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I'm trying to re solder the tip on my power adapter for a dv6000. Are the schematics showing where the lead attaches available online?

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There will be a diagram on the main body of the power supply

example:

http://www.viewpoints.com/images/review/2007/298/8/1193318891-42788_full.jpg

the mini diagram (top right), above the big GS logo..... next to 3.34A writing.

On this particular power supply the centre is + and the outer is -, u will need a multimeter to test for which is + and which is -

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

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Raccordement fil d'antenne sur circuit il est coupe et je ne sais ou le souder


Step 1:
google translated


antenna wire connection on the circuit is cut and I do not know where the weld

antenna wire connection on the circuit is cut and I do not know where the weld

you might need to solder it
You attach wires to printed circuit boards (PCB) in a process called soldering. You heat the wire and PCB pad, melting the solder wire and allowing it to flow onto the wire and pad. The solder wire used is typically a lead-tin alloy although in some special cases, silver is used. Soldering a wire to a printed circuit board may be part of making, repairing or modifying the board or connecting it to another device.

Clean the pad on the circuit board where the wire will be attached. Gently rub the eraser on the pad until it is clean and shiny. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation from the wire. Tin the end of the soldering iron by melting a small amount of solder onto the iron tip. Heat the wire end with the soldering iron for a few seconds and briefly touch the solder wire to the bare wire, just long enough to melt the solder, and let it flow into the stranded wires. This is called tinning the wire. Tinning the wire is not necessary with solid or single strand wire. Insert the wire end through the hole in the circuit board pad from the top or component side of the board. Bend the end of the wire slightly to prevent the wire from falling out while soldering but do not let the wire end touch any other component lead or another pad on the circuit board. Apply the soldering iron tip to the wire end and solder pad at the same for a few seconds until the solder used to tin the wire end melts. Apply just enough new solder to make a dome-shaped puddle on the pad that covers the hole and the wire. Remove the iron from the pad but do not move the board for a minute. Cool the new soldered joint and do not move the board until the solder hardens. Clip the wire end off with the wire cutters. The wire is permanently attached to the printed circuit board.

Soldering Guide http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm b> b> b> How to Solder to a Circuit Board: Skill Set (with Video)
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/news/4213423

Mar 14, 2013 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

Hp touchsmart pc iq790 wont start up after power cut


http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?product=3672542&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&cc=us

1) Hold the Power On button in, and turn the computer off. (10 seconds)
Unplug the computer from power.

Press, and hold the Power On button for 10 seconds. Let go.
Do this same procedure two more times. Keep performing until the Power On LED quits lighting up.

Plug the computer back into power. WAIT 1 minute, turn the computer on.

Just trying to see if clearing CMOS Error Codes may fix the problem.

2) More than likely the power brownout, or utility company working on the line, has burned out the power supply.

(No. The nimrod journeyman lineman/men, are not responsible for damage to your electrical appliances. !O_O!
Nor is the utility company )

The power supply is a combination, of the AC adapter that you plug into the all-in-one touchscreen desktop computer, and the power section of the motherboard.

AC adapter:
Use a multimeter, and check the voltage output of the AC adapter;

An economical multimeter can be purchased for as little as $5 to $12, here in the States.
Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example. Sometimes the checkout aisle racks of major discount stores have them. Places like Radio Shack have them.

For an economical model it can be an analog model, or digital.
The Positive (Red) probe lead is plugged into the DC port on the multimeter. (Red hole that has DC listed by it as one of the options)

The Negative (Black) probe lead is plugged into the hole on the multimeter, that is Black. (Or has a Minus - sign next to it)

The Function knob is turned to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line.
If there is more than one DC Voltage scale, turn it to the 0-50 volt DC scale.

The plug end of the AC adapter that plugs into the all-in-one touchscreen, has a Center Hole, and a cylindrical metal shell on the outside.

The center hole is the Positive connection, and where the Positive (Red) probe lead goes.
The cylindrical outside metal shell is the Negative connection, and where the Negative (Black) probe lead is touched to.

AC adapter plugged into power, test the AC adapter.
You should be reading 18.5 Volts (DC), or a little higher.

http://www.amazon.com/HP-Replacement-Adapter-TouchSmart-600-1000/dp/B006HNVRO2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1350927682&sr=8-5&keywords=hp+touchsmart+ac+adapter

[ Also although it isn't directly connected to this diagnoses, I feel it it would also be good thing, to check the cables while you're at it.

While testing with the multimeter have an assistant, gently wiggle the cable from AC adapter TO computer, and the power cord TO AC adapter.
A fluctuation in the reading on the multimeter indicates broken wires in either the cable, or the power cord ]

AC adapter checks out?
Problem is with Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard, and/or Power MOSFETs.

NOTE*
Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.

