We are trying to figure out how to best take care of this pool through the winter. We are trying to take it all apart and it is not really coming apart. If we leave it up through the winter is it going to hold up with the wind snow and rain.
Your best bet is to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a Thermal Tarp. This will make sure that seams and connector parts don't become damaged in harsh weather. Drape the tarp over the top and get some decorative rocks or stones and place them all around the edges of the tarp, as to hold it down and still look nice in the fall and winter seasons.
Hope you liked to advice!
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Remove all drain plugs, open any valve you can and have. split apart any union, and depending on the part of the country you live in, the permafrost is a factor. If you freeze below ground, then you will also need to empty your pool down below the lowest inlet fitting and then blow the water out of the lines.
Once clear of excess water, plug the holes so rain water does not refill them!
heater will have 2-4 drain/winter plugs
also remove the pressure switch
pump will normally have 2 plugs
Open & remove lid from hair & lint pot
Pool sweep booster pump has 1 plug
Any low spots in the plumbing will trap water in them. Drill & tap a hole - 1/4" Normal pipe thread - that is the most common size of a winterizing drain plug. Others may just cut the pipe right at the lowest spot and glue in a union for future winterizing.
<p>Basic Pool Care Tips<br />
<li>Test chlorine and pH at least 3 times per week. Have a comprehensive water test every 6-8 weeks at your local pool store. There is generally no charge for this test.</li>
<li>Operate pool equipment a minimum of 6-8 hours per day during winter months and for 10-12 hours per day during the summer for greatest overall benefit.</li>
<li>Brush the pool walls and floor a minimum of once a week.</li>
<li>To prevent damage to pool equipment make sure the water level never drops below the opening of the skimmer.</li>
<li>Lubricate backwash valve "O" rings on sand and DE filter four times a year. Lubricate pump lid "O" ring periodically with Lube specifically designed for use with swimming pool equipment.<br /><br /><img src="water_1.jpg" /><br /><br /></li>
<li>Test pH and add muriatic acid as indicated to maintain pH between 7.4 - 7.8. Never add more than 1 pint of acid at a time and wait at least 1 hour between treatments. Always add muriatic acid by dispersing into pool water opposite the skimmer and disperse as far away from the wall of the pool as you can safely reach. Use care not to drip acid or any chemicals on deck as it will cause deck etching and staining. Do not pour acid over steps, benches, or pool light. Make sure water is circulating.</li>
<li>Clean waterline tile with cleaner a minimum of once a month during peak season.</li>
<li>One month after initial pool start-up, add stain and scale inhibitor on a regular basis.</li>
<li>Always follow manufacturers instructions on product labels.</li>
<li><b>NEVER ADD WATER TO CHEMICALS</b> - Add chemicals to water.</li>
<li>Always wait one (1) hour between adding different chemicals unless otherwise directed.
<li><b>Sand Filters:</b> Backwash once per week</li>
<li><b>DE Filters:</b> Backwash once filter pressure increases 8-10 psi above your "clean pressure" noted at start-up.</li>
<li><b>Cartridge Filters:</b> Need to be taken apart and elements need to be cleaned once filter pressure increases 8-10 psi above your "clean pressure." This cleaning should be done at least a minimum of twice a year.</li></ul></li></ul></li></ol>
Open the plugs on the bottom front of the pump pot and on the pump housing itself. These two plugs will do the pump and just the pump. You should have simmilar plugs on the filter, heater, chlorinator and any other equiptment on the system.
The best way to remove it is to make sure its not ice cold. It will snap off but be careful and gentle.
You might try either adding a hose or taking one off to prevent the sticking. Also, try changing the hoses from one end to the other.
you can use a clarifyer but most likely you are not filtering enough.
A pool needs turned over At Least 3 times in a filtering cycle. Figure out how many gallons an hour your pump will do and then filter accordingly.
If you have 7000gl and your pump is 2000gph then you should be running you pump 10 1/2 hours a day/night.
If this is the big wall fitting 1-1/2" as opposed to the 3/4" wich I want to think it is. It slips in with a quater turn and fit's on two little pegs one of these is probly broken off so it feels tight as you put it in but the pressure tends to tork it out of the wall. these should come as a package set but are sold seperetly. Replace Both pieces, the wall fitting and the wall adaptor. The wall fitting will give you a hard time comming out and you may need to break it to get it out. Just be careful when doing this so you don't break anything else. Usually a small saw cut on the inside of the wall fitting will help a lot. Good luck.
I have had this issue with several clients and before worrying, you might have had sand being drawn back into pool lines during winterization. this happens when you blow out lines, plug holes, but keeping it pressurized. if it keeps happening check draw fins on bottom of filter.
Are you asking how to drain it? If so some older models come with a drain **** located on the bottom side of the black manifold. It is brass. You can loosen the drain **** and the water will drain out, be careful when tightening the drain **** back up though, they can break easily. You do not have to put much torque on it at all, dont even put a tool on it at first, if it leaks, then tighten it a little more. The newer models come with a brass plug instead of a drain **** and you can remove the brass plug. Or the best way i think is to unhook both unions for the inlet and outlet on the heater, use a shop vac on blow, and blow the water out. But if you are winterizing the pool equipment, the heater is not the only thing that needs to be drained.