Question about MTX Car Speakers & Subwoofers

2 Answers

All right I'm having EXTREME problems with my car stereo. Not only have I talked to several car stereo advisers, and also mtx advisers I have also talked to Crutchfield advisors and no one has solved my problems nor explained in depth the reasons. So I'm emailing you as a last HOPE! Please help me in solving this. Ok the situation... I have the stock 07 Hyundai Tiburon; from the battery I ran one gauge wire to a 200-amp fuse. Then directly to my MTX Thunder 7801 amp, “400 Watts rms x 1 Channel @ 4 Ohms, 800 Watts rms x 1 Channel @ 2 Ohms, 1200 Watts rms x 1 Channel @ 1 Ohm”, which I purchased form Cruthchfield, which then the amp is hooked to a 15"inch Mofo Power Acoustik - Dual 2 ohm voice coil, 2600 watts peak, 1400rms. (With a 1 farad Rockford capacitor extended of the amp) So my problem then comes to when I play music, do remember everything has been thoroughly checked over several times, every connection is correct, as the music is playing my amp plays to what is thought to be normal tone, but the fuse in the amp soon blows! Thinking something is wrong I check the malignance lights nothing is wrong internally, no shorts nothing. I also had it sent in to MTX to be checked and it was sent back with a stamp of approval. No matter what kind of sub, or even the wiring of the sub, such as lowering and highering the ohms, it has been hook up every way imaginable, the fuse in the amp still blows after a couple minutes of music. The amp should and was recommended handling this sub. So over or under powering problems should not be a reason. My last resort would be the alternator in my car, from my research I have came up with the conclusion that the 07 Hyundai Tiburon some stock with a 90 amp alternator "low yes" but still should be able to drive the amp...??? Would that be the cause of my fuses constantly blowing? Another question is, I recently found out that the shell of my amp is charged with a (positive) charge, "No clue to how much positive current is running threw it," but it still has a positive charge, could that be a reason? PLEASE AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME, PLEASE EMAIL ME BACK WITH YOURS AND OTHERS OPINIONS. ryangivler@yahoo.com

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  • ryangivler Oct 11, 2008

    it will take a week or so before im able to get back 2 u with the pictures, but no it will not blow any fuses at a low volume, its when it give it volume say normal volume, not extremely loud cause that just makes it blow quicker, but at a normal volume after a couples secounds of playing it some blow. Someone also told me to make sure that the positive wire wasnt touching the chassis, but the wire into the amp is wrapped in electrical tape with a hole cut so the wire connects to the input......?



    as no one can find an answer, im sadely coming to the conclusion that MTX sold me a **** AMP and now will never replace or fix it. i have returned it and they return it back to say "oh its fine" THEN Y THE **** DONT IT WORK" im starting to get bad remarks to mtx.

  • Inno Laur May 11, 2010

    So from a good source of ground (car chassis) to the outer cover on the amp you have 12V pos ? That is most definitely not good. Without actually seeing it it's really hard to figure out what's wrong. Could you possibly post some pictures of the connections at the amp, the fuse at the battery (where the 1 gauge wire connects) and your ground from the amp to the vehicle chassis?

    Do you have to crank it up before the fuse blows or does it still blow at a lower volume level?


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Larger wire to amp should fix that pulling too much juice and heating filament up blowing it

Posted on Apr 11, 2013

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Don't give up yet, I'm sure we can find an answer. With car audio, as with any do it yourself project there may be just some small thing you are missing.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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