Question about Hoover 24 in. DT999 Free-Standing Dishwasher

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Leak from salt reservoir on the DT999

Hello, our dish washer is leaking quite badly. I have removed the side panel (right hand side) and there is a plastic part, that runs on the outside from the side of the machine, into the top right hand side of the salt reservoir via 3 outlets. Each outlet has an O ring to connect up to the reservior on the bottom. It was leaking heavily, so I cleaned the connectors and the O rings and have put petrolium jelly on the rings. When you turn the machine on, it still leaks. There seems to be tremendous back pressure and water flies out past the O rings. I can't see any blockage in the salt reservoir, is there a pump or something a little bit past this that might have failed? I can't find a schematic to work out the flow through the system. I wonder if you can help. Cheers.

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  • sploid Mar 05, 2011

    Thank you both, you were spot on.

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Replace water softner seals (Hoover spares reference: 91941698) as stated previously. Harraps were doing them for £6 each. The softner is accessed by removing the R/H panel and unscrewing the air break ring nut from inside the machine. They are not a standard size so oem o rings are recommended.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

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25336251-w5dwgjlsyg40kgwhpbl31abv-3-0.jpg
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Neff dishwasher sticks on 1 minute


We had this problem with our machine.
There turned out to be a few things that caused it:

- Firstly, the float assembly (an orange looking float in a little chamber, visible if you take off the left-hand panel of the machine) was clogged - we cleaned this and it seemed to help.
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.. these two things seemed to improve the cleaning and the machine worked for a while.

The real problem though (which caused it to pump out continuously) turned out to be a failed seal on the circulation pump.

If you look on page 4 of the following link:

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The part costs about £5 - fitting it is not straightforward though, as you need to strip the machine down which is a pretty involved job.
If you think you're up to it, the steps I followed were:

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Now, you should be able to lift the top of the machine off the base, and will have access to the pump etc.


... re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly ;-)

This took me a couple of hours - it might be better to find somebody who will do it for you for fixed cost as it's a pig of a job.


For what it's worth, there seemed to be very few places where the machine could leak - and this looked to be the major one - and there are a few push-fit pipes which are worth checking out too.


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- Check the pressure switch air hose to ensure it is connected to the air dome on the side of the wash tub. This is a small rubber hose that runs from the pressure switch in the top left rear of the washer (viewed from the back, with the washer top panel removed) to the bottom right hand side of the wash tub. However, if this hose were to come off the air dome fitting, the wash tub would continously try to fill and water would begin to pour from the bottom of the wash tub. If this does not sound like your symptoms, disregard this step.
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The following link explains the step-by-step process of checking and cleaning the drain pump:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

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http://www.fixya.com/support/r385211-replacing_door_bellow_whirlpool_duet

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