Question about Kenmore 56549 / 56542 / 56544 / 56546 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Defrost not working properly

The freezer coils freeze over about once a month causing the fridge temperature to rise. My husband has to take everything out of the freezer and blow dry to coils for manually defrost it. What is causing this? We have a Kenmore side by side refrigerator and it is only 4 years old.
Help!
Thank you.
Holly

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Repl the defrost timer and and defrost thermostat the defrost thermost sists right on top of evaporator coils and if it looks like it explode then that is your problem but it looks ok then repl both timer and defrost thermostat , you didn't give enough info on model but if you repl both parts that will solve the defrost problem if you take your model# and buy the parts you will fix this under 200.00

Posted on Oct 14, 2008

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Coils freeze up and fridge runs all the time till I melt coils.


There might be a few causes

Door Seal might be defective causing the door not to shut tightly this causes air from the room to get into the freezer through the opening and as the air comes in contact with the evaporator coils, it freezes. Normally the defrost system removes the ice but if the seal is defective the coils freeze too quickly and the defrost system cant keep up

If the freezer evaporator coils ice over, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn't turn on, the evaporator coils ice over and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling to the freezer. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.

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Hi,
You need to check the following to make sure your fridge is working properly:
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Condenser coil - When the condenser coil is dirty it causes the sealed system to overheat and therefore the refrigerator will not cool properly.
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Proper Air Circulation - Refrigerators require a specific amount of clearance around the cabinet to allow for air circulation. If the refrigerator does not have the minimum clearance required, the refrigerator cannot cool properly.
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My Subzero 650 does not stay on 34 degrees consistently. It is not now and I have turned the unit off for 15 minutes but to no avail. It has done this before but after a 36-48 hours it is back to 34...


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You need to check the following to make sure your fridge is working properly:
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Condenser coil - When the condenser coil is dirty it causes the sealed system to overheat and therefore the refrigerator will not cool properly.
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The first thing to do is to manually defrost the freezer.

If the defroster circuit has failed, the coil in the freezer that is responsible for cooling will be choked with ice. The air that is drawn into through this coil is restricted by the ice - resulting in rising temperatures in the fridge. The freezer will also eventually have a rising temperature (if it hasn't already started).

The next thing to do is decide whether to call a repairman or attempt the job yourself. The faulty component is likely to be one of the following: defrost terminator, defrost timer or the defrost heating element. Accessing these parts will require some simple tools and testing them (once visible) will require a multimeter and taking readings with power both on and off. If you are not comfortable doing this, please call a technician. There is also the hazard of damaging the cooling lines. Skin exposed to refrigerant gasses can result in instant frostbite - and is very dangerous.

You can put this repair work off if you need to - return power to the fridge and it should run fine until the coil becomes choked with frost and ice again. Repeat as often as needed.

This job is not very difficult for trained people to perform and shouldn't be very expensive - of course, "expensive" is a relative term. I hope this helps!

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1) Defrost timer. Defrost timer may be "stuck" - failing to advance from a cooling cycle to a defrost cycle. May be found in the toe space of some fridges, but not all.

2) Defrost terminator. This is a thermal sensor that is secured to the refrigerant line close to the evaporator coil in / behind the freezer compartment. If this component fails to detect a rising temperature, it never allows the fridge to return to the cooling mode again.

3) Defroster Heating coil. This is a simple, relatively low wattage heater secured to or near the evaporator coil. It is powered through the defrost timer and shut off by the defrost terminator. If the coil is burned out or otherwise "open", it will not heat to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coil.

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