Question about Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar
How do you replace drive plate after chain replacement
It sounds like your chainbrake was on when you took off side cover .To get brake off place cover against saw with bar off so cover fits into brake lever and pull back on lever
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
I'm not the guy who wrote this problem, but I think he is having the same problem I have. I pulled the chain cover to replace my chain and when I did I felt spring resistance but I pulled anyway. now I cant get the cover on because I cant figure how to get the spring back in the drum. Any suggestions?
Posted on Nov 04, 2008
That seems low to me. Page 15 in your manual is the only oil discussion I found. Usually there is an oil pump adjustment reference somewhere. I didn't see one beyond return it for service on page 15. Are the chain and bar hot after cutting a while? I recommend you not get a longer bar without an oiler adjustment. I think the hand of the EPA has been here.
An IPL (exploded parts list) for a 440 can be found here:
There is no oiler adjuster listed. HTH
Might be a good idea to copy the IPL,
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
Testimonial: "thanking you"
I am faily certain 967 01 18-00 has to do with the EPA.
If 03 4103750 is the serial number then;
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
03 = year produced – 2003 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarification http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/)
41 = week produced – October (05-11)
03750 = 3750th unit Husky produced that week (not saw, unit)
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Thank You for using FixYa.
Posted on May 26, 2010
That metal band you see which is preventing you from putting on the cover is part of the chain break mechanism. You were suppose to disengage the break before taking off the cover (I did the same thing). To get it back together you need to disengage the break by a tricky procedure and that will make the band diameter larger so it fits over the clutch. To force the band open, you need to first place the cover over the two bolts that hold the bar. As you already know, the back of the cover will not be able to fit over the clutch. Now in this angled position, bend (force) the break lever down (gray thing on top) until you can force together the sproket in the cover onto the mating pastic fitting built into the break lever. Now you can use the break lever to force down the internal spring and open the metal band. That will expand the stainless steel band and it will fit around the clutch. If you now push down on the back of the cover it will snap in over the clutch. Once you see how it is done, it is not so hard, but it is tricky because you are forcing some of the parts slightly out of position to get it back together. .
Posted on Sep 19, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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The side plate on most chainsaws will be held on by two nuts. Loosen the blade adjustment screw (a pin that is usually driven by a screw and pushes the blade out from the chainsaw to keep the chain tension tight).
The old chain is ready to be removed now that the sprocket plate is off of the saw. Pull the nose of the chainsaw's bar away from the chainsaw to release it from the tensioner.
Remove the old chainsaw chain.
The chain will easily remove from the guide bar with all that slack in it. Note the orientation of the cutting edges of the chain so you put the new one on the same way.
Pull the drive links out of the guide bar and slip the other end of the chain around the clutch drum.
Carefully thread your new or recently sharpened chainsaw chain around the chainsaw's clutch drum, making sure that the drive links engage in the sprocket.
Thread the rest of the drive links into the guide bar and around its nose, making sure all links are in the guide bar slot.
With the chain properly threaded along the clutch drum and guide bar, put some tension into it by pulling on the nose of the guide bar away from the chainsaw.
While pulling the guide bar, make sure to seat it onto the saw's adjustment pin.
Replace the side plate.
The side plate is ready to go back on as long as the guide bar is properly positioned beneath.
Replace the plate and the nuts that hold it into position, but do not tighten the nuts down all the way yet. The guide bar must be allowed to move a little while the chain is tightened to the correct tension.
Finish tightening the side plate nuts.
The chainsaw chain replacement is now complete.
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