I am a college student and currently learning on how a cast iron gate valve works i need diagrams to print off for my portfolio and to learn how to take one apart and how to maintain a gate valve i would be greatful for any information thanks
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Re: need to find information on gate valves
Hi robert garet,
I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.
Your problem is: You are a college student and currently learning on how a cast iron gate valve works you need diagrams to print off for my portfolio and to learn how to take one apart and how to maintain a gate valve you would be greatful for any information thanks
For small valves, it's just a mater of unscrewing the bonnet (top part with handle), with larger valves, you remove the bolts around the bonnet. Always turn off the pressure in the line before maintenance. If there's a leak where the shaft comes out of the bonnet then you need to replace the packing material inside the bonnet. This is usually a good time to put some apropriate lubricant on the threads at the botom of the shaft. That's about it from a practical point. I don't happen to have any pictures but you can take them yourself at any plumbing supply or they might let you fotocopy the expanded pictures in their parts book. They're usually happy to oblige.
Feel free contact me again! Please give me a rating here at fixya before you sign off Thank you, Harvey your Master Plumber
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I am having the same issue with their 5 way diverter valve #2228-0. I've disassembled and removed the mixing valve and it seems to be in order but after a minute or so it goes luke warm. I've cleaned the assembly with CLR and it helped some but I still can't find the problem. All other fixtures in the bathroom are in good working order. I'm headed to the plumbing supply house next week and will let you know if they have any ideas.
Sounds like a dropped gate valve. meaning the part that blocks the water flow has broken from the valve stem and handle. You will need to turn off the supply to your main, usually a curb box outside to remove and replace the gate. I would suggest replacing the gate valve with an appropriate ball valve to avoid this happening in the future.
Close the hot and cold water valves in the cabinet beneath the sink to shut the water supply off to the bath faucet.
Remove the bath faucet's handle to access the valve cartridge. The faucet handle is removed by first detaching the handle's insert cap using the tip of a screwdriver or utility knife to expose the handle screw. Remove the handle screw with a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the handle off the valve cartridge stem.
Loosen and remove the cartridge valve nut with an adjustable wrench. Some faucet models retain the valve cartridge with a snap ring and are removed with snap ring pliers.
Pull the old valve cartridge out of the bath faucet base, using pliers.
Insert the new replacement valve cartridge into the faucet housing and replace the nut or snap ring removed in Step 3, using an adjustable wrench or snap ring pliers.
Reinstall the faucet's handle onto the valve cartridge post, then secure the handle's screw, using a screwdriver.
Replace the insert cap into the handle to cover the handle's screw hole.
Turn on the hot and cold water valves beneath the sink to restore the water supply.
ALL BASKET STRAINERS ARE PRETTY MUCH THE SAME. PLUMBERS PUTTY WORKS FINE. I BELIEVE ITS THE ORDER OF INSTALL THAT IS CAUSING THE LEAKS. STRAINER AND RUBBER GASKET GOES IN FROM THE TOP. IF NO RUBBER GASKET IS PROVIDED, THEN PLUMBERS PUTTY WILL SUFFICE. UNDERNEATH, ANOTHER RUBBER GASKET AND/OR PAPER GASKET, THEN THREAD ON THE NUT. TIGHTEN IT SNUGLY.