With this style of desktop computer, you CANNOT just touch the metal frame of the open computer, and relieve your body of Static.
You need to buy, and wear an ESD wrist strap, and have it's alligator clip attached to a good ground source.

Electro Static Discharge. Average cost is around $3 to $6. Here is one example,

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103245

I connect the alligator clip to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an open, empty desktop computer case.

(I feel an Anti-Static Mat is unwarranted. I do not want my wrist connected to the utility companies ground source. May be a quick storm blo-w in with lightning, or some journeyman lineman may scre-w something up when doing line construction. Yes. I hold a journeyman's license, lol!)

You can also set a large metal serving tray (Unpainted), on the table you're working on, and connect to it.
Or perhaps a large metal knickknack. (Unpainted)

Open the covers,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01060928&tmp_task=useCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=3672542

This MAY help,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpMrlAMSobQ

A look at the motherboard,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00858789&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=3672542

Visual identification of 'bad caps',

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

Check to see if any of the Power MOSFETs are blackened, or blistered. Average example of a Power MOSFET,

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:oER5NNz8cwcJ:www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FD/FDS6675BZ.pdf+Fairchild+FDS6675BZ&hl=en&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEEShOhWPjm_M-ROHme4iEMrztCTOd-28jNiy1hVLQQh_VOyv8zcXEVDB_iTQA6MuZO88UmRkDgjyW9j4CP2aIJ-4DS-h6JNM3lvxldeApQeecmz_DADCw1s7tmNLxfPknqX14SZP6&sig=AHIEtbS_rYUAeo_8rB9YHkW05ZjLqeH4Jg

Apparently the same motherboard, is used in an HP TouchSmart IQ770 also,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Touchsmart-iQ770-5188-6259-Motherboard-Asus-A8SN-CF-w-2GB-RAM-/261110745455?pt=Motherboards&hash=item3ccb69c96f

Also check to see if there is any apparent damage, to other electronic components on the motherboard

I can guide you in replacing Electrolytic Capacitors.
(They are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors)

This guidance is for replacing Power MOSFETs, or other SMD's.
(Surface Mount Device),

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY&feature=fvwrel

( You can use a low wattage soldering iron { 25 Watts }, and that beveled tip also. Do not need a Soldering Station.
DO NEED rosin flux paste, .030 Rosin solder, Desoldering Braid, (Solder Wick), damp sponge for cleaning soldering iron tip, old toothbrush, and a steady hand )

Just an example of a Fairchild Semiconductor - FDS6679 - Power MOSFET, one place to get it from, and average cost,

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=FDS6679

One Dollar and one Penny, USD.

Same place for Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

How to identify the manufacturer, and manufacturer code on an Electrolytic Capacitor,

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

(Japanese and Taiwan manufacturer info)

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette


Oct 21, 2012 | HP TouchSmart PC Desktops

1 Answer

I have a broken transistor on my motherboard.. is it possible to repair?


For the life of me I cannot think where a single lone transistor, would be used on the motherboard of a desktop computer.

Electrolytic Capacitors, Solid Capacitors, (Polymer usually), Choke Coils, Integrated Circuits, Diodes, etc, but not transistors.

I believe your reference is to an Electrolytic Capacitor.
A Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

But, the answer is yes in both cases.
Transistor, or Electrolytic Capacitor.

1) http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

2) http://www.capacitorlab.com/replacing-motherboard-capacitors-howto/index.htm

3) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

In link 3 above you can see the difference between an Axial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor, and a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

Look at the second photo down on the right.
The Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor has both leads coming out of the bottom.

Basic construction of a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor:

Essentially it is a small aluminum can filled with three strips, and capped off with a flat aluminum disk on top, (Vent Cover), and a flat rubber disk on the bottom. (Bung)

The case is like a Coca-Cola can open at the top, and bottom.
The top is capped off with a flat, thin, aluminum disk that has a K or X etched part way into it.
The bottom is a synthetic rubber flat disk called the Bung.

The first strip is a thin foil metal strip. It is the Conducting Strip.
It has a lead (Wire) attached to it, and this lead is the Positive lead.

The second strip is also metal foil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
It is the Non-Conducting strip.
The Negative lead is attached to it.

The last strip is of a paper-like substance, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

The paper-like strip is placed in-between the two metal foil strips, and all three are rolled up tightly, then inserted down into the aluminum can case.
The two leads, Positive and Negative, are inserted down through the synthetic rubber Bung.

When an Electrolytic Capacitor goes bad, one of two things happen with the Electrolytic Paste.
One it dries up.
or
Two it creates a gas.

The gas created is Hydrogen Gas. The gas expands, and eventually pushes Electrolytic Paste out of the capacitor.

