Question about Samsung HCL473W 47" Rear Projection Television
It worked fine one day and then the next it wouldn't turn on. I had a repair man come and he suggested that I spend my money on a new TV. He pointed out a large module with cards or smaller modules sticking out of it and said the whole thing could be bad or just one of the cards. He's quoting anywhere from $300-700 for the repair. If I new what the part was that is bad I would order it and install it myself, but he never gave me a write up of his findings. My TV is only 6 years old which I think is way too early to send it to the junk heap. Any suggestions?
Hi. Did the ngineer say that it was problem with convergence pcb ? To be honest the lil git hitting the screen is more likely to damage the screen than convergence. Try going in to the menu then convergence & adjust red & blue to try & get the crosses white with no coloured halo around. Post on here with results your model of tv is pretty straight forward I work for an indepedent tv repair shop the manuals are easy to get hold of thats if he even needs one. Chris..
Posted on Oct 06, 2007
The colors weren't lining up correctly on my HC-P4752W which is only about 30 months old. I did a little bit of research and got ahold of the people at http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/ They recommended replacing the IC's as well as the IC resistors. I purchased the replacement parts from their site and made the repairs myself. I should mention that I didn't have any previous soldering experience. The repair was easy and a complete success. You may find replacement parts elsewhere for slightly cheaper but what you won't find is the prompt and detailed customer service that they provide. They gave me there # and said to call if I had any questions before or during repair. I took advantage of their services and got answers every time I called.
Posted on Jul 07, 2008
The part # all depends on which version of the set that you have. Take a gander round the side of your side. Right side, if memory serves. You should see a sticker with 3 lines. One for model #, one for serial and one for version.
On the off chance you don't see one, check around the left side of the screen and take note of the lamp code. Your version will probably be a PB01 or PB02.
Depending on the version, the part # changes. Either way, you're looking at about $200.00 for a DLP chip. That's just the chip mind you, not the DMD PCB that drives it, or the rest of the light engine that helps process that information. I have had, during the course of my career, replaced a DLP chip to address white spots on the screen and found that insufficient voltage from the power supply cause the issue in the first place, or that the light engine itself was a contributing factor.
If you were to replace the light engine itself, you would replace all three components here and guarantee yourself a solid repair. You would hit the LE, the DLP and DMD all at once by doing a light engine. Granted, the cost is substantially more, but it might be easier in the long run to swallow $600.00 for a completed set than to swallow $200.00 for a DLP chip that didn't fix the issue and now can't be returned. Plus, a light engine will literally take you 30 minutes to put in and be done. Maybe even less.
PS - Don't touch the surface of that chip. And when you remove the DMD, pull out the old DLP chip and insert the new one....you're going to have to have help. Someone is going to need to watch the screen while you manipulate the DMD--set on and running--to align it back to the aperture. Have fun.
Part #s: Version PB01 :
Try partstore.com to secure parts.
Posted on Jan 22, 2010
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