Question about Kitchen Ranges
I have looked at the unit and replaced the element and I have noted that there is no TOD (Thermal Overload Device). Also, schematic provided with the unit show no fuses. I traced the wires and it appears that the elements only attached to the Electronic Oven Control. The EOC will cost $135 to replace, and a technician just to come out to see it will cost $130 plus parts so the total bill would be $265.00. Could not get extended warranty because unit is in a rental - and the limited warranty that covers 2-5 years only applies to the ceramic top and its elements. It appears that this is a simple replace of the EOC - but what caused the broiler element to blow - maybe an electrical surge - it so maybe the EOC can be fixed by replacing a blown contact - but that would take working with soldered on units and without any schematics of the EOC. What should I do. I have a degree in Electronics so I now how to be safe and how to use a VOM. Do you have any test point data for these EOC's. This seems like a costly repair and the broiler element already cost about $90.00. So all told the repair of a two year old unit will cost around $225.00 if I do it or $355.00 if a technician is called.
What advice do you have?
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
To find service information for your Maytag Model go tothis link
When on this site, click on Maytag Historical Service Library.
Then click on Maytag Service Library.
Click on term and conditions
Click on Literatur by Model
Enter Modle number MER 6772
You will be able to print or download the service manual for your model
Your problem may be the bake relay on the clock or wiring.
Posted on Feb 09, 2008
I would recommend you check your fuse or breaker box for a blown fuse or tripped breaker. If you are only getting one leg of your 220 volts the you will have the problems you have listed. If you have no breaker or fuse problem you should then check your range cord for possible shorts or hot spots. Then work your way to the terminal block on the range. It definately sounds like you are only getting 110 volts to your range. I hope this will FixYa.
Good luck, Mike
Posted on Sep 24, 2008
Before you replace the range, I'd try replacing the oven temp sensor (part number
WB21T10007 ) which is rather inexpensive. If I were able to get my hands on your range I'd first test to see if the control is sending 240 volts to the bake element. We know there is 240 to the range because the burners and broiler work, but is the control sending the full 240 to the bake element ? The only way for you to know this is to use a meter and test the voltage across the terminals of the bake element when in bake. Of course you should also test the bake element with power off and at least one terminal disconnected to see if you have about 20 ohms resistance across the terminals and no resistance from a terminal to the frame of the range. If not, you may need a new bake element (part number
Let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks for using fixya.
If this helps, a fixya rating would be appreciated. Thanks.
Posted on Nov 08, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 23, 2010 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
Mar 12, 2010 | General Electric Stove/Oven/Range Chrome...
Nov 06, 2009 | Frigidaire FEF316 Electric Kitchen Range
Aug 22, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges
Jun 09, 2009 | Frigidaire 30 in. Electric Gallery Series...
May 28, 2009 | Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range
231 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!