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Re: how to install claw foot bath to tiled floor
I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.
Your question is: You have a claw foot bath to install in a tiled bathroom. How do you fix the bath to the floor so it is secure and doesn't move?
A little clear silicone caulk under each claw is my favorite method. Locate the tub in it"s final position. Set up the drain and water connections so that you can complete them without moving the tub. Lift each end in turn just a bit and aply some caulk, you may need a helper. Wipe off the excess. Then hook up.
Feel free contact me again! Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off Thank you, Harvey your Master Plumber
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Cleaning your Tub
There are several options for cleaning the piping on a jetted bathtub.
The reason you have a residue on the bathtub surface when you are done bathing is because there is bacteria built up in the plumbing of the jetted tub. In order to remove that and reduce the amount of "yucky stuff" coming into the tub when using it, we recommend a regular usage of a jet cleaning product about once every couple of months
Here is a link at the bottom to the cleaning products I can find right now. There may be others out there that I am not aware of but I do know these products work well in all jetted bathtubs.
if you have a water stain on the ceiling below your tub then you have a water leak. There is no easy solution for this. You must get to the underside of the tub in order to watch the jets when the tub is full of water to isolate the leak and then have it repaired by a plumber.
The grout between tiles is just for filling the gaps. The tiles are glued to the wall, usually with "thin-set" mortar. Unless that mortar is in very poor condition it is unlikely that you would be able to remove that single tile without breaking it. The wall behind the tile might be water-resistant drywall (a poor quality situation) or it should be cement-board. I suppose it's possible that there is already a hole in the wall behind the tile, but the hole would be smaller than the tile, and assuming 4 inch (not large) tiles, this is a poor choice to gain access to the pipes. The usual access is through the wall from the other side. During initial construction, a removable access panel is sometimes provided (depending on local building codes and whims of the builder). If there is no access panel, and the other side of the wall is drywall, then cutting a generous hole, and fashioning a plywood panel (with trim around the edge to cover the gap between the drywall and the plywood) is a pretty standard and simple approach (depending on your skills). As an alternative and for more info, here's a link describing how to install a plastic snap-in access panel.
if it is not in,under or right outside your house you can always shut it off at the water meter,usually located on the property line under a metal cover. use a crescent wrench or channel lock pliers. if more than one family is on this one meter, notify everyone involved about your repair problem and co-ordinate a time to turn off the water that is convenient for everyone.
The main reason to screw the feet to the floor is to keep the tub from moving which could cause the pipes to leak (either the supply or the drain) Authentic old clawfoot cast iron tubs were usually bolted to the floor because they were so heavy that it took a significant effort to move them, especially on a wood floor. If your tub is light enough that you could move it without a pretty significant push, then you had best bolt it to the floor in at least two places. Drilling holes through tile can be intimidating, but it's not as hard as you might think using an inexpensive masonry drill bit and a carbide tipped scratch awl. I will leave it to you to figure out how to assemble the claw feet to the tub, but here are a couple of important tips for drilling the holes through tile: Mark the hole locations with a felt-tip marker. Then use the carbide tipped scratch awl to gouge a starter divot in the tile. This divot can be pretty small, but it's essential for being able to drill a hole in tile in the right place. Use a variable-speed drill at fairly low speed to drill the hole - don't use a hammer-drill. Also keep a puddle of water where you are drilling to prevent the tile from heating up in one spot and causing the tile to crack. Once you get the hole through to the wood below, switch to a regular drill bit of a smaller size.
This is something best handled by a tub resurfacer. It is an area of specialized repair. Results varied depending on material tub is made of. Cast iron tubs Show repair more so than fiberglass. Check for tub resurfacing in Repair Service Link.
Generally, the size of the bathing area in the bathroom will determine whether a 5-foot, 6-foot or corner bath is selected. If space is not an issue then other factors can be considered. Most people compare the features, performance, style, comfort and price of the various baths being evaluated.