Tub turns fine and no vent blockage. I have checked the heating element and it reads "short" on a meter as well as the Thermal Cut-Out Hi-Limit Thermostat, temp adjust. I also checked the fuse and it also reads short as it should.
Just not sure what these should read with a meter and what is causing the problem.
Please reply if you have any idea what might be causing the problem or can tell me the correct readings I should get with a DVM on these components.
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Re: 110.86427100 - 64271 Kenmore electric dryer.
All of those you tested should read short. that is correct. now what is your prolem?. is it not heating or it would not start?
if it woud not start, check the door switch. that would prevent it from starting.
if it would not heat but turning, there is a contact at the cetrifugal switch of the motor that would prevent it from heating.
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you first need to access the heating element case and with a multi-meter check the element for 50-250 ohms,then the hi-limit switch and cycling switch on this case,then on the dryer exhaust vent housing theres a thermal-fuse,check this for continuity all components will check 0 or near 0 ohms=good/infinity,no reading=bad/except the element and the above is just an approximation as each element has its own resistance
hello there: Testing with an ohm meter checking on a
dryer.... These are the places that pass voltage to the heater
elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of
places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance
before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are
testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any
wires ). Meter
testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power
supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read
tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm
meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and
safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show
continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set
of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture
what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater
wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent
years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with
your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses
are located on the heater element housing and should read
continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air
flow problems or a grounded
heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the
wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There
is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is
running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check
with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically
safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals
on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read
continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a
dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two
terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater
element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity
across a good element 8-12 OHMS
I would start by replacing the main thermostat. It is possible it may be reading low - and not allowing proper heating.
Is the fan actually working ? With no airflow - it may overheat around the heater quickly and cause it to turn off too soon.
Some models have awkward ducts to clean properly - they really need stripping and hosing out.
hi.. Check the dryer breaker pair in the house electrical box. Push off,
then on. If the breakers trip immediately, then you have a direct short
circuit in the dryer, usually the heating element which involves
removing the drum to get at the element(s). If the breakers hold, then
try the dryer. If you get heat--ok. If drum turns, but no heat--check
with a voltmeter across the two slanted slots in the power socket. You
should read ~220 volts AC. If near zero, then one of the breakers is
probably bad. Get an electrician to replace the breaker pair...
1. No power to the dryer Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.
2. Heating element A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
3. Thermal fuse Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.
Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.
The heating element is in the back of the dryer. Sometimes there is a small access panel that will allow you to check the terminals to the heating element. You will need an ohm meter or multimeter to check.