Question about Goodman Heating & Cooling
Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
This one is difficult to solve on line. I wish I could see the unit. First, check the diagnostic code chart on the inside of the blower compartment door. Constant blinking is the code for "normal no call for heat" or " normal call for heat". The diagnostic code chart will explain the difference according to the flashing speed. So this part may be ok. Second, disconnect your thermostat wires fron the furnace. If this turns off your blower you have either a bad or miswired thermostat, or a bad thermostat wire. If this doesn't narrow it down... then locate all of the wires coming from the blower motor.
If it is a "variable" speed motor the wires will be connected to the board by a module. Make sure the connector is plugged in properly. Check the dip switch settings to make sure you are not set for continuous fan.
If it has a "multiple" speed blower. Locate all of the wires coming from the motor. The two brown wires should be connected to the capacitor. The white wire should go to the neutral post on the board. The black wire will connect to the post marked "cool". Of the remaining wires... determine the speed by color according to the schematic. Place the desired heating speed wire on the post marked heat. The remaining wires MUST be connected to the posts labeled "park" or "spare". I believe that you may have mistakingly placed one of these remaining wires in the wrong location.
If none of this helps keep in mind..... just because the parts you changed are new, does NOT mean that they are good.
I hope this info helps you...
Posted on May 03, 2009
You need to remove the blower ,blow it out with a good air compressor. oil if if there is a place. be sure to blow it out once a year. its thermo protected. To stop from burning up the motor.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
Usually when the furnace blower motor runs all the time
The limit switch or rollout switch is usually open or bad.
The furnace board is seeing that one of those switches is open, so it brings the blower on to try to get the heat out of the combustion chamber area, so the switch will close. But if the switch is bad and won’t close, the furnace board will keep the blower running continuously.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
I have serviced these furnaces for 20 years and I can tell you most of these models did not have diagnostic lite on them. (although some did, especially if the control board has been replaced) The problem is most likely a bad 3 wire pilot. This will cause exactly what you describe. 2 things to consider though. 1, If you were to replace the pilot don't get a cheaper knockoff. In my experience these do not last long at all. Get the right one from a carrier dealer. It will cost more but be much more reliable. 2 What is the condition of the secondary heat exchanger? Most if not all of the sx series had issues with the secondary heat exchangers rotting out and leaking. If the furnace is out of warranty you would be much better replacing the furnace as the cost of replacing the secondary heat exchanger will probably be almost the same as a new furnace. ( those babies are EXPENSIVE!)
Posted on May 01, 2010
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