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Dryer heater not working

On drying cycle drum rotates, fan blower works but blows cold air only.

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If it is an electric heater that means that either the heating element, or the thermistor , or the cirrcuit breaker connecting the element must be replaced.

You find diagrams and replacement parts here, just enter the model number.

See also following suggestions from repairclinic :
There's no heat.


How Dryers work

Find a part for your Dryer




Posted on Oct 12, 2008

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2 Answers

I have a candy smart CMD 146 the machine works fine when washing but when it comes to drying the drum spins but there is no heat to dry the clothes.. Any idea as to what the problem could be?


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.











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Jun 10, 2015 | Candy Washing Machines

1 Answer

Dryer is not heating and thermostat is good.would like suggestions on troubleshooting


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.





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May 16, 2015 | Bosch Vision 500 Series WFVC544AUC 27"...

1 Answer

Fridgidaire Dryer not drying completely


Good Morning David, thank you for allowing me to assist you!

I understand your dryer is experiencing lack of heat. There are several factors that could cause this; some of which you can check prior to scheduling a professional.

Have you checked your lint filter recently? I ask because if a lint filter is full of lint it will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times. To keep your dryer working correctly, clean out the lint folder area after each and every use. Check the lint filter for any buildup of fabric softener that will also restrict airflow and wash with soapy water to clean. If the filter is damaged then it will need to be replaced.

Additionally to checking the lint trap area, please investigate the ventilation (duct work) system connecting to your dryer. Often we forget to clean this duct work therefore over time debris can restrict air flow. Check the air flow by disconnecting the accordion-like duct work from the dryer appliance. Run a drying cycle, with clothes inside the unit, but keeping the duct work disconnected. If you notice any improvement, then the ventilation duct work (often going through your floor or side wall) will need to be thoroughly cleaned. Also make sure you do not have multiple turns or kinks in the duct work. The more curves or turns this duct system has to take to exit the air outside, the more restricted it can get. The more restriction you experience the more time it will take the unit to dry.

Do you notice any unusual rumbling or rubbing noise when in use? This could indicate a faulty blower wheel. A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat (a fuse like component) may trip and turn off the heat circuit. A loose blower wheel will usually make a rumbling noise that is easily noticed. Inspecting the blower wheel is usually a task for a professional considering you must take apart most of your appliance to make sure it is tight to the motor shaft.

If you have a gas dryer, gas valves could also cause you an issue. Defective gas valves can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent and require professional attention. A professional is needed to check for proper flame ignition for a complete drying cycle to determine if this may be your point of concern.

On many dryers you will find "drum seals" in between the unit's drum and the front door. The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear access. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn, or is worn, then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them. This will also affect your drying time tremendously.

While you are checking the drum seals please check the door of your dryer as well. When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum. Keeping the correct temperature at all times inside the dryer ensures that the clothes will dry efficiently. If clothes are not drying then inspect the door seal for signs that it may be worn or damaged.

If none of the above solutions prove to be successful, it would be advisable to contact an experiencing repair tech to assist further.

Best of luck!

Nov 23, 2013 | Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000E Front Load...

1 Answer

Drying not taking place..... inside bucket only rotates


If the drum is rotating but the clothes are not drying, you have one of these problems:

  • Blower is loose on the motor shaft
  • Exhaust is plugged with lint
  • Heater is not working.
The quick check for the first two problems is to see if air is blowing out of the exhaust. If not, find out why.

If the air is cold, check the heater. In an electric dryer, the heater element could be burned out or one of the two thermostats (primary and safety) is open at room temperature (i. e., bad thermostat). In a gas dryer, the pilot ignitor or the gas valve is not working.

Apr 23, 2011 | Daewoo Washing Machines

1 Answer

Dryer is not working


The air heater and the blower requires to be tested/checked.

Apr 06, 2010 | Malber WD1000 Front Load Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

My Bosch Classixx washer dryer has stopped drying and the clothes come out steaming hot and steam escapes from the powder drawer during the drying cycle. I have had an engineer out and he says the airflow...


if you have a very large load of clothes in the machine on the dry cycle, what tends to happen is that the clothes are not flapping around in the drum loosely but they are going around the drum in a big mass, with the result that they just get very very hot and steam will escape out the soapbox draw. When this happens, heater unit that becomes overheated ant the thermostats will eventualy cut out resulting in cold air being circulated instead of hot. You will need to have them replaced again. when replaced, put on a drycycle with only a few garments in the machine and you will see a big difference in it perfomance. washer/dryers are not very effective on the drying cycles with a full washload.
if you need any more help, you may email me at appliancesdav@hotmail.com

pallesappliancerepairs.com

Feb 03, 2010 | Bosch Classixx WVF 2402 Front Load...

2 Answers

Dryer will not heat up


If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. Make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED. The Duet has screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel that you need to remove. Simply remove the screws and the panel drops down, then off. Sometimes the panel can stick. If this occurs, a slight tap on either side will free it.

NOTE: The heating circuit should also be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box on the right hand side of the dryer looking in) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box all the way to the back.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.


I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions. If you can identify a bad part and need assistance locating a replacement, let me know.

Apr 07, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

2 Answers

My WVF 2402 washer/dryer washes clothes ok but doesn't dry them.


Sorry I'm way late with this but I've only just noticed it. Unplug the machine from the mains! Remove the lid (with a torx screwdriver) and you'll notice a small circular device with 2 leads attached on the top of the machine, in the centre there's a small button, press it and it should click......you've fixed it This is a thermal cutout safety device designed to switch the drying heater off if it becomes too hot. The probable cause for this is that you've over filled the machine and the air didn't circulate freely. as a rule of thumb, dry 1/2 as many clothes as you wash.

Mar 23, 2008 | Bosch Classixx WVF 2402 Front Load...

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