The top vent cover's etched shape, K or X, breaks open, and paste oozes out,
and/or
one side of the rubber Bung disk pushes down, and out, and paste oozes out.

So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state.
Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

Capacitors are rated in Voltage, and Capacitance.

How much Voltage is the MAXIMUM they can use, and what the maximum capacitance rating is for them.
Capacitance, for the size of capacitors used on a desktop computers motherboard, are rated in MicroFarads. uf

The Voltage and Microfarad's are marked on the outside plastic sleeve of the capacitor.
It may be plainly stated, (Printed/Stamped), or in a manufacturer's code.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/164

I lay the motherboard upside down on my lap. I then use a clean, well tinned soldering iron, (50 Watt or less), to melt a solder joint on one lead of the capacitor.

I have solder wick ready, and waiting to 'soak' up the solder as soon as it melts.
(Solder Wick = Soldering Braid. A bunch of thin copper wires woven into a braid )
You are just trying to remove as much excess solder as you can.

I prefer Soldering Braid (Solder Wick) over a Desoldering Tool. (Solder S-ucker Tool)

A tip of the soldering braid is laid over the solder joint, (Half a fingernail width), so that the braid covers the entire solder joint.
Then the soldering iron tip is laid on the soldering wick, right above the solder to be removed.
When the solder melts, and the braid soaks it up, the braid is quickly removed.

The small length of braid can only be used so many times. I cut the solder soaked area off after using it one time, and use a fresh area when going to remove some more solder.

You aren't going to remove all of the solder in the solder joint. Just enough so that when the solder joint is heated again, it won't flow back into your way when trying to remove the capacitor.

The thin, tiny copper strips going along the motherboard are Circuit Traces.
If you linger too long with the soldering iron, you can burn a circuit trace, and lift it right off of the motherboard, rendering it useless.

You can also heat the circuit trace area where the solder joint is, too much, and this will cause the circuit trace to Not accept solder anymore. (It is 'burned')
{The copper circuit trace is overheated, and will not 'tin' anymore. If it doesn't accept solder we have a problem, Houston}

You are just trying to heat the solder joint enough to remove some of the solder.

Melt the solder on the other lead, and remove as much excess solder as you can with the soldering wick.

Lay the motherboard turned over on your lap, so the bottom side is facing up and the capacitor leads are facing up.
Hold onto the capacitor with your fingers, and thumb, on the top side of the motherboard.

Use the front of your fingers, and the side of your thumb for a fulcrum, with the tips of your fingers, and thumb applying pressure against the capacitor. (Pressure = Gently prying the capacitor away from the motherboard)

Heat the remaining solder on one lead of the capacitor until it melts, and ease THAT lead out of the motherboard a LITTLE. It will only go so far as the other lead is still soldered in.

Now go to the other lead, and melt the remaining solder. Pull it up, and out of the motherboard a little.
Keep alternating back, and forth until one by one, the leads come up out of the motherboard.

The solder joint area on the circuit trace, where the capacitor lead was removed from, (Essentially a copper ring around a hole in the motherboard) needs to be cleaned, and re-tinned with solder.

I use Isopropyl Alcohol, and a small solder flux, and acid brush, to start cleaning the circuit trace area around the motherboard hole.

[ CAUTION!
Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE, and burns colorless.
Use in a Well ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present ]

This helps to remove residue. I then carefully brush the circuit trace area around the hole with steel wool.
Follow with a light tinning on this area.

[ Tinning: Solder is applied in a light coat ]

NOTE*
A capacitor has a Positive lead ( + ), and a Negative lead. ( - )
The Negative lead is the one marked on the outside plastic sleeve of the capacitor.

When you remove the bad capacitor, make SURE you know which hole is for the Positive lead.
If you put the leads back into the wrong holes with the new capacitor, the capacitor will explode when you fire the motherboard up. (Turn the computer on)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

If it is a transistor we are 'talking' about the procedure above still applies. IF you were going to keep the transistor, you would use a Heatsink on it's leads on the Top side of the motherboard, close to the transistor itself.

For additional questions please post in a Comment. (Believe upper right of your page. Our website is undergoing improvement changes)

Regards,
joecoolvette

Sep 11, 2011 | PC Desktops

4 Answers

My Acer Aspier M1641-U1521A doesnt display on the monitor. The monitor works, the display cable works, I measured the voltage on the motherboard at 12.08 Volts, the cpu fan spins, I have power to the USB...


if none of beep sound from bios indicated system are working mean....

your processor is not working.
the power phase block to processor not working, maybe some of its capacitor are leaked.

you also can use this step.
eject all memory chips and VGA card
and turn on.
if you hear sound beep it mean system ok then.

it can be mean memory or vga is the source of problem.

hope it help
and please rate this solution if you like it.

