Question about Philips HTS3450 System

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Hts3450 Sound Gone

Ive pulled the boards but cant identify the capacitors for the fix, can you narrow down for me or email photo, any chance ???? I'm desperate, I need for a Movie Birthday Night this Saturday david@realestateguidance.com

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Hts3450 Sound Gone - 907f475.jpg
Here is a picture of the Power Supply PCB. The location of the 470uF 25v capacitors is marked by the red circles. To locate these the two circuit boards need to be separated. Pictured are the replacement 35v capacitors. Thank you to WheatService for discovering the solution. I hope this helps. I went to Radio Shack and got them to do the soldering for me. It cost a total of like $15. The sound works like normal now.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

  • nathan mesner Jun 12, 2013

    I HAVE A PHILIPS 3450-37B I HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE POWER THE LIGHT WAS FLICKERING ,SO I TOOK OFF THE TOP AND I NOTICE A PIECE WAS MISSING ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD RIGHT NEXT TO WHERE THE POWER IS PLUGED IN.THE # ON BOARD WHERE PIECE GOES IS C936 ANY CHANCE ON HELPING IDENTIFY THIS PIECE?

  • nathan mesner Jun 12, 2013

    THIS ISMY BOARD

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MY 63'' SAMSUNG SHUT OFF BY ITSELF AND DOESNT TURN ON ANY MORE,IVE HAD THE TV FOR 2 YEARS WITH NO PROBLEMS UP UNTIL YESTERDAY


The problem is with the power circuit board components . The capacitors have gone bad. A pop sound is created due to the burn out of the capacitors..Faulty capacitors can be identified either by using an continuity tester or by appearance that i will be bulged at the top...

Most probably the burned out part which created the pop sound must have created a burned appearance in that area. Just check it out...

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The new capacitors have a lot more value than the factory ones. Because of the higher value the amplifier will have to give it all it's got and mostlikely not live for too long (see first comment).
Replace the replaced capacitors with ones of the correct value and your problem is solved. You can use ones with a slightly higher vlaue (20v iso 16v) but it will also produce less louder sound.

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Are you sure you are looking at the right board? I was looking at the wrong board (the one with the long, low heat sink and lots of capacitors). I can post or e-mail you a picture of the location if that will help.

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you are probably actually looking for two 16v capacitors, not 25v. They are either black or brown near the huge copper coil magnet capacitor at the end of the board. A thin, tall metal heatsink sits between it and the copper coil capacitor. Philips is notorious for their completely worthless stereo systems, so they probably knew about the problem with the capacitors and put in 25v for later versions of the hts3450.

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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Email id


As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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1 Answer

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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1 Answer

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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2 Answers

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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.

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3 Answers

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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.

Mar 17, 2008 | Philips HTS3450 System

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