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Powermax boiler 155, when boiler reaches operating temperature the presure relief vale blow's off at 3 bar, when it cools down the presure go's down too, right down to zero needing a water top up before a next day restart, the whole system has been bled and there's no air locks, can anyone advise me please...

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  • paul3341 Apr 06, 2009

    I HAVE DRAINED AND REFILLED THE SYSTEM,BUT THE BURNER WILL NOT COME ON

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My hot water is fine but cant get my central heating to work i have a powermax 155 pls help its cold

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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Sounds likes you have a hot water system. Some where you have an expanion tank that is full of water and it should be half full. It will a round tank above the boiler and may even have a site glass on the end off it. It will have a special valve on it to lower the water level in the tank. The tank is to absorb the expanding water as it gets hot, and releases it when it cools down therefore preventing your relief valve from popping off.

Posted on Oct 14, 2008

  • butch welch Oct 15, 2008

    You may have a bladder tank instead. It is about the size of a five gallon bucket. It will have a valve steam in the top of it.Check the air pressure in it and it should be maybe 5 or 7 lbs. No water should come out of it if you take the steam out. This tank can be anywhere in the system but they are usually above the boiler. Good luck

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Not familiar with that exact heater but if it is an electric heater with a top and bottom element this may be the problem. Electric water heaters usually heat water off the bottom element. If a lot of hot water is used then the top one kicks in through the temperature controls. In some cases if the bottom element burns out, it will try to heat everything with the top element. This sometimes causes the water in the top of the tank to actually get too hot and it opens the relief valve. So you may have a bottom element bad. Otherwise your relief vale may need replaced or you have a sticking temp control making it get too hot.

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It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

"pressure rises and pressure relief valve opens" This could mean that your pressure switch is prematurely venting. Check boiler temperature to see exactly at what temperature the T&P valve purges. If it blows off below the high side setting, either adjust or replace. The T&P valves are usually not adjustable. That blow off temperature is stamped on the head of the valve. So, if it discharges too soon, replace it.

Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

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this eventually drops below the minimum operating pressure" Technically, there is set point for a NO MINIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE. That is a function of the amount of water in the boiler. If the T&P is blowing off, it will vent water from the boiler and the boiler pressure will go down. There is a minimum operating TEMPERATURE.

Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

All this will adversely affect your hot water. The heat exchanger for the potable hot water may have scale build up in it. Using the hot water keeps the boiler running, and a scaled heat exchanger will give you cooler hot water and the boiler keeps running. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the heat exchanger. A better idea is to not use the boiler for your domestic hot water. Why run the boiler in the summer?

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So either you have the presure switch (presostat) not working normal which supose to switch off the electrical element at 1.2 to 1.3 bars.
So look at the presure gauge at which presure the presure releive valve open and releive the steam out from boiler if it shown more than 1.5 bar the you need to check the presure switch since it does not switch off the heating element.
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