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Heating elements cycle on/off about every three minutes, with the thermostat turned off.

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You could have a short either in your control circuit or power circuit. Possibly a sequencer is **** closed bring on the heat strips.

Posted on Oct 15, 2008

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The elements are getting over heated then set temperature.You have a defective thermostat. The elements will continue to heat until they reach the set point of the thermostat. Try to lower the temp setting first. If that does not fix it, you'll need to repalce the thermostat, located very near the element, under the screwed cover on the side of the tank.------------- To know how this heater works, read as follows:---

Because electric tankless water heaters have to instantaneously raise the temperature of incoming water to a selected hot water temperature, they require very powerful heating elements. To power the heating elements of this 27,000 Watt model, you will need to upgrade the electrical service you were using for your storage tank water heater. The PowerStar AE125 will require a 240V, 200 Amp service. In addition you will need to install three 40 amp dedicated double pole breakers in your electrical box. In Canada, you will require one 120 Amp breaker.

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This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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A better solution than undersizing the fan (which would decrease your airflow and probably not satisfy the household as well) would be to change the deadband in your thermostat. (Disclaimer: best solution is always to have a properly sized unit!).
Most programmable thermostats have a "deadband" that can be programmed in. This deadband is a certain number of degrees, in heating and/or cooling, where the thermostat will not call the system even though you have reached a threshold temperature. I.e. System is set to call for cooling at 76 degrees. there is a 3 degree deadband. When the Tstat reads 76 it will add the deadband (3) and not call for cooling until the room temperature is 79. This will prevent the compressor from cycling quite so much.
Adjust your setpoint temperatures (i.e.76) with the deadband in mind and you can arrive at a range that is comfortable and reduces compressor cycling.
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1 Answer

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three thing could be wrong. First the easiest. Check thermostat for fresh batteries. inspect to see if the thermostat setting inside the thermostat, a switch, is set for the correct medium you are using i.e. electric, or gas. If those are correct then the second thig to check for is to see if the heating element is in good shape (this is only for electric heaters) disconnect on side of the electrical on the element and check for continuity using an electric meter set to ohms If you get a signal then your heating element is good. That leaves you with a hi-limit switch This switch is a safety device installed to prevent the heater from getting too hot and cause a fire. These switches look like a silver button and are mounted towards the heating elements. Hard to test one so if all others are working or check good then I would have the hi-limit switches replaced.
If this is a gas operated furnace then there could be a couple thisng. First the thermocouple could be bad. This is the small shaft you see sticking into the pilot light. Easy to replace following instructions. Secondly, Gas valve could be bad. No way to test without special tools and equipment. Gas pressure supply to the valve again hard to test without special tools. Good luck hope this helped

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