Removed covers and flywheel. Expected dirty points under flywheel. NO POINTS THERE. Electronic Ignition module has Secondary Spark plug cable and terminals for 2 wires. Yellow wire is for shorting the spark and go to the ON/OFF switch. Cannot see where the BLACK wire goes. I suspect it is the trigger to where the points should be. Before spending $26 for a new ignition module would like to know if the black wire is the root of my problems. Does this engine have POINTS? If i do have to replace the Electronic Ignition Module what is the gap to the closest part of the flywheel where the magnets are. It appears to be about .040. or a little more. Is it POSSIBLE the magnets in the flywheel are weak. I have never had to replace a flywheel in 40 years.
Your engine doesn't have points. I suspect the black wire is a ground for the ignition. You can check this by taking a very small chunk out of the insulation and then using an ohmmeter to check and see if it is indeed grounded. If it is you probably need an ignition coil assy. It is triggered from the flywheel itself. Make sure your switch is ok and the wires going to it are ok.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
With it not producing a spark then you have an ignition system problem. Depending which Tecumseh HM80 engine setup you have you may have either an internal ignition system or external. By this I mean under the flywheel or external to the flywheel. There was also hybrid system that was both internal and external.
This engine could either points based system or a CDI all in one coil pack.
Now if it is an internal points systems it will be major an under taking for someone that never worked on one these engines as if you replace the points the ignition system must be re-timed. Note that where a few fix time setups. You might get lucky and it just dirty contacts which can cleaned without up setting the timing. To gain access to these points the flywheel must be removed.
Probably the best to do first is to download a copy of the service manual to see if this something that you can do or if you what to get a small engine mechanic that is experienced with Tecumseh repair to do.
Ignition system info starts on PDF page 67 (manual page 63) in the following manual. It will explain on how to test and repair the systems involved.
Test the spark plug (gapped at 0.020") for blue, snappy spark. If weak or nothing, remove the left side cover to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Turn the flywheel until the magnets are under the poles of the module, insert a thin business card into the pole gaps, loosen the module screws to allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws and turn the flywheel somewhat to release the card, then turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the gaps don't close up. Remove the ignition switch wire from the module body, and try for spark again. If nothing, replace the module using the above procedure. If you did get spark, replace the ignition switch wire and try again--if nothing now, look for a short circuit to ground in the wire or the ignition switch. If you got a good spark in the first test, pour a little fuel mix into the plug hole and try for start--if pops several times, you have fuel delivery problems. Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Make sure the primer bulb fills with fuel when pumped several times. Does the engine seem to have good compression? Hope some of this helps!
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the condition of the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Check the spark plug for blue, snappy spark. If weak looking, try a fresh plug gapped 0.020". If still weak looking, remove the left engine cover to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Turn the flywheel until the magnets are under the ignition module, insert a thin business card into the pole gaps, loosen the module screws, and allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws, then turn the flywheel somewhat to release the card. Turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the pole gaps don't close up further. Hope this helps!
Did you try a fresh spark plug gapped at 0.020"? The ignition module needs to be very close to the flywheel magnets to get good spark. Turn the flywheel magnets just under the module, insert a thin business card into the gaps, loosen the module screws and allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws and rotate the flywheel somewhat to release the card. Rotate the flywheel one full turn to make sure the gaps don't close up at any point. Unless this is an older saw with points and condenser, it should now have good spark. Hope this helps!
Remove the starter assembly and left side cover to expose the flywheel and ignition module after trying a new spark plug gapped at 0.020". Remove the ignition switch wire from the module and try for spark again--if still nothing, use a thin business card for a gap gauge between the flywheel magnets and the module poles. Loosen the mounting screws, let the module contact the magnets through the card, then tighten the screws. Try for spark again--if still nothing, replace the module. Use the above procedure to install the new part. Hope this helps!
The magneto is by the flywheel. Depending on the age, there maybe points under the flywheel. If so you remove the flywheel and there the points are. Sometimes bugs build cacoons between points, make them inoperable. Newer engines have electronic ignition though. Follow the small wire from the magneto coil ( where the spark plug wire goes) it will either go under the flywheel through a plastic bushing, or to an electronic module. The magneto coils do fail you can test with an ohm meter. Before that test for spark. You can remove the spark plug, and let it rest on the engine to get ground, and turn the engine over. You always need 1-spark, 2 fuel . If you have spark, see if it will hit on starting fluid, if it does, then you have a carb or fuel filter issue. Those shut off valves on the bottom of those tanks, can be a problem
Assuming that you have tried a new plug with no results, remove the flywheel side cover to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Remove the ignition switch wire from the module and try for spark again. If nothing, replace the module. Use a thin business card for the pole gap gauge--place the card between the flywheel magnets and the module, then allow the two parts to stick together. Tighten the screws, then rotate the flywheel to remove the card. Turn the flywheel one full turn and make sure the gap doesn't close up any further. At this point, you should have spark. Set the plug gap at 0.020". Hope this helps!
Need to know what model Older engines have points "under" the flywheel. Use a wheel puller to remove after removing the nut in the center of the flywheel. Newer motors have an electronic ignition module. Follow the small wire from the magnetio. If it goes under the flywheel then you have points. If it goes to a small device on side of motor, you have electronic. You can go to http://www.briggsandstratton.com/ and look up your odel number.
Ignition timing is fixed by use of a flywheel 'key' that locks the flywheel to the crankshaft. If the key happens to shear, then the timing will be incorrect. Expose the flywheel and check the ignition module gap to the flywheel magnets by using a thin business card for a gauge. Turn the magnets under the module, insert the card, and loosen the module mounting screws. Allow the module to stick to the magnets, then tighten the screws. Rotate the flywheel to remove the card, then turn it one complete revolution to make sure the gap doesn't close up any further. Remove the spark plug and check for snappy, blue spark when the engine is pulled through. If no spark, remove the ignition switch wire from the ignition module, the retry for spark. If still nothing, replace the ignition module itself. If pulling the wire gives spark, then check the ignition switch and the wire for grounding at some point. Hope this helps!
A thin business card is just right for setting the gap. Turn the magnets to be under the module poles, loosen the module screws and allow it to stick to the magnets. Tighten the screws, rotate the magnets away and remove the card. If the module is good it should make a snappy blue spark with a new plug. If rotating the flywheel through one revolution causes any core rubbing, the crankshaft may be bent or the flywheel may not be fully seated on the crank shaft. Don't run the engine until this problem is repaired. Hope this helps!