Chain tightens up and bogs saw down imediately after starting. New bar and chain. New sprocket and bearing. New oiler last year. I took the bar and chain off and started it. It seems to be getting plenty of oil. The chain doesn't seem to be binding on the sprocket or in the bar.
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Completely loosen the chain tensioner. When looking at the saw from the sprocket side(bar to the right) the chain WILL travel clockwise. Fit the chain on the bar.(ensure that the chain travels in collation with the sprocket at the end of the bar if equipped). When looking at the saw from the sprocket side(bar to the right) the chain WILL travel clockwise. With the chain still in the bar, fit the 5 or so links in the sprocket on the powerhead, engage the bar with the bar nuts, then lastly engage the chain in the tensioner. Place the sprocket cover and nuts. Tighten nuts then loosen about .5 turn. Adjust chain tensioner. Retighten nuts. See that tightening the nuts made your chain tighter, loosen nuts readjust chain, tighten nuts. With gloves on and the chain brake disengaged please ensure the chain travels around the bar. Put on your chaps and start cutting.
I have never seen an automatic chain oiler that worked. Even new ones don't seem to work. Just pour a little used engine oil on the bar once in awhile like everyone else does. In theory there is a small piston that rubs on an eccentric at the chain sprocket, and that sucks in oil and pushes it through a hole, into the center groove of the bar. But if the piston is dry, it won't pump. If the holes are clogged with sawdust, it won't work. Here is a video that may help: http://www.ehow.com/video_4756894_a-chain-saw-bar-oiler.html
This will happen if your bearing goes out or if you install a chain that is damaged on your saw. If the chain is in bad shape, it puts extra stress on the sprocket, thus making it wear out quicker. Same goes for your bar. Although noone normally does, it is "best" to replace all 3 items at the same time. Usually, though, if there is no visible damage, it's ok to replace just the worn out piece.
You can find replace bars, chain & sprockets for your saw at partsbuggy.com.
Hello. Thin your bar oil just a wee bit with some kerosene. If you have a gallon of bar oil add 1/4 cup of kerosene, stir it up and you will be fine. For starters also, directly apply some bar oil to the chain so that you are always using a well lubed chain. Joe
on one side of the saw are two nuts and a chain tightener screw. loosen the nuts but don't take them off. turn the tightening screw counter clockwise. the bar should slide backwards. the chain goes over the clutch disk and the tangs go into the bar groove. just keep pressing the tangs into the bar all the way to the tip and around the tip sprocket. now turn the adjustment screw clockwise which will tighten the chain. don't tighten it too much! leave a little "play" - tighten down the nuts. plug in the saw and start it. if the saw has a chain oiler press the oiler a few times. as you use the saw the chain will expand and loosen. loosen the nuts and tighten it again just a little.
The chain oiler injects oil into the rear of the bar where the cover mounts over the sprocket. Take the bar off and clean out the oiler hole. There is usually some buildup of sawdust in the hole. Clean out the grove that the chain guide runs in all the way around the bar. You can see the injector nozzle under where that bar was when you removed it. Sometimes there is an ajusting screw there to increase oil flow.