Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV

2 Answers

Mitsubishi DLP 52525 contant green blinking light

I have the infamous green flashing lights of death. This happens when ever the tv loses electral connection such as unplugging it or a power outage. I usually unplug it for overnight and if Im lucky it will work normally in about 24 hours or so. I have replaced the 4 DM caps although they didnt appear to be bulged to no avail. I have recieved some informaiton from other tech sights but the informaiton I recieved wasnt even the same mode nor a DLP. Im at wits end here witht his problem. I need to know if this is somehting that can possible be easily fixed. If not its will be time for a new TV and it definiltey wont be another Mits DLP. Thank you to anyone whoe can supply with some answers and or documention on this issue. My email is chrisv7167@hotmail.com

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  • 18 more comments 
  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    I have looked at the other capacitors while I had it apart. I didnt notice anything unusual abotu them. Also I didnt mention I had the power supply replaced on this system about a year ago. But yes you are right Chad, it will always be Mits POS. I am definitley a very DISsatisfied customer

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    do you have any documentation or schematics for this problem?

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    are there any documentation or schematics available to help?

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    Any help would be greatly appreciated and Yes I am up to the task....

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    Ive checked the 4 fuses on the DM board 1 on top and 3 on back side. Are these the ones you are referring to?

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    The lamp was replaced recently and when the grren light finally stops flashjing fire up and looks great.

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    i checked all 4 on Dm board they were good I also checked fuse inthe power supply module they were good as well. Lamp is also good

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    no they looked great and what is strange aboutthis problem is that a certain period of time (set left unplugged) I would then plug tv in and the flashing would be normal (quitting after abut a minute) but any power interuption cause the continous blinking.

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    yes it will just go into its continous flashing routine unless I just happen to time it right and get lucky (usually after 24 hours or so)

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    thats why I was hoping for a schematic to find some easy test points for these kind of things

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    the room Im working doesnt have the best light can we continue this tomorrow when I have day light to asssist me?

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    Im not sure if you are here are now or not, but I checked the voltage across both large diodes close to the transformer. I am reading 17 volts. I then checked from the end of the diode to ground and also read 17 volts there as well.

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    17v DC

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    I checked those earlier they were good

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    continuity through all the fuses I measured 15.97v AC before the diodes

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    there is a sticker on top which has the product number and at the end it has a 09V possibly 9 volts?

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    no nothing stamped in the casting Only the label on top TDK SRW39LEC - U09V

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    just the still constant flashing green LED

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    yes both on top and bottom of DM board

  • chrisv7167 Oct 16, 2008

    I checked all fuse like items I could find. What really has me confused on thi sis why after a day or so it will stop flashing and continue to work until a power outage

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  • 899 Answers

This will need to be checked for blown pr or fuse that supplys voltage to the STK coversion chip
also vertical deflection IC , flyback transformer , and some resistors to the STK chip.
these commonly go on all projection TV's

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

  • 33 more comments 
  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    I don't need the schematic to be able to find the cause. I work on TV's and electronics all the the time. so I can walk you thru in checking and testing certain components to determine where the exact problem is. if you are up to it I will spend the time here helping you determine and replace the components. or a tech can come out and they will charge about $300

    do you want to tackle this?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    also you should not rate untill the person gives up or you don't want there help anymore

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    OK

    I will stay right here and wait for a response or untill you want to stop for the day



    first you will need to check the fuses or pr's that supply voltage to the conversion chip ( on a heat sink) chip # STK 392-??? not sure the last 3 numbers but there all pretty much the same.

    the fuses or pr's are by the power supply ( 5A ). if one of those or both are blown then the STK chip and some resistors plus the vertical deflection IC will need replacing



    after that we will check the FLYBACK transformer

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    sorry I meant to get this in too; also check the lamp because that could have also burnt out

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    without power have you check the lamp , fuses and or pr's?

    what were the results?

    .

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    did the picture colors look off be fore the tv went out?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    have you , ( with the set plugged in ) pushed the reset switch on the tv set?

    what was the result?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    then you will have to do a conversion chip swap and replace some resistors( 2w ceramic ) and it would be very advised to change the vertical deflection IC

    but first we need to do a few checks for power.

    check the voltage levels comming out of the transformer

    what were the results?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    are you getting the positive and negitive 40 or so volts?

    what were the readings?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    you can check at the diodes that convert the ac to dc

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    if you are getting the voltage then your just going to have to get the conversion done but if the volts are low then you will have to check the diodes if those are ok then the transformer needs to be replaced

    results?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    yes , what time (EST)?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    I'm back 3:23pm est

    please check this fuse or even make a connection even though it don't look bad

    f9b02 fuse

    tv power up?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    were you reading ac or dc power at 17V?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    there are a few surface mount fuses located on the back of the DM module check those

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    power at all the fuses?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    also whats the AC power before the diodes?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    does the transformer have the voltage input and output rating printed or stamped on it?

    what does it say?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    look on the metal casing for a stamped voltage rating

    is there one?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    ok lets try this

    unplug the controls panel plug with the power off

    then plug the power in wait a min then plug the controls panel plug in and do a reset

    did it power up?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    and you have checked the surface mount fuses? on the dm board?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    you can replace all the 1000uf on the powerboard and any other ones , this might do it but if not then the power supply voltage is there but the current is not , so the powerboard and dm board need repair parts that only mit has , they charge like $300 to refurbish , $75 shipping and handling

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    the transformer

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    you can also follow the power thru untill it stops then check those components

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    and if you want disconnect the fuse and check for current 4 or 5 amp

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    also check the relays for continuity

    and what did the fuses read on the diode checker?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    the biggest thing is that you should not be getting 17v dc when only 16v ac is in

    are you checking the end of the rectifier circut(diodes)?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    should be about 12vdc

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    the power will go thru a zener diode(regulator)and or a IC chip

    check that

  • jason Oct 16, 2008


    When a real diode is reverse biased a minuscule leakage current flows through the device. This current can be effectively ignored as long as the reverse breakdown voltage of the diode is not exceeded At potentials greater than the reverse breakdown voltage, charge is pulled through the p-n junction by the strong electric fields in the device and a large reverse current flows. This usually destroys the device, hence no model is required for this phenomenon. An exception to this is diodes of the breakdown, or zener, type.

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    also look for a pr (protection component)(looks like a resistor ,sort of) on the top side of the board

    find anything?

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    here you can find the model simular to yours for some other checks you might want to do

    http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?pa...

    zoom in check the voltages and board components even though it is a little different in some aspects of the circuts

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    the transformer will take a while to build up the current to push the power thru the circut or component

  • jason Oct 16, 2008

    when a transformer has been on for a while ( still plugged in the wall) it gets hot from use and breaks down the wire inside , which then current cannot flow properly , which then the magnetic field is not as strong anymore

  • jason Oct 17, 2008

    hope you can rerate my help , sorry we couldn't fix that problem. sometimes its not too bad of a problem and sometimes it requires more than two repairs , and most of the time the manufacturer has us by the b****

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  • 62 Answers

This could be a problem with any of the capacitors....from the power supply to the FMT board. If you have the means to do so, I would check them all. But at the end of the day, even if you fix it, you are still going to have a MIT DLP POS. LOL! Sorry....Hope this helps, Chad

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

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