Question about Cooktops
One of the 5 ignitors does not spark when its respective control is turned on, yet does spark (and will light off) when after turning it on another one is turned on. Is this a problem with the individual ignitor or with a controller of some sort?
I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat. The surface of the board was charred beyond repair.
To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs. If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics. If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter.
Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners.
To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides. Here are the instructions from the user manual:
Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs.
In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports.
Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob.
Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals.
To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
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