Thank You so much for your help. The blade WAS under tension for a while, quite a few weeks, like 3 mos or somthing, i ran it for a while...bout an hour or so and its smoothed out conciderably. to where i was able to ballance a nicle no problem,even from dead stop to start ful speed. Then vibb started again...off and on, but now its not too bad. Im not sure of proper tension for this blade, its 3/4 to 1in wide and im just using the guide for the saw.. My floor is not perf flat either,so i was going to put a rubber mat under it,see if that helps.
Again, thank you very much for the reply.
I do not know your machine but I used a STARRITE and had the same problem. My technician could not get it to run quietly and refused to use it. I took time and went through all the adjustments. Make sure you set the correct tention for the blade you're using. Make sure the blade just touches the support bearing. There are lead blocks top and bottom. The blade must run smoothly between these, but just. After about 45minutes I had it running quietly
The problem can also be caused by a blade that is too big (thickness) especially if it was under tention for a long time and not being used. The blade presses the rubber on one side of the wheel which causes it to be off balance at speed but that is supposed to normalise after a while.
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check for the drive joint phasing and angle setting of the center bearing
mostly with center bearing , the drive shaft has to be split and the flange removed for the bearing replacement
the flange can be put back on in any position and that will throw out the s joint phasing
Take it to a drive line specialist shop and ash them to check the phasing and angles to eliminate the vibration
The vibration could have been from a bad joint and the new joint was not properly installed which will also vibrate
If you are not familiar with the term phasing It is when the joints are in direct line with each other when placed on a flat surface and allows the differentiating speeds of the crosses as they pass through the 90 degrees to cancel each other out and stop the vibration
the drive line specialist will know and explain it better as he will have the drive shaft to show you on
the vibration when coming to stops or reversing is a misfire with the engine and the cylinder heads are going bad. ive seen this problem several times on gms i am currently working on having gm make a recall.. well the national highway create a recall to send to gm and i need all the help that i can get to have this problem fixed for everyone. it is not our fault that this is happening and it needs to be addressed not kept quiet. my name is tara my email is firstname.lastname@example.org please help me gather information or if you know anyone else who has these issues please help me out so that i can get this all sent in and have a recall made thank you so much for anyones help in this
Does it feel like its coming from the front or a certain side in the front and can you feel it in the steering wheel or brake pedal.Is it only at certain speeds accelerating,braking,decelerating or is it constant.
Some banging or knocking during the ramp up to spin speed in this washer is normal. It is difficult to determine whether your washer has a problem or not based on your description. This banging lasts for varying amounts of time until the load is balanced and the washer ramps up to the full spin speed. If the load can not be balanced on the first attempt, the washer will ramp down and then tumble and attempt again to ramp up to speed.
This may be the same thing that you are hearing when your washer ramps up to spin speed. Since the washer does spin at the full speed, there is not likely a problem with the washer. The components are designed to withstand repeated vibration and reasonable banging or knocking.
The washer will vibrate to some extent at high speed. If you feel that the vibration is excessive, I recommend that you check the stability of the leveling feet. Press down on the diagonally opposing corners of the washer to check for play. If the washer rocks at all when conducting this test, I recommend that you adjust the leveling feet to eliminate this play even is the washer is not perfectly level after making this adjustment. This may help reduce the banging and vibration. Other than that if it is brand new call the people who you purchased it from so you don't void any warranties by taking it apart.
if your vehicle only vibrates at speeds above a certain point the most likely cause of the issue is a tire balance issue. just make sure it doesn't matter if you accelerating or decelerating the vehicle just vibrates after a certain speed, and if this is the case take it to a tire shop and have them check the balance. shouldn't cost more than like 40 bucks.
If you get a bad vibration in your steering wheel at low speeds without braking it is either a bad tire or a bad rim. If you get a vibration at speeds around 45-50+ and goes away you probably have a balance issue. If the vibration only occurs while braking then your rotors are warped. If low speeds it shakes i'd take it to a shop to check your tires.
I would suspect that the fly wheel was not balanced when it was machined. If this is something it has done ever since you had the clutch installed I suspect something is amiss in way it was installed. If this vibration gets worse, immediately stop driving this car and have it towed to the shop.
It sounds as though your car has two seperate problems. The first problem with the vibration that goes away when you let off the gas pedal is caused by a bad INNER CV joint. It only vibrates when you are accelerating because that is when the joint is under stress. Your vehicle has two axles, each with an inner and an outer joint. My suggestion is to have a competent shop determine which is the bad side and replace the entire axle. The second vibration which occurs at any speed is most likely cause by either a bad tire, or a bent rim.