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Washing Mach slow fill up of water

Hello, my Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive 703, has just recently started filling up really slowly. I have checked the water pressure through the hoses which is very good, I have clean all areas from there where the water would go until where the water comes out. It's as though somewhere between where the hoses go in to where the water comes out is held up somewhere. I can only open the lid a crack before it stops, so I can only see a slight dribble come out up the top back where it would normally come out quite strong. Would it be something electronic slowing it down or a hose that's possibly no longer sealed properly (but looks ok)? Would really appreciate some help!!! Thanks heaps!!!

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I've been retired from the appliance business for many years but a friend had this problem and asked for my help . First I checked the screens where the hoses connect to machine those were ok . Next i checked the solenoids checked good . Scratched my head and decided only one thing left to check the hoses going to machine . I got a bucket disconnected hoses from machine . I aimed first one at the bucket and turned water on and wow just a trickle . I didn't have another hose but just for the heck of it I reversed the hose hooked the machine end to the faucet aimed at bucket wow got full stream of water . I hooked the faucet end to machine ran the machine worked perfect . That was three years ago and I see my friend now and then he says still working great .... Weird LOL

Posted on Apr 23, 2017

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Just because you have static pressure that is good doesn't mean your flowing rate is acceptable. To check the water fill lines on both hot and cold water, use a short garden hose hooked to one and then the other. Turn on the hot valve first and see if plenty of water comes out of the hose continually...many times you will have good pressure for just seconds and then because there is a valve or pressure regulator regulator before the hot water spicot that is blocked partially all of the pressure that built up when the hot water valve was off...allowing for good pressure to finally get past the partial limescale or rusted blockage drops. Same with the cold line. Just remember to have constant good pressure. Water lines can be blocked all the way through the home and past the inlet water regulator usually located outside of the home. If you have good pressure, then start looking at the filters. There may be one in both hot and cold lines going to the back of the machine's inlet water valves. Then if they are not there or they are clean, then see if it is just one side First try the hot water only side...and then the cold side. If the cold water was side fills slowly and the hot fills up quickly you can bet that you have an inlet valve blocked. If you get no water out of one or the other side that could show up too. good luck...

Posted on May 03, 2017

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Something you might try assuming it is a hard water problem. After you've had a look for clogged screens detach the hoses at the water supply and elevate them so that the water can flow downhill. Start a normal cycle on warm to drain the hoses. Then I'm thinking you could try and funnel a solution of CLR (calcium lime remover) into the hoses and start a warm cycle again. Repeat that numerous times and see if it helps any. Just be sure to run an empty cycle or two once you reattach the water supply to clean out the chemicals. Good luck!

Posted on Apr 26, 2017

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You can't go wrong with the 4 answers attached. Most people never realize how much scale & grit are in the water supply. After awhile, the screens in the hoses get clogged & block water from coming through. They can also cause problems with the solenoid inside the washer, i've read that you should inspect the hoses annually and change them every 5-7 years. While you can easily unblock the supply hoses, you can't do much about equipment failure. I have seen many videos on You Tube, and others, that actually show you how to fix/replace parts on various appliances. I have also used them with great success, and no, you don't have to be a mechanical whiz to do it either!
By now, hopefully, your washer is back up & running normally!

Posted on Apr 25, 2017

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What Potgieter GCJ said - I had to replace the solenoid/valves which regulate the water flow on our machine. The difference was amazing. It took a third as long to fill the machine after I replaced them. They came as one unit and were fairly easy to replace.

Posted on Apr 19, 2017

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Try pulling the machine out far enough to access where the hoses connect to the machine. Turn off the water supply and disconnect the hoses at the machine, look into the connection at the machine and check for a small screen (if one is there it will be removable for cleaning). Most manufacturers put one it to prevent loose scale and deposits from household and city water systems from entering the machine and messing them up. The screen is similar to the screen on your kitchen faucet.

Posted on Apr 10, 2017

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Check the solenoids

Posted on Apr 07, 2017

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

aborcass
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SOURCE: fisher & paykel washing machine fault codes

try removing hte screws from the rear of console and within the console usually is a techsheet with an explanation of hall hte major faults

Posted on Mar 12, 2008

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SOURCE: fisher & paykel slow to fill?

if its the cold water (most common) replace the valve remove the two screws on the top of the control panel then you will see the valve i think its the right one looking from the front.its an easy job .hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 20, 2008

aborcass
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SOURCE: fisher and paykel smart drive 503 top loading washing machine

while under the lid there should be a tech sheet, explaining varions flashing light codes and there respective fixes for each instance, replacing tha switch(out of bal switch) seems like a good start though. cant remember if jumping it out will help, might be looking for a break in the line rather than continuity through it

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

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SOURCE: Slow fill on cold water/Fisher&Paykel GWL11

Assuming you have already done what you said you have done, now it is time to do some real troubleshooting.(Dont worry, if you have gone this far you'll be able to do what I'm going to tell you)

First take the lid off. To do this, open it, and lift up on one side, it should come right off. Now take the control panel cover off. There are two screws on the back side of the washer holding it on. You'll need to wiggle it a bit to get it off. Once the cover is off you should find a plastic bag with a "service" sheet in it. The service sheet explain how to put the machine into the "Test Mode". This is very easy to do and will allow you to check out all functions. One of the test, allows you to check the cold water inlet valve. Assuming your water pressure is good and you have indeed cleaned the screen filter going into the machine you will most likely find that the cold water valve is not opening all the way and will need to be replaced. If your handy with a phillips screwdriver you only have two more screws to take out and the valve assembly will come right out.
Don't think you can swap out the hot water valve with the cold water valve. Fisher Paykel, clever as they are made sure you can't do that. One is a proportional valve and the other is a digital valve. They both look identical but they are not!
If your going to do the repair yourself (you've come this far, why not see it through to conclusion), be sure when you call Fisher/Paykel to order the cold water inlet valve that you give them the serial number of your machine to be sure you get the correct part.
Good Luck!

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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SOURCE: How to I get to the pump on my Fisher & Paykel

If machine has water in it, bucket out as much as you can.

To access pump:
-Pull machine forward and lean it backwards so you can access under machine.
-On the front right hand side, you will see a fan blade- this is the drain pump. This fan blade should spin freely if you turn it by hand.
-To remove pump: remove plug connection that has 2 wires. Remove other plug connection that has 1 wire. On the top of the pump assembly, you will see a white plastic tag, about a 40mm long horizontally across the pump- gently pull tag towards you, and turn complete pump unit anti clockwise- whole pump will drop out (don't force it, it should come out easily) *Note* if there is water in machine still, it will come out when you remove pump assembly- be ready with some towels!!
-Check pump impellor(blade on other end of pump) is free from obstruction, and turns easily. Check with your finger to see if there is any obstruction in the hole where the pump has come out of (inside bowl).
-You can test pump with an ohm meter (should be approx 37ohms from memory)
Reassemble and test for leaks etc

Posted on Aug 11, 2009

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