The freezer has a open vent at the bottom on the inside at the back.. i can see cooling coils thru the open vent.. after a while the cooling coils will freeze over and the frig compartment will not cool at all then... last year.. the unit did the same thing. and i found the switch under the left front side of the frig...and i adjusted the setting on it ....it took a few trys but it worked for over a year after i fooled with that switch a few times..Now i cant seem to hit the lucky spot with the switch at all..i suppose it has went out .. can you help me?
We have the same problem: We own a Fridgedare FRS26ZXH that's about 10 years old. We went to the following website: http://www.refrigerators.com/refrigeratortroubleshooting.aspx and found a solution.
refrigerator self-defrosts about four times a day. If a part of the
self-defrosting system stops working, the refrigerator keeps cooling.
This causes frost and ice to build up on the evaporator coils, which
keeps air from the circulating fan, which in turn prevents the
refrigerator from cooling properly. It sounds contradictory, but if
there's ice building up in your freezer, your refrigerator probably
isn't cold enough either. We could not see the coils in the back of the freezer compartment (should be shiny aluminum color). All we could see was ice build up over what might look like a vent.
We carefully blew warm air on these coils with a hair dryer until we could see the coils. Time will tell the cause of this problem if it happens again. It may be coincidence that the outside temp went into the teens and my 4 year old flipped off our house's heating system overnight, causing the issue.
If the problem is with the defrost system, it's either the defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost thermostat.
Testimonial: "thank you.i bought a defrost timer switch..and for the last year it has ran well..now the compressor isnt kicking in..all i get is the fan to come on"
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You have a defrost problem. A blockage of frost in the freezer prevents air flow over the cooling coils there, allowing very cold air to migrate back into the bottom of the refrigerator section. Unload the freezer and remove the back wall, melt the frost off the coils with a hair blower, and check to see if the defrost heater at the bottom of the coils is burnt out. If heater is OK, replace the 1.5 inch long white thermistor located at the very top of the cooling coils.
Open freezer door and look for any frost on the back wall inside the freezer. That would indicate a defrost problem.
Disconnect power to refrig. Unload freezer, Remove shelves and back panel inside freezer. Melt frost with a hair blower. Replace defrost heater located at the bottom of the heating coils. (Note: It may look different than the original, but insturctions enclosed with replacement cover that) Might as well replace the evaporator thermister at the same time, as your problem is about 98% of the time one or the other of those parts. The thermister is a white pencil shapped item, about an inch long, located cliped to the top of the cooling coils you just defrosted.
If you don't have the parts on hand, defrosting only will get your refrig working again for several days, while you obtain the parts.
Note: non-water dispensing is the result of the cold air from the freezer not being able to continue over the frost blocked coils, so it migrates back though the return air vent in the bottom of the refrig, resulting in a frozen water line, and often freezing in the bottom bin of the refrig.
If it is not cooling at all it is because the compressor is not running and that needs to be confirmed. Once established that the compressor is not running, then you need to look at the start relay and the capacitor if there is one (Capacitor). That may be the problem; bad start relay/overload or bad capacitor. Check thoroughly. If your compressor is running and there is no cooling, the refrigerant might have escaped ; I mean a refrigerant leak. In that case, you need to call a serviceman.
There are a few things that it could be. Do you mean the evaparator coil? This would be the coil on the inside of the freezer, the condenser is outside the unit. If the evap. coil is freezing, you could have to much in your freezer blocking air flow. You could also have a evap. fan not running. Check the owner's manual for the location of the defrost timer, it could be bad. The thermostat needs to be checked and set so that it is at a reasonable level. One last thing to check would be the condensate drain. Make sure the drain is not plugged or the line is not plugged. Good luck.
is it side by side or freezer on top/bottom...check to see if the fan inside the freezer is running when the compressor is running..also check to see if ice is covering the evaporator coils.. the freezing should be even with a thin layer of ice/ not partically melted..sometimes the ice forms in the vents and stops the air flow...to review...check and see if fan is working in freezer check to see if vents are clogged......good luck!!
many times when a unit has a defrost problem the coils freeze up and do not allow the fresh food side to cool properly...check for a build up of ice on the inside back wall of the freezer compartment. if there is a build up of ice, you have a defrost problem. Also, check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is blowing the air into the fresh food side.
Air must circulate in the freezer when working properly. I am guessing the recirculating vent in the freezer may be blocked which would not bring warmer air back to the coil to be cooled. As for the door, I theorize there may be too much negative pressure which pulls the door in while you were pulling out ... don't have solution yet.