Question about Asko Dryers

6 Answers

Runs but does not heat up and does not dry. The service man showed me the reset button. It was tripped for him but does not appear tripped now. We have had this problem intermittently for a year. Every time we think we should call, it starts to dry. Only when it stopped drying consistently, did we call and he reset the cleaned and machine.

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  • BobMurf Oct 11, 2008

    I just checked the dryer again. Now it appears to be heating. So it is an intermittent problem, the worst kind to reproduce.
    So it is getting power, the circuit breaker could not have been tripped, the heater wire must be connected but occasionally it runs but does not heat.
    Asko does have a resettable reset button which I pressed but did not feel any give or click which the service man said I would if that was the problem.

  • BobMurf Oct 11, 2008

    Does a long time to reset mean a week?

    I have cleaned out the hose and the service people also checked the interior of the machine.

    What would cause the machine to work sometimes and not others?

    When it does not dry, it runs all night long.

    Thanks for trying but I do not think we are solved yet. Is there a way I can check the other thermal switch?

    Is there something I can do to test the solution?

    Regards,

    Bob

  • BobMurf Oct 11, 2008

    Should I tell this advice to the service team? I have soldered but am not comfortable trying it on the Asko dryer. I would not even know where to start. Finally, what is a dry solder?

    Actually, are you saying that the dryer will appear to be heating up and then the thermal cutoff will kick in and the dryer will just run all night long because it will sense that the clothes are still wet?

    Thanks for your advice but I am still looking for a solution that I can use or give to the service team.

  • BobMurf Oct 12, 2008

    The Dryer is an Asko 7005, Type TD 70A, Capacity 5.0KG and Serial No. 9621-044693. So it would make sense that it was made in 1996 when we moved and has been used almost daily since. Do you think we have gotten our money out of it and should replace it? When it works, it does a great job.

    Thanks for your input. Let me know if you need more information.

    Regards,

    Bob

  • BobMurf Oct 12, 2008

    FYI I started the dryer and tried to dry a towel which I had run under a faucet to get damp. The dryer seemed to be heating up. When I returned in 10 minutes, the dryer was running but luke warm air was coming out and the drum was also luke warm. Does this help?

    I will try again tonight once the dryer cools down and see if I can get heat.

    Regards,

    Bob

  • BobMurf Oct 12, 2008

    I let it sit for 5 hours after it started to heat then went luke warm. It is heating now but I expect it to be luke warm when I go back in 15 minutes.

    Is this something I can fix or do I need to bring in a technician?

    I am in Boston, MA.

    Regards,

    Bob

  • BobMurf Oct 14, 2008

    I was asked for more information and replied that the Dryer is an ASKO 7005, Type TD 70 A, Capacity 5.0KG and Ser no 9621-044693.
    I have received no answer since and the technician is to arrive Wed. at 2 PM.
    Thank you for any additional guidance.
    Regards, Bob

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Sounds like the tech will solve it forye..

Posted on Oct 14, 2008

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There is a temperture probe in the outgoing air stream that controls the dryer temp by sending a signal to the thermostat control to turn the heating element on and off or the gas, depending on which you have, this is the most common cause of your type of problem. Here is how you change it, the instructions are generic but work for almost any dryer.

GENERAL INSTRUCTION FOR REPLACING A DRYER THERMSTAT

Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you conduct this or any other repair. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel. Your dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate its internal temperature. The cycle selected determines which thermostat is used. The cycling thermostat can be found somewhere in the path of air that is leaving the drum. So, it could be found on the blower wheel housing or inside the venting/exhaust system. Dryer thermostats are usually oval shaped and about an inch and a half in length. Also, there should be two wires leading to each thermostat. Label these wires before you remove them so that you are able to correctly reconnect them later.
The wires to the thermostat are connected using metal slip on connectors. Remove the wires by pulling on the connectors, and not the wires themselves. It may be a good idea to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you.
The thermostat itself is attached to the dryer with two screws. Remove both screws and discard faulty cycling thermostat. Install new thermostat, securing it in place with two screws. Reconnect the two wires, reassemble your clothes dryer, and restore power to the unit. Run your dryer through a cycle to make sure it is working properly

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

  • yadayada
    yadayada Oct 14, 2008

    I will bet the tech wants to change the thermostat.

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It is the heating element circuit which need to be checked, since the problem is intermittent and happen any time, it concludes that its coil after heats breakup the circuit.
Reset Button is not causing this problem, as it is heating and then stops suddenly, or heating low.
Let me know more about the dryer so I can investigate further.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

  • Puneet Jain
    Puneet Jain Oct 15, 2008

    You need to check and if required go to replace for the dryer belt, Thermal cut out, Heating element and sealing.  Let me know if these are required to change and then vote the solution accordingly.

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If this dryer heats sometimes and does not heat sometimes.that means every thing is proper in the dryer.the simple problem is when the inter nal circuit gets heated the unit stops heating.so you have to just open your device and do a dry solder to the dryers circuit and the soldering joints will become firm.and then check it will work.leave it off for some time so to get the board dry after dry solder then on the dryer.it will work.

thanks.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

  • masterexpert Oct 12, 2008

    yes exactly the circuit gets cut off after it gets heated.

    and dry solder is a soldering machine which blows hot air and from that hot air the soldering on the machine gets firm if some where it is loose or becomes loose after getting heated.

    and the repair person will understand what is dry solder.try this.

    feel free for any further queries.

    thanks,

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Could be a problem with the thermal cut off . it is two pieces when you buy them, one is the non resettable type, ( the smaller one ) and the other one is automatically resets itself ( the bigger one ). this could be the problem, it takes a long time to reset.

normally, you replace both of the them.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool




Posted on Oct 11, 2008

  • francis rivero Oct 11, 2008

    you can check it by using a multi meter to check for continuity. check all sensors for continuity. but if it is intermittent, then do the test when it is not heating, other wise you will not find the faulty component.

    open the back cabinet and check all sensors that you will find. you will find about 4 sensors there.

    tnx again, drcool


  • francis rivero Oct 12, 2008

    that would be the best time to test those thermal cutoffs. when it is no longer heating up.



    tnx for the update Bob,



    drcool

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HI,

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:


Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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