Mar 05, 2011 | Acer Aspire M1641-U1521A PC Desktop

1 Answer

How do you change the d.c. Power jack on a toshiba L300D ?


where's this power jack located? in the laptop or in the power adapter? if from power adapter it is very easy. just buy a power jack that is the same with the defective. cut the defective part and solder the new one. if its from the laptop. you have to open the unit. then do the same process. but this time you will not cut the defective jack. you will use a soldering iron, soldering pump to remove the lead. after that install the new one. of course you will need some lead and soldering iron to do that. good luck.

May 15, 2010 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

I can't adjust the horizonal on my 17'' kogi to fit my screen


You may have case of bad solder joints developing in the monitor's horizontal circuit. Many parts get pretty hot and this can lead to connections failing over time. Or some part may have failed and is causing the problem. If you or someone you know has the skills to do electronic soldering, you could check the solder joints and repair any that look questionable. Otherwise, you'd be better off replacing the monitor. It's difficult today to find a service shop that will attempt a monitor repair (lack of service information and parts availability problems), and the labor cost will be high if you do find one. New LCD monitors are quite inexpensive now, especially if you shop online.

Jul 28, 2009 | PC Desktops

9 Answers

Dead Toshiba A100 laptop computer


In order to replace the power jack in your laptop you’ll have to remove the jack from the motherboard as I explained in the previous post: Replacing DC power jack.
While removing the jack you can accidentally pull out the internal copper coating (I’ll call it a sleeve) from the inside of the “+” terminal as it shown on the picture below.
9807c6d.jpg
The internal copper sleeve has been removed and cannot be installed back. If you solder the power jack back on the motherboard without this sleeve it might work but the connection between the “+” lead and motherboard will not be reliable.
In the following guide I explain how to fortify a damaged power jack connection. You can use this repair technique in some laptops with similar power jacks.
Laptop is dead. How to troubleshoot the problem.In this post I’ll explain how to troubleshoot a dead laptop and find the problem. The following troubleshooting tips are not model and brand specific, they should work for most laptops.
Let’s take a look at two different scenarios.
Example 1. The laptop is absolutely dead. 
When you plug in the power adapter and press on the power button, there is no signs of life at all. The laptop will not make usual noises, LEDs will not light up, the fan will not spin, the screen is blank and black, etc… In short, the laptop is dead.
What you can do in this case?
1. Make sure the wall outlet is working and the laptop DC adapter is getting power from the outlet. Try another wall outlet.
2. Test the laptop DC power adapter, make sure the voltage output is correct. You can test the DC power adapter with a voltmeter.
3. Let’s say the DC adapter is fine and the adapter outputs correct voltage. In this case unplug the power adapter from the laptop, remove the battery, wait for 1-2 minutes, plug in the adapter and try turning on the laptop again.
OK, you tested the adapter and it’s bad. If you decide to replace the original DC adapter with a generic one, you’ll have to follow this rule:
The voltage output on your new adapter has to be exactly the same as on the original adapter. The amperage on the new adapter could be the same or higher.
If nothing helps and the laptop is still dead, apparently the motherboard is fried or there is a problem with the DC power jack. It’s possible the DC power jack is broken and the motherboard is not getting any power from the adapter. In this case you’ll have to disassemble the laptop and replace the power jack. Check out thisguide for fixing laptop power jack.

Jan 12, 2009 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

Hi; I Have a Dell XPS 1530 which is dull if I do not have it plugged in. I have three Targus power cords and cannot use any of them. The one that has the S35 tip fits, but only engaged...


I am showing the AC adpater specifications as:
Input Voltage Range: AC 100V - 240V
Output Voltage: DC 19.5V
Output Current: 4.62A
Power: 90 Watt
Does your adapter meet those specifications?
Although I am a proponent of Targus products, possibly purchasing an OEM adapter may solve the problem. We have successfully purchased ones available from reputible vendors on eBay at a discount.
Have you checked to always show the battery status in the system tray so that you can verify when the AC adapter is actually charging versus an intermittent connection or malfunctioning power socket?

Oct 22, 2008 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

HP dv6000, laptop will not start up, screen stays blank and the lights and fan turn off about every 20secs and it just keeps doing the same thing over and over again, sounds like its starting up then OFF,...


Hi civic-95-uk ,

Try performing power drain steps on thenotebook:

1) Remove the AC adapter and battery from the notebook.
2) Press the power button and hold it for a minute.
3) Reconnect the AC adapter, battery and try starting the computer.
Even if the issue is same then perform Hard drive self test from BIOS.

1. Turn on the notebook and press F10 immediately. Which will lead you to the BIOS setup screen.

2. Click on Diagnisis and choose hard drive self test. Perform both the short test and long test.


Sep 09, 2008 | HP PC Desktops

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