I have 24 volts going into the controller, the light is on.There is no power coming out and telling the valve to open. If I hook those wires directly to the selnoid valve it does open. (So it does work)
The only humidity/temp sensor seems to be part of the controller in back or the board and in the air duct.
Hook one wire to the hum screw on the board if there is not a hum screw hook it to the green screw,go up to the humidifier then back down to the common screw on the board that should make the unit only come on when the fan is running. it sounds like the humidistat is not working correctly
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Hello. the first thing you need to determine is if the solenoid is getting 24 volts when the furnace turns on, you should be getting 24 volts at the solenoid valve. If not you need to start at the transformer and see if you are getting 24 volts there, if not then most likely the transformer is bad and must be replaced, if you are getting 24 volts at the transformer then check the wiring and make sure it;s tight. also check the humidistat and sail switch/ current sensing relay to make sure they are working properly. If you are getting 24 volts at the solenoid valve and is not allowing water thru than it must be replaced.
Check to see if your solenoid valve is receiving 24 volts by using a multimeter and putting each meter lead to each of the incoming wires to the solenoid valve, if you are getting 24 volts and the valve wont open replace the solenoid valve. If you are not getting 24 volts then Start at the transformer and see if you are getting 24 volts there, if you are then the problem is either loose wiring or the humidistat or sailswitch/current sensing relay is bad. If you are not getting 24 volts at the transformer then turn off power to the transformer and set your meter to read continuity, then take your meter and check the secondary side of the transformer for continuity, if none is read then replace the transformer.
Check to see if you are getting 24 volts to the solenoid valve, if you are but the solenoid valve does not click open then the valve is most likely bad. Another thing you can do is apply 24 volts directly to the solenoid valve from the transformer if it does not open then the vlave is bad.
check to be sure there is 24 volts to the solenoid valve. if there is, then there may be a blockage in the little plastic piece that fits on the end of the tube that fits in the solenoid valve or the valve has gone bad. if there is not power to the valve then then control would be the problem. hope this helps.
Here is the owners manual in case you don't already have one.
The first thing you want to check is that the saddle valve is open and that water is getting to the solenoid. If you are getting water to the solenoid but it's not going through then most likely you are not getting power to the solenoid. When there is a call for heat you should be getting 24 volts to the solenoid and it will open allowing water into the humidifier, if you are not getting 24 volts then check the transformer make sure it is giving you 24 volts.
If the water is always on make shure the 24 volts is hooked up to 24 volts only when the blower is on. Some furnaces have a HUM terminal but make shure it is 24 volts some are 120 volts you must use the transfomer with the AP 600. You may may use a RP50 relay. The setting 5 or 6 is about the avg setting slowly turn down to see if it shuts off .Also make shure the damper is in the winter setting. Hope this helps
Make shure the 24 volts is hooked up to power that is only powered up when the blower is running. Some furnaces have a HUM terrminal on control (make shure the HUM is 24 volts some are 120 volts then you must use the transformer supplied with the AP 600). You can use a RP # 50 relay that senses current only when the furnace motor is running on the heating speed. Hope this helps