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I have looked at the unit and replaced the element and I have noted that there is no TOD (Thermal Overload Device). Also, schematic provided with the unit show no fuses. I traced the wires and it appears that the elements only attached to the Electronic Oven Control. The EOC will cost $135 to replace, and a technician just to come out to see it will cost $130 plus parts so the total bill would be $265.00. Could not get extended warranty because unit is in a rental - and the limited warranty that covers 2-5 years only applies to the ceramic top and its elements. It appears that this is a simple replace of the EOC - but what caused the broiler element to blow - maybe an electrical surge - it so maybe the EOC can be fixed by replacing a blown contact - but that would take working with soldered on units and without any schematics of the EOC. What should I do. I have a degree in Electronics so I now how to be safe and how to use a VOM. Do you have any test point data for these EOC's. This seems like a costly repair and the broiler element already cost about $90.00. So all told the repair of a two year old unit will cost around $225.00 if I do it or $355.00 if a technician is called.

What advice do you have?

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag MER6772 - Oven bake element not working even after replacing it.

To find service information for your Maytag Model go tothis link
When on this site, click on Maytag Historical Service Library.
Then click on Maytag Service Library.
Click on term and conditions
Click on Literatur by Model
Enter Modle number MER 6772
Clck go
You will be able to print or download the service manual for your model

Your problem may be the bake relay on the clock or wiring.

Posted on Feb 09, 2008

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Gallery Series

the control is bad and will have to be replaced, nothing need to happen for the eoc to fail i see them fail new out of the box

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

SOURCE: JBP66G W1AD Oven won't get hot enough

the yellow may be the oven temp sensor?

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

  • 172 Answers

SOURCE: Amana electric range - light but no heat

Hi rablef,
I would recommend you check your fuse or breaker box for a blown fuse or tripped breaker. If you are only getting one leg of your 220 volts the you will have the problems you have listed. If you have no breaker or fuse problem you should then check your range cord for possible shorts or hot spots. Then work your way to the terminal block on the range. It definately sounds like you are only getting 110 volts to your range. I hope this will FixYa.
Good luck, Mike

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: Re: GE Electric Range JBP67BD1WH Baking Element Problem

Before you replace the range, I'd try replacing the oven temp sensor (part number WB21T10007 ) which is rather inexpensive. If I were able to get my hands on your range I'd first test to see if the control is sending 240 volts to the bake element. We know there is 240 to the range because the burners and broiler work, but is the control sending the full 240 to the bake element ? The only way for you to know this is to use a meter and test the voltage across the terminals of the bake element when in bake. Of course you should also test the bake element with power off and at least one terminal disconnected to see if you have about 20 ohms resistance across the terminals and no resistance from a terminal to the frame of the range. If not, you may need a new bake element (part number
WB44T10010 )
Let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks for using fixya.
If this helps, a fixya rating would be appreciated. Thanks.

Posted on Nov 08, 2008

SOURCE: GE JBP30 oven bottom element not working after being replaced

I would be looking at the bake relay on teh coven control board. Using a voltage meter test the output voltage when energizing the bake feature. Be sure to remove the bake element wire coming from the bake element to the control. Test this terminal without the bake element wire attached. From the terminal with one meter probe to the neutral on the terminal block (where your cord attaches to), you should read 110 volts when energized and 0 voltge when shut off. What are you reading? If I can help further, I am here.....

Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

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