We installed Cool Attic Fan CX30BD2SPD two weeks ago and haven't really used it much. Last night after running one hour on low, it stopped. Turned it off and tried it later, it did the same thing. Is this normal? Haven't ran it on high yet. Does it regulate itself and restart or is this defective?
Whole house attic fan motor overloading/heating shutting
down and then resets itself -- it runs for several hours and stops and then
restarts on its own. John C. Flood Plumbing quoted me $300 to fix it and then
upped the charge to $900 for just the motor.
Do I have a fire risk with this happening? How much should it cost to replace the motor?
The Question that needs that needs an answer is; Is a belt driven fan motor? If yes than the fan motor Belt Tenxion on the motor is critical. The tighter the Fan Belt the motor amperage will increase and will exceed the motor rating. The motor is designed with a thermistor that protects the motor from burning up, plain and simple. While tightening the fan blade you must check the actual reading with an amprobe to stay within the name plate reading.
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Re: attic fan stops running after one hour
I need to verify you have adaquate air flow, to cool the motor. If you have a window open, and the crawl hole open is there enough air flow into the the attic? It there is enough air flow and it still stops after about an hour, does this unit have a humidistate and a temperature switch on the housing or extension. If all the switches are working correctly then I could be the motor overloading/heating shutting down and then reseting. InMrFixIt
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service your dryer every 3 months if you use it 3/4 times a week 2 times a week every 6 months it is important easy to do yourself but make sure you turn the power off 1st depending on the make or model you need to get into the inside of your dryer and vac all the lint and dust out all around it builds up on the motor and heater fan if the motor fan gets blocked it will cause the dryer to stop and you will have to wait till it cools down for it will start again not good as the motor will burn out or could catch fire if you follow my advice your machine will last longer and work better
I know that you need to install the vent but if you can pick a different location it would be better for energy efficiency because of associated downdrafts that may occur. If you can locate the vent to go through a wall to the outside it would probably be better, If that is too big a project maybe consider an indoor venting system. If you wish to use the attic assure that you add a "draft trap" (see link) and assure you clean the dryer vent pipe at least 1/yr. http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/51-600-dryer-vent-accessories/draft-blocker-inline-damper-602022.aspx
Always clean filters, if your hose goes up, check for stopped up vent hose (in the attic, happens alot in apts. ). If you have a neighbor behind you who is attached to the same vent going out and you leave your clothes in the dryer and they are dry. His dryer running will make your clothes damp. Have had all of these problems.
I would check the drum rollers, idler pully and see if something has fell in where the fan is. Also check for lint build up. That is one of the biggest problems not keeping the lint screen clean. It gets stoped up and the fan blade can't turn. Also causes it to get too hot and could cause a fire. Last take the belt off and remove the drum . Run the motor for a short time with nothing hooked to it but the fan and see if the motor is making the noise. Have fun. Hope this helps.As far as I'm concerned you have one of the best machines. I wouldn't buy a new one too much trouble and expence.
The general rule of thumb when it comes to dryer vents is the SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the run, the better the appliance will be at drying efficiciency. The more bends and rises you add to a vent line, the more resistance you add to the blower motor. If the blower motor cannot efficiently force all the lint and moisture out of the vent line it tends to accumulate and clog. This eventually leads to poor drying results and an appliance that will overheat the point of failure. Dryer vents that run into an attic or crawl space are generally the worst configurations. The blower fights gravity with attic installations and sags under a crawl space can create choke points that clog. The following link can give you some advice on the dryer vent installation recommendations:
If your dryer still heats, but your clothes take longer than usual to dry, you may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire run of the exhaust ducting from where it exits your dryer to the point where it leaves your home to ensure you have no kinks, clogs, or excessive bends. The following link explains many of the common problems that can cause poor drying efficiency and longer dry times:
Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. This is the NUMBER ONE cause of poor drying efficiency. A dryer that is clogged, or has restricted air flow, will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to OVERHEAT. This will eventually will lead to component failures and is the source of many fire hazards. I know you have checked for lint, but have youi checked the ENTIRE exhaust run and the cabinet interior? Exhaust ducting that runs to the attic is usually the worst configuration, because the air has to be forced up. The blower fan will meet more resistance and any lint that does not exhaust completely, ends up stuck in the vent. Water appearing in the drum is a sure sign that you have a clog somewhere causing condensation to develop.As far as the age of the appliance, the date of manufacture is determined by the SERIAL NUMBER, not the model number. The following link explains:http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576437-determining_the_age_of_your_whirlpool_apThe second digit in the serial number determines the YEAR it was produced. The next two numbers following that digit, represent the week in the year (52 weeks in a year) it was produced.FYI: There are no adjustments that can be made to any of the internal thermostats or heating element to make it run at a higher temperature. All these components have a fixed setting. If the dryer still produces heat, this is generally a sign that the heating element IS working. If the dryer is clogged, however, the internal protection devices, such as the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Internal Bias Thermostat will shut the heating element off prematurely to prevent the dryer from overheating, and to prevent damage to the heating element. Eventually, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Thermal Fuse will trip and the dryer will not run.or produce heat.If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.