Nah thats not it. and nothing has changed. I had a kenwood amp with the two kicker subs for almost three years and it blew out. i got the jl and it worked for 4 weeks. The subs are 8 ohm and were connected in series. does that have anything to do with it? do you know if there is a fuse inside the jl amp that i might have blown for having too much resistance.
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When an amplifier shuts the Bass off that means its going into protection mode otherwise it will burn out the outputs. One way is to turn your gains down, Pioneer amps are not the best amps for bass out there, they are more for car speakers, I personally wont use a pioneer amp to run my subwoofers especially if they are hard driven subs like JL , Kicker Solo's and MTX subs. But for now just turn the gains down to 3/4 and that should help u, you can also install a fan to keep your amp cooler, if this never happened before in 5 yrs and now it does then that means your amp is just tired and the inside components are overheating easily, thats common with Pioneer and Sony amps.
ok what type of amp are we talking about, what impedence and voice coils are your subs, and have you checked power, ground, fuses, etc... a quality amplifier kicker, jl, mtx, rockford... etc... should, if set up and wired properly, last you a very long time... I actually had a kicker amp since 96 and it still worked great to the day i gave it to my buddy... That's 11 years old with no issues...
JL W6's will perform well with from 150-600 watts RMS. W7's with from 150-500 watts. Less expensive Alpine Type R's work OK with from 200-500 watts RMS. Either of the brands will sound good. None of them will perform to their full potential with 300 watts RMS. Powering any sub with a 2-channel amp is a compromise. A monoblock is more efficient.
Well, the sad thing is, it can be a number of things. You will have to do a process of elimination. Try replacing the amp first, borrow one off a friend. Second try replacing the subs. If those don't work, read the manual to your deck. Find the audio settings, and check to see if the sub section is "on".
you've spent alot of money on **** by the sounds of it!!. you should only ever run multiple subs the same brand, power and resistance you can just connect any old subs to a system you need to wire them depending on the load that the amp needs to see. first thing is to try the amp/s on a individual sub to check your amps still work once done check the subs 1 by 1.
Sounds like the output transistors on the amp are blown. Were you slammin when it stopped or how did you find out it stopped working. It could be the sub failed then caused the ap to go which is why you get a little something from the JL.
The Class D amps from JL are good down to 1.5ohm. The class A/B amps are good down to 2ohm.
I take it you have (3) 4 ohm subs? Wired in parallel?
Consider looking for an amp that is 1 ohm stable for this load such as audiobahn, or kicker.