exchanger? Most if not all of the sx series had issues with the secondary heat exchangers rotting out and leaking. If the furnace is out of warranty you would be much better replacing the furnace as the cost of replacing the secondary heat exchanger will probably be almost the same as a new furnace. ( those babies are EXPENSIVE!)